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Discussion Starter #1
Just looking for some general advice please

Because I currently have the rad out of the car I was thinking about replacing the front crank seal.. I've a sneaky suspicion that it may be letting oil escape at higher revs? tell tail sign on the under bonnet area?

The process
Remove locking nut tab
26mm socket and extension bar to crack open? around 150lb torque?

Does the car need to be in gear?

Going to use the upgraded seal (corteco)
clean the inside of the pulley prior to refitting?

Are they a swine to remove?

I am also in the process of replacing the prop doughnut so should I wait before disconnecting prop? or does it not matter?

Appreciate any advice on this job..
 

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seems about right, Rod.

Hopefully you have the lock washer, as sometimes those nuts were put on with red loctite and no lock washer, and then you really need heat to break the seal.

you sure about the 150 ft/lbs? there are different torques depending.....from about 85 to 140 I believe....the higher being for bosch injected 2.0 litres

with the rad out of the car, your best bet would be to get an impact wrench in there (air or electric). But use impact wrench only when un-doing, never to tighten up the pulley bolt.

using a breaker bar you do need to lock the engine from turning, so basic method is put car in gear, handbrake etc...but that might not do it, depending.

other methods are rope in cylinder trick or
long breaker bar wedged against chassis or ground, and crank the starter method.

when you have the pulley off inspect it for wear marks where the seal rides....if there is wear you can speedi sleeve the surface easily and cheaply.
https://www.alfabb.com/threads/front-crankshaft-pulley-leak-fix-sleeve.187627/

oil the lip of the seal and press it in evenly and flush. Behind the seal will be a thin metal oil slinger, don't leave it out.

(oh btw. water pump is easier to swop when the pulley is off........make sure that is not leaking whilst you're there...........sometimes dirty/ oily antifreeze can get sprayed around and can look like oil)

when it looks like this, it's a sure sign the front crank seal is shot:)
 

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Changed one a while ago, pretty straightforward except I couldn’t undo the nut at all using a bar. It’s a 36mm socket to 140 ft lbs. Had to buy an impact gun for the job which worked a treat though. Inspect the pulley as Dom says and you could also repaint it and repaint the timing marks if needed.

Prop doughnut is unrelated just don’t remove the metal band until it’s fitted! Maybe replace the top hat bush and disc too if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys.... I don't currently have an impact wrench so on your advice I will go and purchase one! I don't think the front seal has ever been replaced, however the water pump was replaced a few years ago so I am sure this is leak free. `thanks for the tips regarding the pulley.. I will report back once it is removed..

Thanks also for the tips regarding the doughnut, I am also going to have a crack at removing the gearbox mount using the puller/cap method...

In for a penny in for a pound!!!
 

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couple of observations:
that big nut seems to be the wrong way round....the 'round face' would normally face in to the washer (the bevel keeps the hex edges off the washer when torquing)
edit: could be there is a round on both sides, in which case it's allright.

It is possible the pulley was off already (maybe even the seal replaced, as it doesn't look very oil sodden there, just dirty) as the pulley normally has to come off to remove the water pump..
...which leads me to....
aren't there a couple of nuts missing? (circled here)


pump.jpg
 

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Yes that engine looks pretty clean, have you cleaned the engine and oil pan as if not it doesn’t look like the seal is leaking.

i changed mine thinking it was the source of my leak but later realised that the missing distributor seal was a more likely culprit.
 

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Be careful with that gearbox mount Rod, its an alloy casing and .....a impact driver/ wrench is definitely the best way for the crank nut, I changed my seal using one of those hook things, worked really well. never had a problem getting the nut off as when I came back from Ireland it was missing anyway....nearly pooped myself when I saw that! - pulley was absolutely fine, removing the mechanical fan takes a lot of the strain off the belt and therefore the water pump and pulley
 

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Because I currently have the rad out of the car I was thinking about replacing the front crank seal.. I've a sneaky suspicion that it may be letting oil escape at higher revs? tell tail sign on the under bonnet area?
The other culprit for this can be the oil cap not sealing properly - is there any oil in the no.1 spark plug well ? There are threads on this on the forum, and you can buy replacement seals for the caps.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Now you have got me thinking.... We changed the water pump around 1k miles ago. assuming that is ok.. I had a slight spray on the underside of the bonnet, directly above the fan belt? it tended to be worse when I had the car on the motorway for a 30 mile drive at around 60-70MPH... Assume there is more pressure on the crank seal at a higher MPH?



Yes that engine looks pretty clean, have you cleaned the engine and oil pan as if not it doesn’t look like the seal is leaking.

i changed mine thinking it was the source of my leak but later realised that the missing distributor seal was a more likely culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Not driven the car for a while so i can't say? could be worth doing though as a precaution? I just thought with the rad out it was worth replacing the crank seal...

The other culprit for this can be the oil cap not sealing properly - is there any oil in the no.1 spark plug well ? There are threads on this on the forum, and you can buy replacement seals for the caps.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wow... you were lucky there Martin...

I'm going to attempt the removal of the gearbox mount using a 2 arm puller and cap.. The one currently on the car is shot.... If i can remove it I will replace it by heating the casing and putting the bush in the freezer


Be careful with that gearbox mount Rod, its an alloy casing and .....a impact driver/ wrench is definitely the best way for the crank nut, I changed my seal using one of those hook things, worked really well. never had a problem getting the nut off as when I came back from Ireland it was missing anyway....nearly pooped myself when I saw that! - pulley was absolutely fine, removing the mechanical fan takes a lot of the strain off the belt and therefore the water pump and pulley
 

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when you remove the old bushing compare its outside diameter with the new before putting it in.
There are some bad bushings out there which are a few thou' too big and when you try press them in the tranny cracks....ooof!
iirc the bush should measure 64mm
 

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Discussion Starter #14
when you remove the old bushing compare its outside diameter with the new before putting it in.
There are some bad bushings out there which are a few thou' too big and when you try press them in the tranny cracks....ooof!
iirc the bush should measure 64mm
Thanks for the tip.. purchased from classic alfa recently so hoping its ok.. ive read various threads some saying that you can heat the bracket and if you have placed the bush in a a freezer for a day it almost goes straight in... I've got a feeling its in the same league as the clutch slave cylinder..... that was a pita.....
 

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Rod, if you're putting a bushing in the freezer, put it in a bag before it goes in there - stops any frost build up on the bushing, meaning easier to insert in the housing..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the tip.... Unfortunately my gas heater ran out gas so it was too cold to get on my back under the car this weekend... oh for spring and the light nights!

Rod, if you're putting a bushing in the freezer, put it in a bag before it goes in there - stops any frost build up on the bushing, meaning easier to insert in the housing..
 
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