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Hi,
My 3 week old 2004 GT just died after blowing a radiator hose, now it seems like theres no compression in the engine at all, like a broken cam belt.

The question is, does this car generate a safe mode if the engine overheats to prevent restarting? If so how do I fix it again? Im in a rural town, there's no ***** dealers for 1200 Km's.

Destined for the junk yard I think,

Thanks
Jax
 

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Where in the world are you - looks like NZ? Assume it's a 3.2 V6?

There is no "safe mode" or similar. If you're concerned about the cambelt then unbolt the cover and have a look - only a few minutes work. How hot did it get before you stopped - overheat warning light on? Messages on the dash? Or did you get lots of steam and shut it down?
 

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ha, good call, it is New Zealand, in those mountains south of Nelson towards Blenheim, night time, broke down in a storm of course and had to sleep in the forest the road was so dangerous with trucks likely to hit the car where it was stuck on a corner.

It was driving normally, all fluids checked, I noticed the temp gauge beginning to go above normal to the 3/4 mark and within 15-20 seconds the car abruptly :paranoid:stopped with that hot pinking/mechanical clattering sound. Burst a hose or radiator holding tank. Now when I crank the starter it spins as though the engine has no compression. Theres no sign of any attempt at it firing on any cylinder.

Its a humble 4 cylinder, not the twin spark either, nice motor to drive with though.

Thanks for the tip, I'll check it.
 

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Ah, so it's a JTS. If I was guessing, I'd say the water pump has failed and as that's driven by the cam belt, it's taken out the cam belt at the same time. Hope not though. You need to pull the top cam belt cover back enough to see inside.
 

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Ah, so it's a JTS. If I was guessing, I'd say the water pump has failed and as that's driven by the cam belt, it's taken out the cam belt at the same time. Hope not though. You need to pull the top cam belt cover back enough to see inside.
Hmm, most interesting, the cam belt is in place and rotates as it should when the starter is engaged.
The cooling system has one of those plastic molded collector boxes along the block and above the exhaust manifold, its split all along its front seam and holds no coolant, it just pours through.
No explanation for the lack of resistance to the starter motor, tomorrow I'll see if I can get a look inside a cylinder or get a compression gauge.
 

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Hmm, most interesting, the cam belt is in place and rotates as it should when the starter is engaged.
The cooling system has one of those plastic molded collector boxes along the block and above the exhaust manifold, its split all along its front seam and holds no coolant, it just pours through.
No explanation for the lack of resistance to the starter motor, tomorrow I'll see if I can get a look inside a cylinder or get a compression gauge.
interesting question, we've confirmed ignition spark but ... the coolant was high dosed with some of that copper powder based leak suppressant and we're wondering if a flood of that coolant coming out at speed and under pressure, while under that plastic lid on top of the motor might have penetrated electrical connections or temperature sensors and be currently stopping the car from starting.
 

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well if you have confirmed spark then you are down to either compression, fueling, or electrical...I can't imagine even a JTS would destroy itself in the short time you describe...so I am ruling out compression.

have you read the codes? that is the next obvious course of action..easy and cheap to do...elm 327 and a copy of multiscan.

there is no point in proceeding without the codes as you will get into the expensive territory of throwing parts at it until you find the right one..and I very much doubt your fuel pump or injectors have magically failed at the same time you experience an overheat ,so I am going to go electrical, does it crank but not start?

if so immobiliser would be my first port of call followed by Crank or camshaft sensor.


I don't think the car is ''dead'' but it may take some perseverance to track the issue down.


good luck:thumbup:
 

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The cooling system has one of those plastic moulded collector boxes along the block and above the exhaust manifold, its split all along its front seam and holds no coolant, it just pours through.
... the coolant was high dosed with some of that copper powder based leak suppressant...
So the coolant manifold has failed (been quite a few of those fail on here) and there is also signs of an underlying leak with some kind of Radweld like substance in there.

If it is spinning over too easily then that does point to no compression, especially as the JTS has a higher compression than the TS.
 
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My guess: the head gasket was already leaking, hence the leak suppressant (and sale of the car!), which has now failed and the excess pressure from the blown gasket has split the front manifold. Result: not much compression. Look for water in oil, oil in water or water in combustion chambers as confirmation. A compression test should nail it. Fix: replace head gasket, flush crap out of cooling system.
 

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The coolant manifold failing could be the problem, or it could just be a symptom, caused by the engine overheating (failed water pump, head gasket, etc). Given it won't start, and you say it turns over fast with little resistance on the starter, then you really need to do a compression test. I guess it's possible the water pump seized enough to make the cam belt jump some teeth (but not fail totally) and now when you check it looks ok, but that's unlikely.

I replaced that coolant manifold on my JTS last year and it a bit of a pain because you have to remove the a/c compressor and it's mount to get at it, so its about 4 hrs plus $300ish (+ GST) for the manifold itself.
 

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I'd guess that some teeth are missing off the cam belt, the timing has jumped and there is just enough grip left to make the belt turn as you try and start the engine.
 
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