[Chris_C2000]

Ok so I get the usual.. 'Why did you buy an alfa.. they always break' from my mates, I can live with that, Its not true and I know it

But.. My car does not help.. there's a couple of things I really need to fix so that people cant point at them and go.. See.. Told you so!


1). Drivers Door. Up till about a week ago it didnt always close properly, usually when it catches my knee or something, and will only open if you open the window and open it from the outside. More recently it's been doing it when the door IS closed properly (door open indicator on the dash is not on and interior light is off). Any ideas? The handle is not quite right (dont know if it's connected to the problem) it's not flush to the door, it settles slightly in the open position (bout 1cm or so)

2). Boot
Only closes properly if you close it once, it bounces back open and then close it again. Happens about 90% of the time with the other 10% it closes properly.

3). Alarm/Central Locking
The alarm has always been turned off but just recently (last 2 days) it locks from the fob. But then a few seconds later the hazard lights start flashing away. Sometimes pressing the second button on the fob (what IS that for) stops it, sometimes not and I have to lock it with the key. Doors are all shut + boot etc.

Cheers,
Chris

 

[.:ian:.]

Door issue is probably the bowden cable in the door, connecting the inside handle to the mechanishm. Search this site for bowden, loads of threads about it.

I had the same boot issue, it wouldnt latch shut at all when I bought it! If you take the carpet section around the latch (in the boot, not on the lid) there are nuts to adjust the position up and down. Also the temptation is to slam it, but I found that just made it bounce back, a gentle shove is all it needs

No idea about the alarm, but what fobs do you have? Might help someone else answer.

 

[zulu ferret]

1.Worn hinge pins allowing door drop and by so doing they do not align properly with the striker mechanism/lock? Open the door and holding the lower corner of the door under the door handle forcibly try lifting the door to establish wear on the hinges/pins?
2.Lock and 'U' shaped engager need adjusting.
3.???. Over to the electronic wizards?

 

[pkr]

Two things to adjust on the boot.

At each corner of the lid is a rubber stop. You use these to adjust the shut lines so the boot lid is in line with the top of the rear wings. They screw in and out - so you just need to turn them. Use some washing up liquid to lubricate the rubber to allow them to turn.

Then, as Ian said, you slacken two nuts behind the carpet ( near the boot light ) to adjust the lock up an down. Use a combination of these two methods to get an easy and reliably closed boot with good shut lines.

 

[Nige005]

What Ian said.

No idea about the Alarm. Thankfully this had been removed before I bought the Car !

 

[pkr]

Alarm : If you have the Scorpion 918U alarm ( black rectangular fob, lump on the back for the battery, switch on the side and two square buttons at one end - one domed and one recessed ), the second button is the panic button.

I think Stixy posted the instuction leaflet for the 918U some time back.

Door : Does the door clash with the striker when it shuts or does it shut cleanly. If it clashes with the striker, you adjust the striker with a Torx driver. Loosen, the Torx screw, move the striker a bit. Re-tighten, test and adjust more if necessary. Tip : draw round the striker before you start with a pencil or similar. It allows you to start again if it all goes horribly wrong :lol:

If/once the door closes cleanly, look at the panel gaps and closure lines. The front and back of the door should align with the front wing/rear wings cleanly top to bottom. Look at the swage line - does it line up front & back with the wings? You should have, if I recall correctly, about 5mm gap between the door and wings.

Finally, think very carefully before adjusting the door hinges. It will mean adjusting the window afterwards. And if you move the top door hinge, that'll involve adjusting the bonnet as well.

 

[Chris_C2000]

Cheers guys I'll have a look at those once it stops raining

Knowing the right word to search for really helps (Bowden cable or 918U ) changes several thousand search results down to a few (well sometimes a few hundred.. but it's better!)

 

[Chris_C2000]

Alarm : If you have the Scorpion 918U alarm ( black rectangular fob, lump on the back for the battery, switch on the side and two square buttons at one end - one domed and one recessed ), the second button is the panic button.

I think Stixy posted the instuction leaflet for the 918U some time back.

Ok one thing at a time. Thatls for that PKR, Saved off that instruction manual

Now...

It is the Scorpion 918U alarm, I've tried with the slider up and down (to rule out the ultrasonics), Makes no difference at all. When I turn the ignition on I get 4 flashes (repeated 3 times) which according to the manual is Boot/Bonnet open ?

The boot and bonnet are both closed .

Unless it uses a different sensor, the bonnet sensor for detecting if the bonnet is open (Door warning lights on the dash) is and always has been disconnected (If I connect that then it shows the bonnet perminently open). Boot I have no idea. Both appear locked/closed ok? Opened and closed em a few times to be sure.

Help!

 

[Chris_C2000]

Ok.. Alfas are weird...

Yesterday this wouldnt work, but I tried again today and pushing the panic button on the remote turns off the hazard lights.. Did this three times this afternoon and for an hour the car locked without setting off the hazards. Left it for an hour and now it's starting flashing the hazards again. Can still turn it off with the panic button tho.

Dont want to rip it out because then I'd have no remote central locking, and cant afford to get a proper system put in. Any thoughts?

 

[DAL32]

I adjusted my passenger door to reduce the panel gap... and then suddenly the interior door handle won't open the door from the first latch.. then when my drivers door cable snapped I replaced the bowden cable. But I broke the little plastic piece that locks the cable into the ring in the latch that it pulls (on the door lock side not the handle side) and the drivers door now won't open from the inside on the first latch.

I initially had a problem with the drivers door at all times - I put a little plastic piece (the type that slips over electrical connections) over the cable where it grabs the ring and it now it opens from full closed but not first latch. So basically, small variations in the length of the cable make a huge difference. That little piece of plastic would have been approximately 1mm or so spacing.. I feel if I slip another one on top of it, it'll be problem solved..

 

[Chris_C2000]

I adjusted my passenger door to reduce the panel gap... and then suddenly the interior door handle won't open the door from the first latch.. then when my drivers door cable snapped I replaced the bowden cable. But I broke the little plastic piece that locks the cable into the ring in the latch that it pulls (on the door lock side not the handle side) and the drivers door now won't open from the inside on the first latch.

I initially had a problem with the drivers door at all times - I put a little plastic piece (the type that slips over electrical connections) over the cable where it grabs the ring and it now it opens from full closed but not first latch. So basically, small variations in the length of the cable make a huge difference. That little piece of plastic would have been approximately 1mm or so spacing.. I feel if I slip another one on top of it, it'll be problem solved..

I'm not too sure I want to start fiddling with that!!

Alarm: Today I've been trying out locking the car, approx 30% of the time it locks ok, the remaining 70% it sets off the hazard lights. Most of the time pushing the 'panic' button stops it. Sometimes it stops it for 10-20 minutes and then the hazards start going again. This is driving me nuts!