[ransoman]

Morning all.

Yesterday I started my 2nd clutch replacement. Got from full assembled to fully disassembled in a little over 6 hours so quite chuffed.

Couple of questions related to some things I found:

The gearbox oil when drained had a metallic sheen to it and was very silvery. The oil in it has only done 75 miles and was replaced when I installed the quaiffe when I did the previous clutch job. Is this normal? My thoughts are it is new bearings from the quaife bedding in. Would it be worth replacing the oil again? I don't know what oil is in it but it came with the Diff from Dan at Autolusso.

The clutch fork/arm has about 3/4 of an inch of vertical travel. Is this normal? I cannot find any evidence of a missing circlip or retaining ring so I doubt there is anything missing.

Oh and finally. I am really tempted to leave the 3rd starter motor bolt off. Would it do any harm long term? It is no easier to remove the 2nd time round!

 

[ransoman]

Forgot to mention. During the 70 miles the clutch lasted, I noticed the drivetrain was louder than normal. Hard to describe the noise but a low roaring. I had assumed that this is because I didn't use enough CV grease when I rebuilt one of the CV joints. Or that I was so used to driving the land rover with its massive tyres that it was the noise of the tyres.

The preload of the diff was measured and set correctly with the shim and the diff itself wasn't making any noises when used. The old gearbox oil was clear and red.

 

[Autolusso]

Morning all.

Yesterday I started my 2nd clutch replacement. Got from full assembled to fully disassembled in a little over 6 hours so quite chuffed.

Couple of questions related to some things I found:

The gearbox oil when drained had a metallic sheen to it and was very silvery. The oil in it has only done 75 miles and was replaced when I installed the quaiffe when I did the previous clutch job. Is this normal? My thoughts are it is new bearings from the quaife bedding in. Would it be worth replacing the oil again? I don't know what oil is in it but it came with the Diff from Dan at Autolusso.

The clutch fork/arm has about 3/4 of an inch of vertical travel. Is this normal? I cannot find any evidence of a missing circlip or retaining ring so I doubt there is anything missing.

Oh and finally. I am really tempted to leave the 3rd starter motor bolt off. Would it do any harm long term? It is no easier to remove the 2nd time round!

We always use new oil when doing a clutch or fit a diff, the metal in the box does not sound good, refill it with new and check it in a couple of thousand miles

Don't worry about the fork they always do that

Put the top starter bolt back in don't be lazy :biglaugh::biglaugh:

Ned

 

[ransoman]

Thanks Ned,

Replacement clutch arrived friday night. many thanks for that.

Once the skin has grown back on my knuckles I will put the bolt back in then.

Thanks!

 

[jorritkooistra]

Dont out that starter bolt back in. Ive seen it plenty times before. It will survive without and makes life easier. Its not being lazy. Its a modification.

Sent from my Agora 4G using Tapatalk

 

[Autolusso]

Dont out that starter bolt back in. Ive seen it plenty times before. It will survive without and makes life easier. Its not being lazy. Its a modification.

Sent from my Agora 4G using Tapatalk

DIY leave it out, professional refit it, all depends on perspective

It is kind of a signature of ours to always refit

Ned

 

[115686]

Kittens will die if you leave the starter bolt out!

I refitted mine on the 2.5, once you have the tool made up, it only takes 10 minutes each way. My 137K mile 156 project had the bolt missing (and was done at a garage), but presumably had covered about 70K miles with no ill effect. Haven't needed to check the GTA and the GT.

 

[ransoman]

Back into the oil for a moment, it looks to me like the difference bearings outer race may have spun slightly in th casing. There are some light marks in the bearings seats.

It was assembled with the correct preload and torque values so not sure how this is possible. Should I use a bearing race locking fluid when I reassemble?

The technique I used was to hold the lot together loosely, then use the drive shaft seals to align everything.

 

[ransoman]

Some pics to show what I mean. Note the sediment in the oil on the diff casing cover.

I have temporarily re-assembled the diff into the casing being extra carefull to make sure everything is perfectly aligned. The bearing races are pretty solid in their mounts so I can't see how they would move. they are showing no wear at all. I am reluctant to use bearing fit fluid as it would interfere with the oil feed to the bearings.

Also, the bearing seats on the cover shows a few gouges in the face, I have no Idea what caused these and can't remember if they were there before. somebody has been here before me though.