Alfa Romeo Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, a long time since I've been on the forum so I hope your all going well. I've hit a problem with my engine, it's just back from a garage and they have removed the flywheel for some reason!:irked: I won't go into detail but I won't go back to them with it. I think I have all the parts but having read my wsm and it states that you need to align the markings. Guess what I can't find any!!!

So any help please
? What should I be looking for to align it.
? What's the torque for the bolts.
? I take it its just a flywheel, bolts, washers and a shim plate.
? Anything else I should look to do before refitting.

Should have said she's a 1987 lhd 2.0, spider S3.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
371 Posts
Normally I'd say that the orientation doesn't matter but as yours is a Graduate it'll be a US model and have fuel injection and a second crank position sensor that reads off the flywheel so this is going to be important for you!

I'm surprised that your "workshop manual" doesn't tell you this (or the torque wrench settings either), is it one for the model or a generic one?

There's next to no expertise on these early Bosch cars this side of the pond so your best best is a post on the Alfa BB, it's US based so plenty of owners there who will probably know what to do.

Just don't listen to them about suspension setup, they'll suggest rock hard springs and massive "tires"... ;)

Sorry I can't be more positive but good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,053 Posts
we presume you have a US L-Jetronic injected spider......there are two flywheel sensors on the bellhousing, and the reason why the flywheel has to be refitted correctly.
Get it wrong and the whole thing needs to come out again as it won't work!

(unless we are talking a US spider that has been converted from L-jet to carbs, in which case the electronic stuff might be gone!)

so, presuming a US spider, still in L-jet form:)
timing mark can be very difficult to see on an old dirty flywheel:

Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums - View Single Post - No ground pulse to injectors - alfa spider l-jetronic
S3 Flywheel installation - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

most torques here:
Centerline Alfa Romeo Parts & Accessories | TECH TIPS (click on "charts and reference material" > "Torque Specification Chart pdf"

&

regarding the use of LocTite:
Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums - View Single Post - Torque specs for flywheel & car disc CD

you'd also be wise to ohms test the sensors:
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/6573842-post2.html

Both sensors are identical but each has a different purpose and needs to be connected to the correct plug up in the engine bay near the washer bottle (lower sensor connects to grey sensor and upper sensor connects to the black connector)

Dom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Jim, Dom thank you for your advice and time. I will look at this over the weekend, I'm sure I'll be back soon if not reference this then something else? Neil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Well got it sorted out I thing, I've aligned the flywheel to TDC ect and all looks good and ready to tighten fully. A couple of things if anyone can help first....

1. Theres a thin round plate which obviously goes in the centre of the flywheel however where does it go - engine or gearbox side of the fly wheel. Picture below.

2. I've initially aligned the clutch and plate but it seems to sit proud of the flywheel where the bolts go into the wheel, is this normal and does it bolt down flat to the wheel when tightened?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,053 Posts
A couple of things if anyone can help first....

1. Theres a thin round plate which obviously goes in the centre of the flywheel however where does it go - engine or gearbox side of the fly wheel. Picture below.
Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums - View Single Post - Vin's S4 Engine Rebuild

2. I've initially aligned the clutch and plate but it seems to sit proud of the flywheel where the bolts go into the wheel, is this normal and does it bolt down flat to the wheel when tightened?
not quite sure what you mean but some photos here (same excellent rebuild thread by Vin over on the BB) might shed light?

Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums - View Single Post - Vin's S4 Engine Rebuild

PS: don't you think your flywheel surface could do with a clean up?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Yeh I'm sure the plate goes on the gearbox side now. Just reviews other sites and seen two entries that show this.

As to the clutch pressure plate it stands some 3-5 MM. off the flywheel, hard to explain but I've not tightened the bolts fully yet but I surpose what I'm asking is, does the clutch pressure plate bolt flat to the flywheel as you tighten the bolts or should it sit flat before you tighten the nuts? Picture added.

As to cleaning the flywheel plate, I used clutch cleaner as I didn't want to cause any damage to it, any thoughts on how I could improve this area?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Yeh I'm sure the plate goes on the gearbox side now. Just reviews other sites and seen two entries that show this.

As to the clutch pressure plate it stands some 3-5 MM. off the flywheel, hard to explain but I've not tightened the bolts fully yet but I surpose what I'm asking is, does the clutch pressure plate bolt flat to the flywheel as you tighten the bolts or should it sit flat before you tighten the nuts? Picture added.

As to cleaning the flywheel plate, I used clutch cleaner as I didn't want to cause any damage to it, any thoughts on how I could improve this area?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,053 Posts
If that surface feels absolutely smooth (no obvious pits or unevenness) then the only thing I would use to clean the surface would be one of those green scotchbrite pan cleaners (I bet you have one in the kitchen!) together with the cleaning fluid. You do not want to sand it - any unevenness - and you will forever have a juddering clutch.
If there are visible pits or you feel unevenness (ie. a PO has maybe gone at the thing with a belt sander!) you need to get it machined (equally both sides)

The plate ought to sit flush once you tighten those bolts down evenly (with the alignment tool), little by little (I think torque is 18ft/lbs dry)

TDC: I'm sure you've done it right, but now's the time to be absolutely sure you have it at TDC "on compression stroke", before putting it all back: no#1 piston at top, both camshaft lobes pointing outwards and the dizzy rotor pointing to the no#1 cylinder notch on the edge of the distributor.
(Another method you might have noticed that only one of the crank>flywheel bolt holes has threads that start about .25" in, that is the TDC mark for the crank - line this up with the TDC mark on the flywheel)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,553 Posts
Scothbrite to clean it - go to Halfords. IN the paint area there will be packs of three grades (red, green, grey)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Cleaned the plate up as suggested all looks good. I will refit the clutch tomorrow but I tried the old one today to see how that fitted and it was Rothey same stand off so I will tighten as suggested. TDC looks good all round so hopfully this important part will be good.

Putting the release bearing and fork in tomorrow so should be able to put the box back on the engine this week. Neil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,053 Posts
Putting the release bearing and fork in tomorrow so should be able to put the box back on the engine this week. Neil
sounds as though you are getting there:)

one last little thing...
make sure the reverse lights switch (inside the bellhousing) is working.........to replace it you need to take the gearbox off:(
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top