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Once you’ve split the ball joint on the end which it looks like you have it should just lift out.

If this isn’t moving you could also undo the two nuts on the end of the wishbone as this is where the ball joint bolts too.
 

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When I did mine I'm sure that I left the inner part bolted to the chassis and separated the outer first as it allows you to have more control..



Hi,

I'm just in the process of replacing my suspension with CA Handling Kit and have been following the excellent thread on Alfabb https://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-105-115-series-1966-1994/192358-front-suspension-change-dummies.html

I'm just removing the lower wishbone on the drivers side and have been unable to separate the end that meets the wheel (please see attached pics), any help gratefully received.

Thanks
 

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When I did mine I'm sure that I left the inner part bolted to the chassis and separated the outer first as it allows you to have more control..
Correct, doing it that way means you have the pressure of the spring working on the bottom arm, helping to separate the ball joint. I just undo the ball joint nut a few turns, crack the joint, put the trolley jack under the spring pan, remove the ball joint nut completely, then slowly lower the jack.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Simon, did as you suggested and have left the ball attached and removed the rest of the wishbone. I haven't done the passenger side yet so will follow your advice GTA, I had tried with the wishbone still attached to the chassis but had already removed the spring and so couldn't get any leverage. Thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Have now done the passenger side, much easier - release pressure of spring but leave in place, undo ball joint nut, put jack under wishbone near ball joint, whack ball joint with hammer.
GTA are you saying you don’t even bother with the threaded rods?
 

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If your removing the springs and they are still under pressure.. use the threaded rod process.... best be safe me thinks...:cheeky:


QUOTE=Mattystar;17473241]Have now done the passenger side, much easier - release pressure of spring but leave in place, undo ball joint nut, put jack under wishbone near ball joint, whack ball joint with hammer.
GTA are you saying you don’t even bother with the threaded rods?[/QUOTE]
 

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I was bit cavalier when I stripped the GTV suspension the other week. I used the jack method and it went with a hell of a bang. The car was on a ramp in an open workshop and I was expecting it but I’d definitely recommend playing safe with the threaded bar method, certainly with standard springs.
 

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Have now done the passenger side, much easier - release pressure of spring but leave in place, undo ball joint nut, put jack under wishbone near ball joint, whack ball joint with hammer.
GTA are you saying you don’t even bother with the threaded rods?
Guilty as charged I'm afraid.
However, I must explain that I've used this method literally hundreds of times over 40+ years on cars with similar front suspension, including 17 years rallying, and the rest restoring, running and using. I never do it high off the ground, and always so the jack acts as a cushion if it did let go. Never happened once.
My nose is still intact.
Yes, I know it's not the safest way, but it's by far the quickest, and when you're up to the arse in mud between stages, you need to sort a broken shocker mount very quickly.
HSE please don't come to my house......... and if anyone reading this isn't used to removing springs, use the threaded bar method !
Steve
 

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That made me laugh Steve! I was just wondering if I had spent needless hours winding and unwinding nuts on long threaded nuts, glad to hear it wasn't wasted time. I'm onto the top arm now and have decided the drivers side one (under the airbox) is too much of a pain to remove so I'm going to change the bushes in situ. Am I missing something? Can't really see how to remove it without taking almost everything out of that side of the engine bay.
 

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Are you not replacing the whole arm, it should be the easier option?

Having said that the drivers side nut in the engine bay was stuck fast on mine too. I had the remove everything (carbs, fuel pump, filter, expansion tank) to get my impact driver in there.

Worth doing though especially as the recess where it goes through from the wheel arch side is a bit of a rust trap so I was glad that I gave mine a good clean and treatment.

Oh and while that’s all off you might as well service the steering box!!!
 
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You'll find it impossible to do the offside top arm of the car in situ.
The top arm rear bolt has to come out to change the bushes, and to undo the bolt, you have to at least remove the airbox, better still the carbs. Nearside is easy.
Its only a "once a flood" change, so better to do it right than give yourself a load of grief.
The top arm bush, and the castor arm bush where it joins the top arm, I always do in poly, as (particularly the castor arm bush) they are where you get the most unwanted movement, obviously particularly under braking. The standard castor arm bushes are crap, and not much better even with the platic spacers inserted.
Definitely poly the way to go in both positions.
 

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I had a real challenge doing this.. if you get under the car and put a spanner on the bolt head and try to lock it against the inner wing to stop it from moving... I then used an extension on the nut to bring it out so that I had clearance past the carbs. some serious strength and it came lose.. As Simon said, it's worth doing as you have a chance to clean right in the box section and treat too.



That made me laugh Steve! I was just wondering if I had spent needless hours winding and unwinding nuts on long threaded nuts, glad to hear it wasn't wasted time. I'm onto the top arm now and have decided the drivers side one (under the airbox) is too much of a pain to remove so I'm going to change the bushes in situ. Am I missing something? Can't really see how to remove it without taking almost everything out of that side of the engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I had a real challenge doing this.. if you get under the car and put a spanner on the bolt head and try to lock it against the inner wing to stop it from moving... I then used an extension on the nut to bring it out so that I had clearance past the carbs. some serious strength and it came lose.. As Simon said, it's worth doing as you have a chance to clean right in the box section and treat too.
Ok, thanks. I actually got the bush out in situ with a hand press (relatively easily in comparison to everything else!). I’ll have a look at trying your method as I agree it would be good to clean and treat.
 
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