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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I'm new to the forum
I have a 1974 GTV 2000 that has been restored and runs well.
After several days off sitting it is very hard to start and takes a fair bit of cranking to fire.
I assume it is a lack of fuel from the mechanical fuel pump.
A mechanic has suggested a low pressure 4psi fuel pump located just at the exit of the fuel tank to get the fuel to the carbs. Has anyone experienced similar problems?
Cheers Mike
 

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They all do that to a certain extent, starting after a winter layup is a 10 minute session with a battery booster! Just a question if yours is excessive. If in doubt fit the extra fuel pump and clean out the filter / fuel lines.

But if it just takes half a dozen churns on the starter motor and lots of throttle pumping to get the accelerator pumps squirting raw fuel into the chokes to fire, then that's been pretty standard for me for the past 25 years.

Some debate over whether Choke helps. Consensus seems to be not if you are running webers, possibly with dellorto's.
 

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Mike - welcome to the AO -
Mine will start after a couple of goes if its been sat around for a week or so but it doesnt take excessive churning: Recommended method of starting with Dellortos and Webers is couple of pumps on the throttle then light touch while cranking - then feathering until she'll tickover - never use the choke, in fact my choke cable isnt connected and i've never missed it. They all vary so yours might need a few more pumps or a bit more throttle - if she's running fine otherwise I would say its just down to technique
 

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I'd definitely clean (in a bowl of fresh petrol) or replace the small filter in the regulator assy. before condemming the pump.
AR recommended this every 8k miles.

I must say I never had a problem with my weber carbed 101 sprint and mech. fuel pump, neither cold nor hot nor after a longer period of non use.

My start method was to slowly press throttle fully to the floor say 2 or 3 times (not pumping it wildly), then, crank the engine and at the same time squeezing the throttle slightly (rather like Joe90GT's method).
I don't recall ever using choke to start (I sometimes used choke on a freezing day just to pull away easier, then turned it off after a few minutes)

you can easily check the mech. fuel pump by removing the fuel line at the carb and cranking the engine.....there should be a steady flow of fuel.

sometimes it is a timing/ignition problem, so this needs to be determined B4 condemming pump, carbs etc.
 

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Welcome to the forum Mike.
I am running a 2000 engine on Dellortos and it can be a bugger to start if she hasn't been started for a week or so.
Pumping the accelerator 4/5 times is a necessity if you aren't using the choke. I don't like using the choke, don't know why, but it does help start if she has been standing.
The other factor that definitely helps is that I keep my car on trickle charge; so the battery is always at peak power and this does aid starting.
 

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I have tried almost everything bar the electric pump route to cure this. New pump, pipes, regulator/filter and I even fitted a non-return valve but I get the same symptoms. Oddly enough when I first bought the car I didn't so there must be some reason. Things to look for are old fuel pipes or new pipes with the wrong clips (small jubilees don't clamp evenly). I seem to be the only person who needs the choke to start - not a hope without it (dellortos). My previous alfasuds (dellortos and webers) never needed a choke though.
 

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You're not alone Harry, I like a bit of choke too.

I think this is just one of those things, like Harry, on the Spider I tried to improve the starting and have changed the rubber fuel lines, filter, cleaned and set up carbs, checked pump, changed leads, plugs, coil, electronic points and tried numerous starting methods etc etc but no improvement at all but the Super has the same Weber set up, hasn't had anything done to it at all but it starts first time every time!

I'd just live with it.
 

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I have 2 cars on Dellorto's One needs choke, the other is happy without. My old spider needed choke too. But definitely use the push throttle slowish to floor a few times technique to get the fuel in the chokes.
 

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You're not alone Harry, I like a bit of choke too.

I think this is just one of those things, like Harry, on the Spider I tried to improve the starting and have changed the rubber fuel lines, filter, cleaned and set up carbs, checked pump, changed leads, plugs, coil, electronic points and tried numerous starting methods etc etc but no improvement at all but the Super has the same Weber set up, hasn't had anything done to it at all but it starts first time every time!

I'd just live with it.
Bit like me and my bleeding lumpy idle ... i give up
 

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45 Dellorto's on mine. Not used the choke for 20 years, in fact the last time I tried it snapped. Never bothered replacing it.
8 pumps on the throttle, don't touch again until it fires, then feather until it revs ok. If it has been more than a couple of weeks might take a few goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks all for you replies and suggestions!
Its a new battery and I have it on a trickle charger.
I'll try all the methods and see how I go :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Another question now that I have some experts online.
I took the car away at the weekend for a 800 km road trip.
I found the steering heavy and or stiff. It has 195/70 x 14" at 32 psi
The steering does not center itself particularly well after a bend (feels stiff)
I have an up-rated springs, sway-bar and shocks which all perform well.
I have jacked the front end up and turned from side to side and it does still fell a little stiff with no weight on the wheels. Could it be binding in the steering box or??
 

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Sounds like the box -you see the bottom of the steering box when you jack it up - get someone to turn the steering while your underneath to see if there is any play in the shaft, could just need filling with oil or need adjustment - there are people here who know more about the adjustment than I - if you put oil in i think you will find it will probably all leak out which means the box or seals are worn - the tyres are a bit fat but you should only notice heaviness when parking or at very slow speed - once moving it should be sublime. A get round is to use grease in the box if the seals have gone but that's short term really - check the ball joints and idler box as well
 

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Another question now that I have some experts online.
I took the car away at the weekend for a 800 km road trip.
I found the steering heavy and or stiff. It has 195/70 x 14" at 32 psi
The steering does not center itself particularly well after a bend (feels stiff)
I have an up-rated springs, sway-bar and shocks which all perform well.
I have jacked the front end up and turned from side to side and it does still fell a little stiff with no weight on the wheels. Could it be binding in the steering box or??
Before you spend out on steering box, check it is lubricated well and also check the ball joints. I spent out on 3 steering box changes before realising it was my ball joints which were partially seizing when the underbonnet temperature got up.
 

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Your carbs may be leaking the fuel out while is was standing idle. My Spider with Webers only need "priming" after about 5 months winter lay up.
I prime them as I remove the plugs and drips some oil in the cylinders and then turn the engine over to pump the oil round in the engine in two 10 sec rounds. I fit the plugs and spray some diesel start help into the air filter. Then it start in a few tries.
 

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Your carbs may be leaking the fuel out while is was standing idle. My Spider with Webers only need "priming" after about 5 months winter lay up.
I prime them as I remove the plugs and drips some oil in the cylinders and then turn the engine over to pump the oil round in the engine in two 10 sec rounds. I fit the plugs and spray some diesel start help into the air filter. Then it start in a few tries.
Good point i'll check that out.
 

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Hi there,

I am new to this forum - so firstly hello!!

I have the same problem with my twin Weber 40’s on my Nord 2.0. Mine often requires easy start to get going. Once going it is fine - even if I leave it for a couple of days. I have tuned my carbs, checked strength of spark and checked the fuel
lines already. My plan of action is:
1) check for general fuel leaks (again!!) and filters (carb and fuel line) are clear (they are)
2) I suspect that the non-return valve in the fuel pump is leaking over time causing the fuel to drain down and It then takes a lot of cranking to get fuel to the carbs again. So I will probably swap my fuel pump out.
3) final option is to fit a hi torque starter motor in case I am entering a cycle whereby by the time the fuel is at the carbs, the starter is drawing down on the battery and reducing the spark - I.e. at the start, good spark and crank but no fuel, after significant cranking, there is fuel but weaker cranking and spark...

I hope this is of interest.
 

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So it's taken about 2years but I think I've cracked starting. Clutch in,turn over few times to get oil pressure up, no choke, (Webers) press throttle 3-4 times, then feather throttle while turning over.
 
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