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87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Next up the carpets came out. These are split into 3 sections which I thought was brilliant. Easier than one big bit. You will notice I didnt refit the lower B pillar trim at this point. The reason for carpet removal was 3 x fold:-

1. The carpets needed a right good clean. They were chucking.
2. It also means I can check for any water ingress and huck out 12 years fo crap that ahs got under the carpet.
3. I needed to run in a loom for the TI heated seats as my car doesnt have a rear fuse panel in the boot so a new loom was required.

Carpets removed. A few fir tree clips and door sill trim had to be removed/


I cleaned the carpets with a decent wet cleaner and left them to dry. Boy the dirt!!


Then cleaned out the car inside,

next was the loom for the heated seats. I took the drawings from elearn (thanks t members on here for pointing me in the right direction) and came up with my own wiring diagram.


I wont go into the wiring etc but it all went together fairly well. I took the main load from main cable going down the passenger side of the car, The ignition for the coil from the cigarette lighter source in the centre console and the 12V supply from a spare supply in the centre console loom (would have been the second the rear lighter if it had been fitted to this car). I mounted the 50A relay within the centre consol area. Probably not the best place but its out the way and the 2 x in line fuses are accessible under the seats by the front and rear carpet joins. I ran all the earths to a new earth point on the centre tunnel.

Before everything was tidied up you can see the relay and in line fuse in place,


And with the carpets in place, a nice and tidy finish ready for the seats, The seat heater wiring plugs had to be changed to match the one you see in the picture.


I did a few other thinks before putting the carpets back in. I had read about corrosion under the seat cross member on some cars so I cavity waxed these areas. I also preserved the light surface rust where the seats had been sitting and you will notice thin felt pads now sit over the slits where the front of the seat runners slide in. All to protect the metal in that area.

I have just noticed in this photo you can see the new earth point for the heated seat loom on the central tunnel.


the carpets back in once dry and a lot cleaner. You can see the different fir tree clips. 3 x along the rear edge of the rear carpet
1 x each side on the seat cross member for each front seat.
Additionally the lower B post panels have been fitted but not the sill kick plates yet.

I fitted new front clips for the rear bench


I then fitted the rear seats to get them out the way in the garage. The back rest just lift and slot into the housing with their cams. There is also a sound deadening felt which sits between the bench and the seat bench, now in place.


The bench need to be pushed over the hook arrangements you can see in the picture and then the front lugs push into the white housings where the new clips have been fitted. Feeding the rear seat belts through the seat can be a bit fiddly especially when you have hands the size of shovels.


The leather seats were deep cleaned, leather treated and protected before going in.

87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #42 ·
The front drivers seat needed to go the trimmers so it was delivered to my local trimmer whilst I carried on in the cabin


And after repair. The trimmer really is very good and doesn't charge the earth. He also commented on well the seats were made and noted they had a lot of GM parts making them up


And again deep cleaned, leather treated and protected


That's enough of seats (I really like the 159 ti seats). Next up the centre console, sill kick plates and changing the steering wheel for the TI one. I decided to do this before the front seats went back in.

87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #43 ·
firstly I did the Ti sill kick plates. Finding a decent set was difficult and these needed tidying up.


So a good metal polish, got rid of most of the scratches and also the red i


and the i replaced. Im no sign writer but it came out ok


The kick plates are held on to the sill by a single push fitting in the centre and 2 x straight tabs at either end


the straight tabs clip into the clip onto the sill. When removing I would recommend levering with the correct trim tool as close to the tabs and centre pushing fitting as possible.


There is also a screw covered by a black cap in the footwell


And fully fitted. I did remove the door seal when clipping into place and then replaced when clipped in place.

87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
next up the centre console.

First it was cleaned from top to bottom as it was filthy. I added a leather Alfa embroidered lid and an additional USB connection running in the loom inside the unit.




mounting the unit. It sits over a brackets front and rear of the handbrake. These brackets take the 4 x bolts

and the unit bolted in place. I had to lift the handbrake as high as it go to get the unit to slide over. The 4 bolts fitted and covers fitted

there are also 2 x screws that go into the front centee console area under the gear shift


Next up was to replace the lusso steering wheel with the TI wheel. Reading up on the I was really struggling to figure out how to release the airbag unit. Once I got my head around it it really is a an easy system.

My battery was already disconnected but make sure you do tat first and leave for 15-20 minutes.

The lower cowling was first removed so you can gain access to 2 x holes in the rear of the wheel. Using a 5-6mm flat blade screwdriver push into one hole at a time until you feel the screw driver come up against a bit of friction. Turn the screwdriver 90 degrees and it will release the clip. What you are actually doing is pushing the clip in. Once released the side pops out slightly.


Disconnect the wiring connectors


there is also a safety cap over the steering wheel nut which you can see in this pic. You can also see the steering wheel electrical connector for all the controls.

Undo the nut

87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 ·
What I found particularly good was the column and wheel are marked so its impossible to fit out of alignment. I did centralise the steering before starting as thats normal procedure but her are the alignment marks Alfa leave you.


A quick tug and the steering wheel slid off exposing the electrical unit behind.


Fitting was very simple and the reverse of removal. Remember to fit the wheel with the alignment marks and torque the nut to the specified torque

Final fitment


Whilst the seats were out I changed the dash trim on the right hand side as well.

remove the dash end cover and there is a screw in the end of the trim and then the trim is help into the dash on a couple of metal pins pushed into plastic sockets. These babies are v tight


Final interior clean up in readiness for fitting the front seats.


87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I had to change the heated seats plug to match the loom I had fitted.


The seats have lugs on the front that slide into the slots on the front cross member. Also note the new electrical connection for the heated seat loom.


The rear of the seats bolt into rear mounts using torx set screws


The seats are lifted in. Its easier to do without the head rests fitted. I leaned the seat back so I had access to the connectors and in this pic you can see the lugs that slide into the slots on the front cross member.

The seat then slid into place but loose and moved fully forward to connect the seat belt anchor. A plastic cap fits over once torqued up correctly (Safety!!)


then the rear torx set screw fitted and torqued up correctly (Safety!!). The bolts originally had thread lock on them but the correct torque is fine and eases remval in the future


And the drivers seat fitted. Passenger fitting is the same

Next up was the ally dash panels. That's for another evening. :D

87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #47 ·
its been a while. Sorry. The engine bay clutch ect moves on. Found the crank seal leaking when I removed the gearbox, but no signs of oil on the friction plates, however I could see heat on the clutch faces indicating slip.

any way back to the dash panels.

First I started with the main panels. there are other jobs linked to this panel;-
1. The AC was not very climate control more all or nothing
2. I have TI clocks to change out
3. A better head unit.

firstly undoing all the screws that hold the main panel.

Remove the head unit. I haven't used these pins in years so was pleased to dig them out of my toolbox. Insert the pins either side of the headunit and pull inwards, the clips release the head unit adn it can slid out.

Next up I pulled out the top left and right vents using welding rods in a hook method
as described in numerous areas:-

There are 5 screws.
one either side of where the vents have been removed


2 either side of the headunit cage


2 on the base into the centre console


The panel is also clipped into the dash but careful pulling around the edges releases the panel. Its just a matter of undoing all the electrical connections. I started at the top and worked my way down until the panel was released. If I remember rightly:-

1. ignition module
2. Start button
3. all the headunit connections
4. AC unit plug.

First up the easy job of just swapping the TI gauges over.


Just the 3 x screws and the unit also sits into a recess on the left hand side

The old and new units sat together to show the difference


Next up i cleaned out the whole areas. Where the AC unit fan sits was full of crud. Probably not helping the AC module understand the cabin temp but I found worse (to follow).

Next up I stripped off all the modules on the back of this panel.


Firstly the screws holding the ignition module and start button were removed (all tiny torx)


87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 ·
then the head unit cage bolts


And AC unit


On removal of the AC unit I had a look and the module fan was wedged with crud.
This would definitely be affecting the AC measuring the cabin temp .


Rather than blowing out I decided to strip the unit down so I could clean the whole area.

Just undoing all the screws on the back and easing the side clips gains you access. be careful with the PCB but is wll fairly easy and the unit was cleaned out like new


Next a quick clean of the replacement panel. There are scratches where key rings have rubbed but I
I imagine most cars have this at this age.

Rebuild was the reverse of strip down

Front view


At this point i also fitted the TI gauges


I then connected all the looms back onto their modules (not head unit) and clipped the panel back in the area. At this point I didn't screw in the panel screws because O wanted to test the unit to make sure all the modules worked.


All good and the AC now back to climate control so just 13 years of crud casued the issue.

1,582 Posts
Brilliant thread
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87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #51 ·
next up the ally strips on the dash and door cards

Firstly the strip over the passenger airbag.
Its held by a screw at the end under the clipped on cover into the speed fastener


Then there are 4 x metal pins that slot into these sockets. The pins sit very tightly in the socket so ease away gently. They will give in the end


The door cards need removing for the door card ally strip -

on the back side of the door card you can see where the 2 x plastic pins are welded and a central clip. I drilled the pins carefully out then undid the centre clip



The pins on the ally TI strip were then prepped leaving clear holes that will accept screws.


The strip was then offered up in place and screws from behind to hold them tight


All fited


Whilst the door cards were off I changed the folding mirrors for the TI satin mirrors

87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 ·
whilst the front door cards were off I removed the plastic panel on the back side of the mirror inside the door. It just unclips

giving access to 2 of the 3 a screws holding the mirror in place


The 3rd screw is under the rubber seal held in place by a small push button which you can see on the right hand side of the top picture. All the screws are torx head screws


I also changed the modules. Not sure if you have to and Im sure someone on here can answer that question fully. 3 x screws and 2 loom connectors


with the torx screws removed the mirror units can be removed


Fitting was reversal of removal. Just make sure you get the foam padding on the back of the mounting plate sat right as this stops water ingress


.The mirrors were fitted and also new mirror glass was fitted to both sides as there was delamination on both units. Is this normal for a 159?


With the door cards fitted I then fitted the last bit of ally trim which was the gearstick surround. This needed a good clean and the chrome trim was cracked in a couple of places but its no too bad.

The trim just clips in place. The gearknob was also renewed for a new TI unit. The gearknob is bolted to the top of the stick and then a new plastic gear pattern cap was fitted over the top. I did lacquer it before fitting to give longevity

So the dash ally panels were complete and I prefer the TI look



The final interior jobs is to replace the head unit which I haven't got around to buying yet and change the speedo and rev counter for the TI set which I will go through in the next posts. I also had a couple of small jobs to do whilst working in this area:-

Front drivers door b pillar trim needed replacing as it was rusty in a couple of places and the drivers rear door strap needed replacing as it was clicking loudly due to corrosion, probably due to a lack of maintenance in the past.

87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #53 ·
just realised reading back over that I hadn't posted up how I converted to TI instrument cluster.
I had read that you can just change but then need to connect to the can bus to update. Not having the software I saw this as a bit of a pain. I have had plenty of clusters in bits previously and with care they can be stripped to component parts.

Firstly the top cover above the cluster needs removing to access the screws. It just unclips


This gives you access to the securing screws


I found the cluster to be a really tight fit and it needed lifting slightly from the bottom to edge out. it was harder than I envisaged to be honest.
2 x loom connectors on the back and it lifts out


Next up stripping the cluster down to clock faces

firstly remove the top plastic cover


The top cover is held with clips around the side of the cluster. Gentle easing and lifting releases these clips


Next is the perspex and black surround. I removed the top and bottom indocation covers just to keep them safe


Then again gently releasing the clips around the edge of the cluster


and the next stage is off and I'm down to the dials.


The next thing to do it release the needles. Whenever I have done this just make sure you note the position before taking off. Sometimes if the needles sit on as top they need to be moved over the stop to see where they actually sit. In Alfa;s case these are not on a stop so I just marked their position.
I use a fork (yep a fork) under the needle and gently prise up. Always protect the gauge face because they can mark really easily. Also note the 159 gauge face is embossed so is contoured around the edges which you definitely dont want to damage


The gauge faces just lift off

87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #54 ·


So stripped down the TI clocks the same way to get the TI faces.


Building up is the reverse of strip down. Everything is cleaned before putting back and then carefully clipped back together. When putting the needles back on make sure you align them with your marks previously made. You can feel the needles clip on when they are in position. Dont be overly aggressive with the needles because the mechanisms can be easily broken but its not rocket science


Everything connected up and tested before final fit up. All working and reading correctly with no fault code on the mileage


Cluster complete. onto the door strap and door b post trim

73 Posts
Both rear arch liners removed and the state of the metalwork was found underneath. The Arch liners were boggin. I think someone had been rallying in the car on a farm.

To remove the liners there is a grommet on the front end into the rear of the sill and about 10 plastic type nuts that go over spikes welded around the wheel arch. I will show them on re install photos.

Any way with the Arches removed this is what greeted me

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Doesn't look too bad but this is a closer look

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So the first thing to do was get the angle grinder out with the wire brush attachment and attack all the corrosion. Thankfully no holes were found and most of the surface corrosion was around spot welds and un protected areas

View attachment 947815

All areas treated with a rust converter

View attachment 947816

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Jonc, I'm also enjoying your work and your passion. What rust converter and underseal are you using. I've tried all sorts of combinations but eventuallt it comes back.

87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Hello Andy. I tend to use the rust converter from Frost who have been supplying classic car products for years.

Underseal wise I prefer wax based products, waxoyl had seen me ok over many years. The key is the prep really I suppose. We can't stop rust, once started it will happen. What I tend to do is attack the area heavily with either blasing or a heavy duty knot brush on an angle grinder, then treat. Allow to full dry then underseal.

No domestic underseal us permanent though. I think most companies recommend checking regularly.

For cavities I have used Dinitrol mostly.

For chassis and suspension components I use Corroless. It's a paint we have used in my industry for years and It holds up in sea water environments.

Unfortunately metal rusts, it's a natural phenomena and we just try to keep it at bay as best we can.

Thanks for the comments. The garage is my happy place tbh.

87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #59 ·
a couple of fairly easy jobs then into the engine bay.

First the B pillar trim on the front drivers door needed replacing. It had been knocked or chips at some points and there were signs of rust.

Firstly lower the window and carefully pull back the rubber seal/window channel rubber and trim. Under it are 3 x screws.
You will notice I pulled up the window channel rubber,


Undo the screws and carefully remove the trim.

Refitting is fairly easy although I found a couple of things to watch for.

1. Make sure you get the rear lip over the edge of the door


2. Make sure you get the window channel trim back in place. It was a bit tight but my favoured washing up liquid helped to slide the rubber.

The felt trim then goes back

Then the window channel clips onto the window frame edge.

The new trim will have to weather a bit but its better than the rust bits on the original

87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #60 ·
The rear drivers door door strap was relatively easy

First the door card comes off which is very similar to the link posted earlier in this thread.

Then remove the speaker and unplug the loom connector. There is a seal between the speaker and the ally panel so this needs refitting when you replace the speaker to stop water ingress


there are 4 fastenings on the door strap. 2 x torx set screws into the body and 2 x nyloc nuts on the door side.

Once undone remove the door strap through the speaker hole.
Old and new side by side


re fitting is the reverse but as I say remember to re seal the speaker

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