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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,
How can we can the GTV safely off the ground high enough to be able to safely change the oil filter at the back of the engine? I am a wimp and too terrified to use axle stands alone :cry:, and I don't trust the look of the point where you would put them (I've also had one slide off one of those turrets previously too). I had bought a quickjack to assist with this - but the car wants to nose dive off the end of it due to the weight of that v6 engine at the front (only marginally terrifying!). Has anyone had any success with anything along the lines of a quickjack that doesn't threaten a Christine moment and potential death?! o_O I've heard of some using railways sleepers - where does one buy them? Do they give enough clearance? Or is the best solution to dig a pit in the garage?
Any advice appreciated as this damn oil filter is defeating me!!
 

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I have used ramps, a little scary driving up onto them and you need good clutch control not to overdo it and drive off the end :)

Once up there it’s safe and plenty of room to change the oil and filter and even the gearbox oil (if you can convince the nut to undo)
 

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I wouldn't risk it. Take to a garage to do it on 2 or 4 poster ramp. It may cost a few quid but no troubles......
Half the fun of having a GTV or other old car is being able to work on it to your ability. Changing the oil and filter is dead simple, why pay someone else to do it? I am no mechanic and anything inside the engine as well as brakes and steering are beyond my confidence levels but come on changing the oil is not a challenge! You can also be sure that your sump isn’t going to be abused by a mechanic using a power tool to remove and put back the sump plug. Replacing a sump is expensive and having to helicoil it due to lazy mechanics and their power tools is not unheard of!
 

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Ramp, plus handbrake on hard as you can (considering it isn't considered as being one of the best by a long way), in 1st gear and chock at least one of the rear wheels and you'll be fine.
 

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I made a set of ramps out of wood, extra wide, shallow angle for clearance on a low car, with an upright wheel chock at the end.
 

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Done this loads of times in the last few months.

Trolley jack under the stiffening plates - either at the front of the floor pan or the back of the subframe. Up goes one side of the car.

Insert a big (3 tonne) axle stand with one of the lugs locked into a suitable hole in the front subframe. Don’t use the turret, it has almost no means of location and isn’t strong enough.

Go round the other side, and make sure your trolley jack is free to roll - if it can’t roll, it can pull the car off the stand.

Raise the other side, insert axle stand. The car is now on two stands, taking 99% of the weight, and leave the jack locked into position just touching the floor pan stiffeners.

Invite your family to sit in the car, grab the bumpers and try and pull it sideways. It won’t budge, at all. If, in some parallel universe your stands turn to plasticine, the jack is still in place to protect you. If you’re really paranoid, stack the front tyres under there as well.
 

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Once off the ground either by ramp or on axle stands, get a decent tool for removing it. I use a shallow three arm adjustable one that fits on a socket wrench. And disconnect the battery first to avoid shorting the alternator which sits right next to it. An easy job made fiddly by the location, there is very little room to get at it.


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Discussion Starter #13
Thank you all for the advice, many wise words...
Hadn't anticipated the alternator issue!! (thank you too for pointing that one out!):)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Phase3dude - Alfa trouble is fun trouble :love:. They deliberately put the filter there knowing that in years to come, we will be having fun getting to it ----- unlike those boring old Mercedes with the boring oil filter on the top of the boring engine bay....:LOL:
 

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The car is now on two stands, taking 99% of the weight,
I agree with your process but not your statement above. This is a straightforward beam reaction/moments problem, the sort my sixth formers did. In the attached diagram just imagine the vehicle at an angle to the horizontal such as if on ramps or two axle stands and use perpendicular distances instead. Depending on how far the centre of gravity centre of mass is from the front and rear contact patches the division of forces front to rear is going to be around the 50% each, just same as if the car is on the level.
In the example I've deliberately moved the centre of gravity or centre of mass ( in this case we can assume they're the same) forward to give widely different numbers front to rear.
 

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I agree with your process but not your statement above. This is a straightforward beam reaction/moments problem, the sort my sixth formers did. In the attached diagram just imagine the vehicle at an angle to the horizontal such as if on ramps or two axle stands and use perpendicular distances instead. Depending on how far the centre of gravity centre of mass is from the front and rear contact patches the division of forces front to rear is going to be around the 50% each, just same as if the car is on the level.
In the example I've deliberately moved the centre of gravity or centre of mass ( in this case we can assume they're the same) forward to give widely different numbers front to rear.
I actually understood all of that... took me right back to doing A level Applied Maths in 6th Form when I didn’t pay as much attention as I should have done. But back to jacking the car up (even if mine are both twinnies and significantly lighter)... I always use axle stands, give it a good shove to check before getting underneath and put the wheels underneath so worst case I’ll only get a little bit squished and not totally flattened
 
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