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Discussion Starter #1
I am planning on changing the upper and lower wishbones when I do my clutch

Will they need greasing? I have some castrol red rubber grease which I imagine will be ideal but not sure which bits of the wishbones need dismantling to grease
 

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AFAIK the wishbones require no greasing when reassembled, or at least I did not (or was told to) grease my top arm when I changed it.
 

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I am planning on changing the upper and lower wishbones when I do my clutch

Will they need greasing? I have some castrol red rubber grease which I imagine will be ideal but not sure which bits of the wishbones need dismantling to grease
The upper wishbones could be greased between the rubber bush and the housing (pull the bush out, it's not bonded in place). There are threads on this if you search. Supposed to make them last longer even on OEM parts.
 

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There are links also to a Polish forum showing pictures of an OEM wishbone being greased, including a rather alarming picture of the balljoint with the boot removed showing how little grease is applied as standard. Little wonder the genuine arms don't last either.....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There are links also to a Polish forum showing pictures of an OEM wishbone being greased, including a rather alarming picture of the balljoint with the boot removed showing how little grease is applied as standard. Little wonder the genuine arms don't last either.....
Any links please
 

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give the new ones a liberal coating of silicone grease.......they will last longer for sure.....they do get a horrible life.........silicone grease is highly waterproof
 

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I've found that it's the inner bearing sleeve rubbing on the mounting bolt that is the problem after rain and salt do their worst. I silicon grease the bolt and shove some into the inner sleeves as I fit them to the mountings.

On my arms, the rubber bushes are bonded in! Trying to pull them out is likely to do more damage than good. They aren't meant to turn any how. The arm is designed to swivel around the mounting bolt.
 

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how much are the wishbones? are they difficult to swap over?
Depends where you buy them .. we don't recommend fleabay. Try a local parts outlet/motor factors or one of the Alfa parts specialists (EB Spares, AlternativeAutos, shop4parts, AlfaWorkshop, AlfaShop)

There are a lot of threads on the subject, but a search may come up with some suggestions!


Fitting is not hard if you have the right tools and some patience. The hardest parts are (a) removing the a/r bar drop link from the strut and (b) dropping the strut down low enough to wriggle the upper arms and mounting over the top and out of the inner wing. I've got a how-to on my greenserpent site. It doesn't have many pics, but it is a step-by-step walk-through. There are threads on this site too that will help. Splitting the upper balljoint can be fun .. I've had one part company before now with the arm which made it a bit harder to remove from the suspension upright!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I've found that it's the inner bearing sleeve rubbing on the mounting bolt that is the problem after rain and salt do their worst. I silicon grease the bolt and shove some into the inner sleeves as I fit them to the mountings.

On my arms, the rubber bushes are bonded in! Trying to pull them out is likely to do more damage than good. They aren't meant to turn any how. The arm is designed to swivel around the mounting bolt.
Wouldn't it wear the bolt or bush sleeve if pivoting metal 2 metal?
 

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On my arms, the rubber bushes are bonded in! Trying to pull them out is likely to do more damage than good. They aren't meant to turn any how. The arm is designed to swivel around the mounting bolt.
The lowers arms have bonded bushes which are designed to rotate through flex of the rubber bush. Angular rotation is low so this isn't a problem.

But the upper arms move by the rubber bush rotating around the inner metal sleeve, there's no flex of the rubber itself. They don't rotate around the mounting bolt, the bolt should firmly lock the inner metal sleeve to the housing so the whole lot is solid. There's too much rotation of the short upper arms for a bonded solid rubber bush to accommodate, it would just rip up in no time.
 

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@156Jtdiesel
The bushes in the upper arm can be disassembled.
The bushes in the lower arm are bonded in and therefore fixed.
I fitted new uppers and lowers 'Birth' brand from shop4parts last year.
I dismantled the upper bushes and added some extra grease....not much in there from new.
You need a vice, suitable drift and big hammer and or large screwdrivers.......

Looking at the upper arm you will see the outer face of the metal bush is recessed and the inner face is flush with the rubber section.

Spray some lube around the 'recessed' outer face of each bush (helps the metal ride over the rubber lip.....then drive the metal bush out by striking the 'flush' inner face and or using a large screwdriver or 2 carefully lever the metal bush out from the recessed end.

The bushes are quite tight so best to practice on one of the old arms first.

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #16
@156Jtdiesel
The bushes in the upper arm can be disassembled.
The bushes in the lower arm are bonded in and therefore fixed.
I fitted new uppers and lowers 'Birth' brand from shop4parts last year.
I dismantled the upper bushes and added some extra grease....not much in there from new.
You need a vice, suitable drift and big hammer and or large screwdrivers.......

Looking at the upper arm you will see the outer face of the metal bush is recessed and the inner face is flush with the rubber section.

Spray some lube around the 'recessed' outer face of each bush (helps the metal ride over the rubber lip.....then drive the metal bush out by striking the 'flush' inner face and or using a large screwdriver or 2 carefully lever the metal bush out from the recessed end.

The bushes are quite tight so best to practice on one of the old arms first.

Hope this helps
Excellent shout learn my mistakes on the knackered arms first
 
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