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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Floorpan/interior refurb

Hi all,

Id noticed a little bit of rust at the interior base of the A pillar so thought i'd investigate and before i knew it id removed the whole interior.

It's all pretty sound underneath but needs a bit of tidying up but there was dampness in the passenger foot well and some rust which i want to sort.

First job is to find the source of the footwell water, ive had a good poke around the footwell and it seems sound with no holes but it has been patched in the past so im guessing a blocked scuttle drain or something?

I want to do a good job so would appreciate advice on how to proceed. I'm planning to scrape of all the bitumen type sound deadening, rub back any areas of rust, treat with a rust proofer then repaint. What paint should i use, can you brush on car paint?

then i planned to cover the metal areas with dynamat, until i saw the price so am looking for cheaper alternatives?

thanks very much

Simon
 
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Hi Simon, if you look at my restoration thread on my alfasud in the alfasud section (alfasud SI Ti Resto) you will see the work I have been doing, it might give you some pointers, feel free to ask any questions through the thread, cheers adi
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Adi,

Thanks, great thread and brilliant attention to detail.

Couple of q's if you don't mind

1. how did you get the existing off,
2. what primer and paint did you use and can it be brushed on ( I know nothing about paint!).
3. What new soundproofing did you use?

Ta very much
 

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Check the air intake for the heating/ventilation for rust, dirt and that the drains are not filled with leafes and the like
Erik
 

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If the scuttle drain tubes have not been replaced in the past then they are likely to be perished and cracked. Have a look under both ends of the dashboard, maybe get someone to pour a bit of water into the scuttles while you look underneath the dash, you will soon see if there are leaks!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks both, I'll check those areas,

Spent the morning trying to get the bitumen soundproofing off, that's going to be a long job!

As for repainting, Adi had used etch primer which I've found is for bare metal so I'll use that on the areas I take right back. There are areas which are very sound though, so I'm guessing these dont need to be taken right back?

What sort of paint should I use to finish it all off, I want to use a brush because of hard to reach areas and don't want overspray, would a hammerite type be good or a 'normal' paint?

Thanks
 

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Hammerite is perfect for that sort of job, but any thick paint will do (used some black paint for outdoor metal etc. 7 years ago, can't see any difference to the surface).
Erik
 

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The main areas which leak are either the scuttle drains as mentioned or the screen itself. Water can get in behind all sorts of areas such as where the glass sits in the rubber as well as where the rubber sits on the frame. It is also possible for rain to trickle into various areas from the roof seal and down the a-post areas.
For the painting I use Bilt-Hamber products - they do a great rust converter - you can brush on top coat or you will need to put something like an enamel like hammerite as primers etc tend to be porous.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks, well it's not the scuttle drain or hose as that's doing it's job fine, I've just a quick look at the screen rubbers and all looks ok, I'll have to get the hose out tomorrow to get to the bottom of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Hi,

Ive had some time to make some progress over the last couple of weeks so thought id post some pics,

When i got all the bitumen off and cleaned it up luckily the floor pans were in pretty good nick, they'd had some repairs in the past which weren't pretty but were solid.

I sanded all the rust off, painted with Hammerite anti rust primer then overpainted.

As mentioned i wanted to use Dynamat until i saw the price but i had some insulation from fitting our hardwood floors and that has worked a treat.

Ive bought a new carpet set from Classic Alfa so i'll be fitting that soon.
 

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Well done, it looks really good. Shame you will be covering it with carpets:)

I've been cleaning up a couple of trailing arms and rear springs today.They were bad enough to do without all the bitumen you had to contend with so I admire your tenacity.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Cheers, yes I'm happy with the results, it took a good few hours and a very big blister to get it off with a flat screw driver.

I've been reading your threads as a suspension overhaul is my next job. Are you keeping things standard or going for the fast road kit?
 

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Simon,
Saw this thread too late, but when I removed that terrible bituminous stuff I used dry ice pellets. They cost a couple of dollars and I just sprinkled them over the floor pans, left them for 10 minutes, the sound deadener subsequently hardened to brittle level and I just chipped it off to the factory primer. Floor pans were squeeky clean 30 minutes later! I then coated with POR-15. This was a couple of years ago. I am actually just reassembling my car at the moment after a body resto and I put the dynamat in yesterday. You are right there doesn't seem to be anything overly special about it as I saw a very similar product in the local electronics store last week for a quarter of the price.
 

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Are you keeping things standard or going for the fast road kit?
I'm keeping things largely standard. I tried a fast road kit some time ago but found it too harsh on bumpy roads so had standard springs put back on plus Koni classic shocks instead of the Bilsteins I had with the kit.
I've gone for heavy duty rubber trailing arm bushes and poly conical bushes at the rear. The front will be standard but I have had adjustable top arms put on so the camber can be adjusted.

In hindsight, and having felt the nasty effects of hard shock absorbers when I acquired the automatic car, I think the Bilsteins may have been to blame for the harsh ride. I've seen other comments about these being more suited to track.

I might be tempted, when all the bushes etc have been replaced, to try uprated springs again, with maybe the Koni classics at the rear and Koni sports at the front. From other peoples comments this seems a good compromise of comfort and handling.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi,

Never mind, it wasn't too bad really but your method sounds 'cool'!

Cheers
 

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Well I have had a similar issue with my GTV6 last week. The front footwell floors (where the jacking points are underneath) had been bodge repaired before and they needed replacing/repairing. I had a big hole in the previous repair on the drivers side. On the passenger side I had a TERRIBLE repair which involved bits of plate welded to each other to reinforce the jacking point (didn't work!).
Another issue was the aftermarket sound proofing I had added.... I had put it over the drain holes... this had caused condenstaion under the soundproofing and thus rust! Fortunately this is just surface rust.

So after a trip to the welders I needed to prep and paint. I had removed some of the original sound proofing and my aftermarket bits. Cleaned up with come white sprit and then washed down with soapy water and then clean water. Once dry I then used Kurust from Hammerite to turn any left over rust to Iron Oxide.

After 3 hours I then used good old Hammerite, in my case Hammered black. Works well in my mind.
Its now dry even though it was -5c last night in Gravesend. Hopefully tonight I'll add some new sound proofing and refit the drain holes (not covering the holes with the proofing this time!).

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ah I've covered over drain holes too, though they all have the rubber plugs in. I can go back and cut a circle out though.

Ta
 
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