Alfa Romeo Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,070 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The movement in my floor pedals has always annoyed me so I decided to remove them whilst refurbing the car. Two bolts and they are free!

My question is two part. both pedals have movement left to right which looks like wear on the shaft, Ive tried to cover with grease which helps a bit but does not fully take up the slack. Has any one experienced this before? do you know if there is any other thicker grease products that would take up the gap?

Also when fitting the clutch spring, do you turn the pedal a full revolution so that it has tension on the spring?

Any help would be appreciated..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,362 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,070 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the link Martin. It looks like the bronze bush has worn on both pedals. Getting them rebushed may be tricky so a s/h set could be the answer... (if i can find a set in good condition)!



Rod, I checked mine out when I got home and there is very little play, no amount of grease will make a difference because of the pressure the pedals are under so you may have to get them rebushed unless you can find a decent s/h set
Interesting thread here
105 standing pedals - pivot bushing
https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Alfa-Romeo-105-ALL-RHD-MODELS-CLUTCH-BRAKE-PEDALS-HOLDERS-USED-/132157024251?hash=item1ec52c27fb
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,832 Posts
there is a fix for these unobtanium bronze bushes: using old soft drink cans.
Normally I'd say yuck to an idea like this but it was Alex who did it, so if it worked for him it outta be OK:)
post 18 here.
floor-mount pedal maintenance? - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

It involved pushing out the 2 bushes, inserting a home made shim made from soft drink can, then reinserting bush inside this (after slicing a little from the split in the bush to allow it to compress more)

personally though, a machine shop should have no problem machining and fitting a bush then you have solved the problem once and for all! you could even fit grease nipples.

a heavy graphite grease might help if you just wanted to replace it as it is.....but I doubt it;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,070 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the link... Great idea on post 18. Fitting the clutch pedal spring seems to take up some of the slack, so I am going to refit the whole unit this evening with plenty of grease and see if it tightens things up a bit. I was going to go the used route but to future proof it may be worth sourcing a machine shop to make some shims..


there is a fix for these unobtanium bronze bushes: using old soft drink cans.
Normally I'd say yuck to an idea like this but it was Alex who did it, so if it worked for him it outta be OK:)
post 18 here.
floor-mount pedal maintenance? - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

It involved pushing out the 2 bushes, inserting a home made shim made from soft drink can, then reinserting bush inside this (after slicing a little from the split in the bush to allow it to compress more)

personally though, a machine shop should have no problem machining and fitting a bush then you have solved the problem once and for all! you could even fit grease nipples.

a heavy graphite grease might help if you just wanted to replace it as it is.....but I doubt it;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,362 Posts
there is a fix for these unobtanium bronze bushes: using old soft drink cans.
Normally I'd say yuck to an idea like this but it was Alex who did it, so if it worked for him it outta be OK:)
post 18 here.
floor-mount pedal maintenance? - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

It involved pushing out the 2 bushes, inserting a home made shim made from soft drink can, then reinserting bush inside this (after slicing a little from the split in the bush to allow it to compress more)

personally though, a machine shop should have no problem machining and fitting a bush then you have solved the problem once and for all! you could even fit grease nipples.

a heavy graphite grease might help if you just wanted to replace it as it is.....but I doubt it;)
That reminds me of a little tweak common in mini circles back the the day where you would cut up some thin metal and whack it into the radius arm bushes to prevent an mot failure, well I was on an extremely tight budget with my first car...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,213 Posts
I couldn’t quite work out how to get the tension in the spring. I tried the full revolution method and snapped the spring!. Had to buy a new one, I then tried fitting it slightly differently and it summed ok. Trouble is I can’t remember how now!.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,070 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I think i've now got the spring fitted correctly... My issue now is and still is that I thought the spring would take up the slack in the clutch pedal movement. ie when you put your foot on the clutch it has around 3 inches of free travel before you feel the pedal starting the resistance.

Any ideas on how to remove the slack? any one?


I couldn’t quite work out how to get the tension in the spring. I tried the full revolution method and snapped the spring!. Had to buy a new one, I then tried fitting it slightly differently and it summed ok. Trouble is I can’t remember how now!.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,213 Posts
You can adjust the length of the push rod between the pedal and the master cylinder. That should dial it out. But it may bring the pedal too high, it’s a balance.
I will try to find time to check if mine has any travel which is ‘ unsprung’ I don’t have any hydraulics connected yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,070 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks there... looking at the push rod its very similar to the brake rod. Am I right in thinking that you need to release the nut and then wind it back in which as you say will draw the pedal closer thus reducing the unsprung distance? Being some what of a novice I am slightly out of my comfort zone with this area of the car.



You can adjust the length of the push rod between the pedal and the master cylinder. That should dial it out. But it may bring the pedal too high, it’s a balance.
I will try to find time to check if mine has any travel which is ‘ unsprung’ I don’t have any hydraulics connected yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,213 Posts
Yes that’s it, you need to lengthen the rod slightly, it will move the pedal upwards. You do need a little bit of slack as it’s important not to be activating the master cylinder by accident.

I’ve just checked my newly fitted one, there is no fluid in at the moment, but I can feel no play at all in the spring part, ie it springs firmly back into place without any floppiness !.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,070 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Ok thanks..

Just tried to dial it out but I have a feeling the fixed nut part which should wind the rod in/out may be turning on its own.. Am i right in thinking the thread bar should turn in/out of the thick bar?

Not sure if you know the answer to this but by any chance should the master cylinder by holding more fluid which would then push the bar out?

Ive taken a video of the foot pedal play and I will try to upload it.

Yes that’s it, you need to lengthen the rod slightly, it will move the pedal upwards. You do need a little bit of slack as it’s important not to be activating the master cylinder by accident.

I’ve just checked my newly fitted one, there is no fluid in at the moment, but I can feel no play at all in the spring part, ie it springs firmly back into place without any floppiness !.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,213 Posts
From memory the thinner threaded rod screws into the larger diameter one and is adjusted for length. The nut locks it once you have it right.
The fluid should fill the cylinder, the piston should come out as far as a circlip which prevents it coming right out. You may find it’s sticking in, if the rubber seals have hardened or the bore rusted and scored.
Mine just stuck in tonight when I checked the spring, I probably need a new one too!.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,070 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Thanks:beer:...

From memory the thinner threaded rod screws into the larger diameter one and is adjusted for length. The nut locks it once you have it right.
The fluid should fill the cylinder, the piston should come out as far as a circlip which prevents it coming right out. You may find it’s sticking in, if the rubber seals have hardened or the bore rusted and scored.
Mine just stuck in tonight when I checked the spring, I probably need a new one too!.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top