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100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #81 ·
I laid the subframe on the floor (sat on wood blocks to protect the paint coating) and added the parts I wanted on it for fitting up to the car


Using all new HT fastenings or re plated bolts the build up began. Now the main subframe bolts are stretch bolts so engineering wise its recommended they are changed.

Firstly the lower control arms are fitted. One of my arms had been changed in the past so it was one new one and the replaced one on the drivers side cleaned up and ball joint re greased and new dust cover fitted.


And fitted


Both fitted. Here are the torques

4410 FRONT SUSPENSION - Alfa - 159 - eLearn - 4CarData


next the engine and gearbox lower mounts. You cant fit these with the subframe in place so they need fitting before .


Next up I fitted the ARB with new bushes (polybush in this instant)



And the steering rack, I found it easier to put the steering rack on at this point rather than once the subframe was in place


For me this was now ready to lift in place. The subframe was then placed under the car in position.


I realised at this point that I hadn't fitted the power steering pipe down the passenger side. I had previously refurbed the whole pipe assembly as I believe these are known to go.


I aligned the frame to make sure the rack lined up with the column hole

100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #82 · (Edited)

Before lifting up dont forget the rubber seal that goes between the rack and bulkhead (I nearly did!!).


The way I fit subframes when not on car lift and doing the job myself is by lifting front and back using a car jack and placing wooden blocks at each corner in stages adjusting alignment as I go.

Alfa designed help as the longer stretch bolts can be used front and back to guide the frame home


Just monitor the steering rack as the column passes through the bulkhead. Before the frame was fully up I connected the second steering rack pipe on the banjo using new dowty seals and the final brackets



With the longer bolts to guide the frame in I pushed the frame fully up and then fitted all the bolts



Centre (not really centre but the middle set)

And rear (sorry no photo at the mo). All torqued to specification as per link above.

And the frame was in place




100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #83 ·
After I fitted the subframe I decided to finish off the front inner arches. I had already completed the front ends with everything removed so it was the main arch areas. The brake pipes were removed so I could gain full access.


the areas were deep cleaned and any surface corrosion treated, I have to say the fronts were better than the rears.


And then sprayed with under seal



Now I was back at the front right of the engine where the auxiliaries are mounted


So firstly the Auxy belt is removed. Access to the tensioner is tight as it nearly always is on a transverse engine. The Spanner sat on the tensioner

Once the belt was removed then then I wanted to remove the steering pump which is mounted on the top of the 3 x auxiliary supplies (steering pump, alternator, ac comp). Because I had got the steering rack overhauled I thought it was best to replace the pump. The best time to do it was whilst the front was off the car.


The steering pump mounting is quite well engineered

3 mounting bolts through the mounting plate to the rear of the pump body


The supply pipe is connected via a banjo and the feed from the reservoir is connected by hose clip

The remaining mounting bolts are accessed through the pump pulley lightening holes


Moved the pipes away and a bit of a tug and the pump was out. Next up I decided to remove the tensioner. Mine was squealing on start up so the bearing was on the way out.

Top bolt on the steering pump carrier plate and the lower bolt on the bottom of the tnesioner. Access is very tight on the bottom bolts.

100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #84 ·


So the old and new steering pump side by side


And the tensioners side by side. The power steering pump was OE and the tensioner is gates.

Next up was the alternator. It only held in place by 2 x bolts. I was very lucky. The top bolt is no problem whatsoever but the bottom bolt can be ahhh!!!!! luckily for me someone had been there before and the bottom bolt had been turned. Few !! if you are unaware of the issue here you go
Removing Alternator on a Brera 2.4 JTDm, is it possible?

Alternator removed to the bench so I could give it a quick overhaul. More for longevity than requirement. With the front of the car off access is easier so i thought it was worth doing

Finally i removed the AC comp so I could give it a good clean. There was plenty of evidence of fridge dye over the unit which showed the seals for the pipes had leaked at some point in the past (or indeed were leaking when i bought the car). Strangely one of the mounting bolts was missing on the AC Comp. I thinks I know why as the fitting back with the auxy belt is a pain. What I would say of a garage did this thats really not very good.


Back the Alternator and I wanted to give it an overhaul and change the brushes, rectifier and bearings if required.
This link best describes the work involved. You do need a very good soldering iron for these units
Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth Mini Van Alternator 2001-2007 3.3L 3.8L | Alternator Starter Rebuild Kits
Once all this was done the unit ready to go back on

This gives you an indication of the top and bottom mounting bolts.

I also removed the mounting plate for the auxiliaries and gave it a good clean


next was the nice part of building back up.
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