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Just adding to what's already been said, I suspect that the grease on the brass segments on the white plastic disc in photo 1 is the cause of your problem. All you need to do to clean them is just remove the grease - if you have contact cleaner use that to ensure a good job.

As for the rest of it, grease is only needed where you have moving parts in contact with one another.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Just adding to what's already been said, I suspect that the grease on the brass segments on the white plastic disc in photo 1 is the cause of your problem. All you need to do to clean them is just remove the grease - if you have contact cleaner use that to ensure a good job.

As for the rest of it, grease is only needed where you have moving parts in contact with one another.

will try that! On my way to the store now to get some contact cleaner.

in a way the brass contacts and the brass parts on the wheel also are moving parts in contact with each other right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I cleaned the plastic wheel and the brass contacts with a clean cloth and some contact cleaner, installed the motor again and tried it. Problems seem worse.. In position off and continuous 1 the motor keeps rotating. Putting it in the upper position (interval?) and the lowest position the fuse blew.. this is new..
 

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The grease must be applied on the parts which interacts. That's about the same places as you found it.

Allright - if you can find some fine sandpaper and make the brass evenly shine again, I think this is the simple way to explain. Also give the tip of the 'fingers' a touch, so the electrical contact is optimised. You might bend the fingers slightly, so the tension towards the brass and thereby the contact is good.

Just a drop of oil on both bearings would be good, and the commutator could benefit from a touch of the sandpaper.

When all is done, close the motor assembly and connect it to the car. See if it works before you put it all together.
 

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Seems that my last posting came a little late.

@Dave; Grease does not conduct and the wiper motor comes with grease on the brass as shown.

@Roberttt; Are you sure that you assembled it correctly? Does the motor rotate? If it is blocked it draw excessive current, and the fuse can blow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
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Seems that my last posting came a little late.

@Dave; Grease does not conduct and the wiper motor comes with grease on the brass as shown.

@Roberttt; Are you sure that you assembled it correctly? Does the motor rotate? If it is blocked it draw excessive current, and the fuse can blow.
hi stratos, I took the motor apart again and think I know what caused the fuse to blow. One of the non isolated wires probably didn’t stay in its plastic ‘housing’. I reassembled the motor and tried it again. No fuse issues anymore, but the problem with the wipers remain..
Any ideas on what can I try next to pinpoint the problem?
 

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Hi Robertt

Sorry that we don't just nail it. No harm done as your wipermoter gets this TLC.

I think we must chase this ground connection you must have to make it park. As earlier mentioned the motor need a Ground to stop instantly. This ground shortens the motor and electrically put an indefinite load on the motor, which makes it stop right there (long explaination).

Don't you think we must find whether this fault is inside the wipermotor or elsewhere? Are you able to find another one for just this test?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Hi Robertt

Sorry that we don't just nail it. No harm done as your wipermoter gets this TLC.

I think we must chase this ground connection you must have to make it park. As earlier mentioned the motor need a Ground to stop instantly. This ground shortens the motor and electrically put an indefinite load on the motor, which makes it stop right there (long explaination).

Don't you think we must find whether this fault is inside the wipermotor or elsewhere? Are you able to find another one for just this test?
Hi Stratos, I could buy a used wiper motor for approximately €30. Another thought of me was to check the pins of the connector with a multimeter to check if the problem is in the motor or in one of the elements of steering column. Is that possible?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Hi Stratos, I could buy a used wiper motor for approximately €30. Another thought of me was to check the pins of the connector with a multimeter to check if the problem is in the motor or in one of the elements of steering column. Is that possible?
just did some checks with the multimeter:

  • connector pin 4 (ground): multimeter on ohm setting, one probe on connector 4 and one probe on the negative pole of the battery. there was a good ground.
  • multimeter on volt setting to test the voltage of the connector pins at different settings of the steeringcollumn switch unit.
Lowest position: pin 3 (12v) pin 2 (0v) pin 1(12v)
Al other positions: pin3 (12v), pin2 (12v), pin 1(ov)
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Update, just picked up a used wiper motor for €20. Thought it was worth the gamble. Unfortunately, also with the other motor the same problems occurred..
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Update: removed the steering column switch and checked its guts. All brass connections looked good, so I decided to buy a used steering column switch at a local car parts store. Installed it and now the wipers work as they should again.
Thanks for thinking along everybody👍
 

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Update: removed the steering column switch and checked its guts. All brass connections looked good, so I decided to buy a used steering column switch at a local car parts store. Installed it and now the wipers work as they should again.
Thanks for thinking along everybody👍
Great to hear that you solved the problem. I'm sorry that I guided you via the motor. This fault usually is caused by worn contacts here. Nevertheless I think this electrical ground string is the same, just located in the steering column.
I hope it works for you in rainy weather, but let's wait with that 😊
 
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