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Discussion Starter #21
I get that but a sensible thing to do would be cutting the old wire and isolating it right? I'll try to redo it.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
So I redid the solder, which didn't help, I also polished the connectors on lambda sensors. One of them is now reading some better values, the other one is pretty much the same as you can see on this graph which shows the previous readings aswell. Didn't help tho
936327
 

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Ok, so(and please feel free to add or remove from this list
You have swapped over plugs- cyl3 fault

You swapped over coils- cyl3 fault

You have looked at connections/wiring to the best of your ability and soldered same-cyl3 fault

You have cleaned connectors/sensors- cyl3 fault

This has not been in vain as the fault is at least a 'constant'

What else is there?

Would a malfunctioning sensor only ever be so particular and only give that cyl fault. I'm not sure about this thought but maybe someone can pitch in.

After all of the above, are the injectors the only remaining thing that can be the issue?
I know that it's a PITA but you may have to go there....at some point anyway
 

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I know injector cleaner instructions are 1btl per full tank but theres loads of posts on the forum suggesting 20litres of Vpower and the full btl...and a good thrashing, may help.
I cant remember off hand if youve given that a go yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I have tried running two tanks of omv premium fuel with injector cleaner and then 3 tanks with petrol aditives. Didn't help. I'll try to take the car to a Bosch service center to test the lambda sensors and if they're ok I'll have to dismantle the injector I guess. Still don't know why sometimes it's ok and sometimes it's not. Doesn't seem like a faulty injector to me..
 

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Discussion Starter #27
And yes, all the things on your list are correct, I have also tried several fuel brands, aditives, cleaners and driving with MAF and lambdas disconnected. Nothing seems to make any diference.
 

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No, I guess it doesnt seems like an injector issue. I'm reading your original post to refresh my memory.
When the car "rights itself" and by that I mean heats up to the point where these symptoms disappear, is it ok ALL the time until turned off again? Can you rev it in all gears smoothly and it seems faultless at this point?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I can rev it all the way into the limiter, I think it lacks power but that may be due to my variator solenoid being faulty. When the symptoms clear it still seems to hesitate in low rpm when when pulling out on the lights for example. Seems like lack of power to me but no matter how much Gas i give it it doesn't pull out any better as if the car was choking. On the other Hand when I drive above 3000 rpm the car seems to pull well and the engine light stops blinking. Then when I slow down it behaves well even in lower rpm for some time. And a bit of an update: It's pretty warm out here in the mornings so the car running on 3 cylinders pretty much dissapeared but now it's driving on something I would call 3.5 cylinders almost all the time. Except when I rev it and when the engine starts behaving for some reason but that's kinda rare. This is Getting even more complicated than before...
 

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This a bit simplistic but due to the symptoms being worse in cold, damp conditions, could it just be a bad earth somewhere?
Theres loads of info on the forum re this, and in particular to the ecu faults it can thrown up.
After all the hours you've put in, this would be the easiest of all the fixes......
 

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Discussion Starter #33
The weird thing is that air temperature graph shows normal readings from 40-50掳 every log of this fault shows this weird Venus **** 馃槄
 

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Given that the ECU records battery voltage as very low (13.1v) is does point to a poor terminal or earth somewhere. I'd use a multimeter at the battery to see what the difference is. Once again, it looks like the place to begin is the main earth at the inner wing as well as engine earths then move onto main relays and connections for good positive supply. Once the recorded battery voltage is higher, then you can start looking at this fault again but I think that ignoring the voltage will turn this into a tail chasing exercise.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
The car idling jumps around 13,8 volts. I have no idea how it dropped to 13,1 while driving..
 

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Discussion Starter #38
So I bought STP injector cleaner and put it in 20ish liters of petrol then I took it on highway and tried to rev it as much as I could driving 160-200 kmph. Then I took it into a city and it drove like new. I'll see tomorow if it's better
 

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Well, looks promising for the time being at least. Maybe it was a minuscule bit of something in the injectors causing your issues. I would still clean the earth points. Theres a thread on here somewhere and a kit available consisting of updated cables that do a better job of earthing the car
The JTS is famously fussy in its parameters and the smallest deviation can make it throw a wobble.
Good luck, I hope its sorted it 馃憤
 

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After doing all the cleaning necessary on the TS and JTS I found battery voltage jump up to 14.2 or 14.3 for TS and JTS and there to be no difference in what is read via the diagnostic port.
 
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