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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've only had the car a couple of weeks and so far I'm not massively impressed with the above suspension and am wondering if, now 54k miles after being fitted, it is past it's best and needs replacing. Problems include:


  • Although I love the lowered look it's not practical for me as I've already caught the twin flexi's on a 'straddle' type speed hump and since had both of them replaced as they were blowing.
  • The fronts are, for want of a better word, groaning when going over normal speed humps even if crawling over them at next to 0 mph!
  • The rears seem under-damped and it can get flightly over bumps when travelling at speed. I've also noticed that when pulling up to stop, the rear will lift then settle again after the car has come to a stop.
  • I've had some majors 'BANGS' from the front when hitting minor potholes. Almost like the fronts are over-damped.

It would be interesting to hear from other folks who have the same set up and how well they are wearing.

At the mo, I'm pretty sure I'll be going back to standard ride-height but not sure what to do damper wise just yet.

Thoughts / recommendations welcome.
Cheers,
G
 

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When I did a lot of suspension work they recommended that shocks be changed/ serviced every 30k to maintain optimum performance on road cars.. cheaper shocks just get replaced better shocks can be serviced
 

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Swap to KW's
 

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The flexis are the lowest part of the downpipes. They are low because the cats they connect to are also low. There is masses of space above, if you wanted to cut & re-weld your downpipes and cats, you could improve things considerably. GTAs on standard suspension ground their flexis too, its just a bad design really. Going lower regardless of suspension choice just makes matters worse.

Something groaning in the suspension might not necessarily be related to shocks & springs. Maybe you have a worn wishbone bush or the anti roll bar bushes are getting noisy & creaky.

Any play in the rear top mounts? I've changed them on a few cars lately, with the body raised on a 2 post lift and the suspension hanging there is a good amount of free play in the strut before the spring starts to compress.

I've ran this setup over 40k, no issues. I sold my KW V1s after a few months on the car and shifted back to shocks & springs as I found the car much more composed on them. I did have V2s previously too, on a 156 2.5 V6 at the same time as having FSDs & Eibachs on my 156 3 litre.

At 54k they're probably past their best. I think if you changed to new something else you would see an improvement, whether it was the same again or something else.
 

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I sold my KW V1s after a few months on the car and shifted back to shocks & springs as I found the car much more composed on them. I did have V2s previously too, on a 156 2.5 V6 at the same time as having FSDs & Eibachs on my 156 3 litre.
Aaaaaaagggggghhhhh :depressed:

Cheers,
Hedge
 

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I replaced the Koni's with Bilstien B8 Sprint shocks, which are designed to work with shorter springs. The ride got a little firmer but a lot less crashy and the handling improved.
 

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If you've got crashy FSD and Eibachs, first thing is go get it aligned, I was ready to bin mine until it was aligned, massive difference. Then you want some decent tyres, Pirelli P Zero rosso were rock hard, so I binned them and use Michellin PS3, again, massive improvement in refinement. Bet you've a knackered drop link if you've a knock and the groaning is probably a wishbone. Mine never bottoms out, but I respect my suspension and realise I'm not driving a 4x4, so I don't hit speed bumps like Evil Knievel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Houston, we have a problem

Oh well it's all immaterial now as a rather large pothole brought about the demise of the my rear offside koni FSD the other day. I wasn't impressed with them anyway and suspected that they might be past their best.

New Bilstein B6 and Cobra 20mm lowering springs should arrive soon Will also replace the discs and pads while I'm at it. Just need to get the top 22mm nut off now. Looking at other threads I assume I need a gooseneck 22mm spanner along with hex socket?

Also made a little slotted wooden block for jacking it up. :)
 

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Can I still get replacement standard shocks?

The flexis are the lowest part of the downpipes. They are low because the cats they connect to are also low. There is masses of space above, if you wanted to cut & re-weld your downpipes and cats, you could improve things considerably. GTAs on standard suspension ground their flexis too, its just a bad design really. Going lower regardless of suspension choice just makes matters worse.

Something groaning in the suspension might not necessarily be related to shocks & springs. Maybe you have a worn wishbone bush or the anti roll bar bushes are getting noisy & creaky.

Any play in the rear top mounts? I've changed them on a few cars lately, with the body raised on a 2 post lift and the suspension hanging there is a good amount of free play in the strut before the spring starts to compress.

I've ran this setup over 40k, no issues. I sold my KW V1s after a few months on the car and shifted back to shocks & springs as I found the car much more composed on them. I did have V2s previously too, on a 156 2.5 V6 at the same time as having FSDs & Eibachs on my 156 3 litre.

At 54k they're probably past their best. I think if you changed to new something else you would see an improvement, whether it was the same again or something else.
As per header, are OEM shocks still available, or can I get mine rebuilt on my 147 GTA?
 

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As per header, are OEM shocks still available, or can I get mine rebuilt on my 147 GTA?
According to my May 2015 version of ePer original 147 GTA shocks are still available, fronts are p/n 71773666 and are £139.33 each inc VAT, rears are p/n 50509465 and are £142.43 each inc VAT, I should be able to get at least 11% off those figures. Still not cheap though.
 

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According to my May 2015 version of ePer original 147 GTA shocks are still available, fronts are p/n 71773666 and are £139.33 each inc VAT, rears are p/n 50509465 and are £142.43 each inc VAT, I should be able to get at least 11% off those figures. Still not cheap though.
That's great, thanks Dan.
Am still undecided about OEM vs KW/Bilstein. I realise the handling could be sharper, but I really want to keep the decent ride quality and cope with London's speed humps!
 

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Mine is still stock/OEM, the only thing that lets it down are the tyres at the moment. The ride is not crashy, in fact unless you are really just out for a spot of hoonage, it isn't bad at all. My car won't be put on a track, it's just a reasonably fast family wagon for those times when I don't have to use something bigger to cart all the family and the dog around. And obviously a nice place to be..
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So my Bilsteins arrived the other day along with new F&R top-mounts. I have to say I'm not too impressed with the paint finish on them. I heard that they don't even use primer on them!! There are quite a few unpainted areas on them too. No matter as I've found the RAL code and will get Halfords to mix me some paint so I can give them a couple more coats of yellow before I fit them. They're not cheap so I will be looking to make them last as long as possible.

Still waiting for my gooseneck spanner before I can get the top nut off! :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Finally got my spanner so could get both top nuts off when angling the damper rod inwards towards car. The top mount was a ***** to remove but got it off eventually. The rubber lower part had actually rusted away from the top half!! Much confusion over FSD / OEM bump stops Vs B6 bump stops then read online that the B6's have internal bump stops! Phew. Thankfully not much corrosion inside the turret but will touch a few rusty spots up with a rust-remedy type thing which I have yet to buy. Sprayed a disk with silver VHT paint.

Slow progress but getting there...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
But whyyy?
If you saw the state of the disk I removed you would understand! With hindsight I should have purchased discs that come with a protective coating but I cheaped out! Or if you mean why did I use VHT paint... true, I may not have needed to use VHT paint but I didn't want the hassle of having to repaint them if the paint couldn't take the heat.

Anyway, it's all bolted back up together now and she's had her maiden voyage. Thankfully no rattles yet! The only problem I had was not being to torque up the very top nut as I had no way to stop the rod turning. Would be interested to know how other folks have done it.

I have this week off work so hope to get the other 3 corners done. Just need the weather to play ball...
 
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