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Discussion Starter #1
after i serviced my car the other week, i noticed the front sub frame to be alarmingly rusty, given its age. so im going to take it off, sand it down, paint it and cover it in 'gloop'

question is, is the frame holding anything up ie the radiator, that may come tumbling down when i take the frame out?
 

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If your going through the hassle of taking the sub frame off why not get it powder coated?

Also, it would be worth filling the inside of it with a waterproof high temp expanding foam to prevent standing water and internal rust within the frame members.
 

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If your going through the hassle of taking the sub frame off why not get it powder coated?

Also, it would be worth filling the inside of it with a waterproof high temp expanding foam to prevent standing water and internal rust within the frame members.
Only problem ive seen with powder coating the sub frames is once the coating is chipped and water gets behind it, the coating starts to come off at an alarming rate. seen this happen on my dad and brothers TVR chassis.
 

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If your going through the hassle of taking the sub frame off why not get it powder coated?

Also, it would be worth filling the inside of it with a waterproof high temp expanding foam to prevent standing water and internal rust within the frame members.
Agree with Marshall about not powder coating, it's not a good rust proofing solution. Hammerite is probably better.
Also expanding foam in cavities just traps water against the steel that you're trying to protect, which causes greater chance of rust. You're better off with Dinitrol or Waxoyl for cavity protection.
 

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It apears the TVR guys use a product called POR15. it has great reviews and appears to out perform hammerite. Ive been looking at a better alternative to hammerite for a while as i don't think it lasts all that long.

I think my advise would be to remove all rust, treat the sub frame with krust (rust removing gel) then apply the POR15. may do this myself in the summer aswell.

link for the POR15:

POR15 BlackCote Paint | Frost Auto Restoration Techniques
 

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In relation to the OP's question.

If memory serves (and this is only a rough guide) you will need to support the engine from underneath, the lower control (suspension) arms are bolted to the sub-frame, as is the anti-roll bar. For some reason I've gone blank on the steering rack, think it is same as suspension arms (can't remember) and I do believe the radiator is supported in some manner by the frame.

Think that is about it. You may find silly thing like some cables / pipes and aircon pipes clip to it in places but it shouldn't be that bad.

I can check on eLearn later if you wish.

Good luck with it though.
 

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Powder coating

I had my race chassis powder coated from new BUT over the years (15 yrs) it's peeled or chipped in various places . Possibly things that can be easily removed like wishbones etc would be good coated but personally I'd never use it again. Where it's chipped/peeled off I strip more off back to it's strong gripping the surface point then wire brush off , two coats of bilthamber Hydrate 80 , 20/30 mins apart then HAMMERITE smooth the next day. It has served me well plus is easy to repair when scratched again , unlike powder coating. Don't use it straight out of the pot though or your brush will contaminate the rest and it will go off. I just pour spoonful into a container then top up if needed. Look it up on google and read .
 

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The steering rack bolts to the subframe so you would need to unbolt it and support it.
There's a power steering pipe on the passenger side that mounts to the subframe and a random electrical connector at the back of the subframe that goes to the dpf.
The subframe also supports the rad.
If you want some pictures just shout and I will see what I have as I removed mine recently when changing the flywheel.
 

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The steering rack bolts to the subframe so you would need to unbolt it and support it.
There's a power steering pipe on the passenger side that mounts to the subframe and a random electrical connector at the back of the subframe that goes to the dpf.
The subframe also supports the rad.
If you want some pictures just shout and I will see what I have as I removed mine recently when changing the flywheel.
Pictures would be good. I fear mine will being removed soon due to the dreaded M32 gearbox issue. The whine and whir is getting louder...
 

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It apears the TVR guys use a product called POR15. it has great reviews and appears to out perform hammerite. Ive been looking at a better alternative to hammerite for a while as i don't think it lasts all that long.

I think my advise would be to remove all rust, treat the sub frame with krust (rust removing gel) then apply the POR15. may do this myself in the summer aswell.

link for the POR15:

POR15 BlackCote Paint | Frost Auto Restoration Techniques
POR15 sticks better to a rusty surface, POR stands for Paint On Rust, i have used it on a land rover chassis, it sticks to everything
 

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Sorry about the delay, I was trying to dig out the pictures but here goes.

The first picture shows the power steering pipe or air con pipe that will need removing from the subframe.

The second picture the radiator bracket mount that is also mounted in a similar housing at the bottom on the subframe. So you will have to support the radiator.

The third picture shows 2 points, Point 1 is the steering rack mounts and Point 2 is the retaining hole for the DPF wiring. Be careful with this as its on the top side of the subframe and if you dont unclip it your wiring gets stretched. (Like mine did, cos i didnt notice it)

The 4th picture shows the subframe mounts. Point 1 the supports for the rad. Rubber bushes sit in these circles, hence why you have to support the rad when removed. Point 2 is the engine support mount. Point 3 is the gearbox support mount. Point 4 is the end of the Anti Roll Bar, I left the Anti Roll Bar on the subframe as it was only one bolt each side to remove. Point 5 is the lower chassis support. Its a flat piece of metal bolted to this mount that then is bolted onto the chassis. Remove the bolt and the metal can be pulled out of the way when the subframe gets lowered.

I hope this helps, I would invest in some female torx sockets as the majority of the bolts you will be removing have torx heads. You will need up to size E24 for the big subframe bolts. Let us know how you get on.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks, pics are a huge help. im going to get some sort of zinc primer too. ill let you know how i get on :)
 

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Yeah I completely understand about the pictures.
If someone shows me a picture, I find it so much easier to understand.
 

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Yeah I completely understand about the pictures.
If someone shows me a picture, I find it so much easier to understand.
+1:thumbs:
 

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Yeh completely agree. it doesn't actually look like that massive a job to do once you've got the car up and engine supported.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
is it doable on axle stands? block of wood and trolley jack under the engine?

not really, especially if youre removing it completely
 
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