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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, can anybody tell me if I need a special tool to remove my front discs. I got the wheel off and then was stumped by the large, weird bolt that I came accross.
Many thanks.
 

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There's a disk locating bolt, it's inbetween the wheelbolt holes.

they're a pig to remove, then just a sharp tap with a hammer to release the old disks, sometimes they corrode in position
 

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Have a look at this; the write up is for a 156 but the 147 is the same. The "large, weird bolt" you mention is possibly the hub nut; you don't need to touch that.
 

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Hee hee ... that's my how-to ... blimey, 2005!

Little out-of-date now as I updated it for the rears and using the correct re-wind tool but it will be fine for the fronts .. 156 and 147 are the same just the discs can be different depending on engine size: solid or vented.

You'll need a 7mm hex socket or brake spanner (large allen key) to get the front caliper bolts out.
 

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It may be 8 years old Gary, but it's just as valid and useful and still helping people. There's not a lot on the internet that cam claim that :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks

Thank you to all who replied. It's making more sense now. The disk locating bolt is the pointed one, I'm guessing. Didn't realize had to bleed brakes too. Thanks again all.
 

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Hee hee ... that's my how-to ... blimey, 2005!

Little out-of-date now as I updated it for the rears and using the correct re-wind tool but it will be fine for the fronts .. 156 and 147 are the same just the discs can be different depending on engine size: solid or vented.

You'll need a 7mm hex socket or brake spanner (large allen key) to get the front caliper bolts out.
Yep, i've used it for both my front and rear brakes about a year ago..

A great guide! :)


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yeh use the guide, i have its good.

You'll need to remove the caliper and the bracket. Not that scary its a total of 4 bolts. Grab yourself a mallet, it'll help.

Like previously said the the caliper bolts are 7mm hex head and the caliper bolts are 19mm but are really really tight. You'll need to crack them and then retorque them to 130 nM.

good luck!
 
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The suggestion on bleeding the brakes while pushing the calipers back stems from a worry that pushing them back with the hydraulics sealed can mess with the ABS sensors is an urban legend. I've always left the system closed and pushed back the caliper pistons. Never had any bother.

When all is done and the new discs and pads are in, then I usually change the brake fluid anyway.


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Remove the brake fluid reservoir filler cap to relieve the pressure when pushing the piston's back.. and keep an eye on the level so it doesn't over spill...Simple as that really;)

Bring back Tapatalk !!!
 

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the suggestion on bleeding the brakes while pushing the calipers back stems from a worry that pushing them back with the hydraulics sealed can mess with the abs sensors is an urban legend. I've always left the system closed and pushed back the caliper pistons. Never had any bother.

When all is done and the new discs and pads are in, then i usually change the brake fluid anyway.


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remove the brake fluid reservoir filler cap to relieve the pressure when pushing the piston's back.. And keep an eye on the level so it doesn't over spill...simple as that really;)

bring back tapatalk !!!
+1 + +1 = +2
 

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The suggestion on bleeding the brakes while pushing the calipers back stems from a worry that pushing them back with the hydraulics sealed can mess with the ABS sensors is an urban legend. I've always left the system closed and pushed back the caliper pistons. Never had any bother.

When all is done and the new discs and pads are in, then I usually change the brake fluid anyway.


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Just for conversation sake and not nit picking.... Some early ABS equipped cars possibly did suffer this problem and it's probably where the idea came from. I remember us getting a service bulletin from Vauxhall about Mk 2 Cavaliers saying that the bleed nipple should be opened to avoid the reverse pressure on seals in the ABS pump and consequent damage. I never heard of a pump being damaged and I'd bet most of those early cars had pads changed in the normal way.
I still clamp off the flex pipe and open the bleed nipple just to avoid overflow from the reservoir if it's already full when I start the job.
My advice to an owner not too familiar with brakes would be to not open them or attempt any bleed process without the help of someone experienced.
 

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I'm looking at my greenserpent website as the free hosting service keeps screwing up it with naff pop-ups ... I just need to transition over my docs and stuff to my new hosting service, but technology has moved on so the old pages just don't work as they should and need a bit of a major re-write.
 

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Hee hee ... that's my how-to ... blimey, 2005!

Little out-of-date now as I updated it for the rears and using the correct re-wind tool but it will be fine for the fronts .. 156 and 147 are the same just the discs can be different depending on engine size: solid or vented.

You'll need a 7mm hex socket or brake spanner (large allen key) to get the front caliper bolts out.
I used it today for my rears on the GT. 12 years on still useful.

Are there any guides on removing brembo 330mm calipers?
 

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I used it today for my rears on the GT. 12 years on still useful.

Are there any guides on removing brembo 330mm calipers?
The two big allen bolts is all that holds them on. Righty tighty, lefty loosey. :D
 

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No spigot bolts? Is caliper removal Allen key or bolt?
Pads are held into the caliper with two pins, you need a hammer and thin punch to remove them. Caliper is held onto the bracket with two big allen bolts, 10mm allen key required from memory. You don't need to remove the brake pipe to take the caliper off but you do need to be careful with it as the brake pipes can be brittle. You can cable tie the caliper to the spring if its going to be off for some time. Disc is usually held onto the hub by the same single 12mm stud as it is on your TS, 12mm deep socket required. Nice easy job on the Brembos, just take care.
 
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