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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I don't think I am in the clear regarding my clutch yet. So I am on my 2nd new clutch after the 1st one failed within 70 miles and this one has now done 250 miles and no sign of failure yet.

Compared to new clutch number 1, number 2 seems to drag slightly when engaging 1st gear and judders very slightly doing 1st/reverse gear parking manauvers but that is all.

My current problem though is that the resistance of the pedal is not consistant at all. Sometime the pedal is extremely light (too light) and sometimes it has a normal weight to it (not heavy). Thinking about it, it was like that on the very first clutch but it was just varying degree's of heavy. This makes it very hard to drive smoothly as I cannot predict how much pressure I will need on the pedal.

These last 2 mornings though the first 3rd-half the pedal travel had no resistance at all and no effect on the clutch, it was a total dead zone and my bit point seemed lower. I could still engage gears but there was a bit of a jerk as the car went past biting point each time. Both days it got better as the car warmed up and was back to normal by the end of the journey.

Both Hydraulic cylinders are new, as is the gearbox input seal. I am thinking I might have some air in the system. I also still have the hydraulic damper fitted to the fluid line. Is this known to cause problems? Any advice offered would be appreciated :)

Cheers,
 

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I find bleeding v6 clutch a bit tricky. Try bleeding it again but instead of pumping the pedal all the way, push it by hand (while bleeder is opened) about 1cm down and back up about 10 times. Of course, you'll need to have bleeding equip attached to the bleeder so it doesn't pull the air back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Moth3. I will give that a try. I am going to delete the clutch damper too as having done some reading, these can cause problems, difficulty bleeding and a bad feeling pedal.
 

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Small update. I didn't have enough Brake pipe unions to completely delete the damper so It is still in at the moment. What I did do though was Bleed the clutch and managed to get some air out again.

Massive improvement, The pedal is much more consistent again and I feel a lot more confident with it. It still isn't perfect though so I will delete the damper when I have all the bits I need.

For anyone considering the damper delete, you need a Female brake pipe union. Approx 2x 30cm lenghts of copper pipe, 2x male unions and a 20cm length of flexible brake pipe (Can be braided steel or rubber) with 2x female ends. One length of copper pipe replaces the hard line going into the slave and goes round the front of the gearbox, then the flexible line goes in, then the final bit of copper goes to union that was threaded into the damper.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I spoke too soon. 4 days of relative normality and some air has moved in the system and I have a floppy pedal again. I am convinced the damper has some air trapped inside that is being released very slowly when stood. It goes away as i drive so maybe it is being put "Back into" the damper as I use the clutch.
 

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It goes away as i drive so maybe it is being put "Back into" the damper as I use the clutch.
The damper is the "local" highest point in that part of the pipe, so you might have a point... AFAIK To get that out would need a proper vacuum suck on the slave bleed side.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I took the damper out at the weekend and with it off the car I could see the damper was full of air. There is also a pinhole on the underside so this could be where the air is getting in.

The parts for the delete are all made up which I will post later with some pics. Can't comment if it has worked yet though as I am in the middle of doing the timing belt so the car is undrivable at the mo.
 
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