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87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Sorry its been a while. The project moves on in the back ground so the photos are stacking up.

Rear light clusters removed

The cluster in the bootlid has 3 x M6 studs with nuts on them, easy to access and undo as the bootlid cover is off


And the clusters in the rear quarters are held in the same way with the same size nuts.
A 10mm deep socket or spanner gains you access.


The lights were removed and cleaned from top to toe. All the bulb holders checked and bulbs replaced where needed.


Next up was to remove the rear bumper and this was part of the reason the light cluster in the rear quarters needed to come out.

So holding the rear bumper on
1. 2 x M6 Torx flat head screws in the rear light housings hence the light removal

2. 2 x M6 up underneath the rear of the bumper
3. 2 x Self tappers each side running through the rear arch liners into the bumper. These were really seized on mine and properly corroded. Eventually got all 4 out by different methods.
4. 1 x self tapper each side that are at the top of the arch and screw into the bumper
5. Under the bumper on the sides there are 2 x further self tappers which screw up into the rear arch liners.
6. Don't forget the loom for the parking sensors and number plate lights needs need disconnecting.


The bumper is then clipped on both sides and the rear.
I normally do the side first then the rear. A sharp tug on both sides then the rear and the bumper is free.

You can see the rear clip arrangement and just make out the side clips. All held in place with the M6 flat head torx screws.

You can also see the crash bar set up which I have to say is a bit of design on this car.


And the bumper removed and stored safely.

Next up rear end strip down

Alfa 166 Ti, Giulietta Veloce
436 Posts
Loving your work - very detailed. This is going to become a complete 'how to' for the 159 on a variety of items! Invaluable.
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87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
its been a while. Sorry.

In reality the car is coming on leaps and bounds, The drivers seat is at the trimmers, The heated seat loom is run in, most of the Ti interior is fitted (dashboard area to finish) so my photos are miles behind the reality :oops:

Back to thread.

Crash bar and rear clip unit removed and I was surprised to see that the body was sprayed with the crash bar fitted


The crash beam and rear clip affair removed


The rear bumper initially cleaned inside and out but it needed a good mop as it is quite heavily scratched on the leading edge under the bootlid.



Next up was the rear wheel arches. Taking the rear self tapper screws out in the arch liners to remove the bumper was a PITA so I wanted to remove the Arch liners and see what was going on underneath.

87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Both rear arch liners removed and the state of the metalwork was found underneath. The Arch liners were boggin. I think someone had been rallying in the car on a farm.

To remove the liners there is a grommet on the front end into the rear of the sill and about 10 plastic type nuts that go over spikes welded around the wheel arch. I will show them on re install photos.

Any way with the Arches removed this is what greeted me


Doesn't look too bad but this is a closer look




So the first thing to do was get the angle grinder out with the wire brush attachment and attack all the corrosion. Thankfully no holes were found and most of the surface corrosion was around spot welds and un protected areas


All areas treated with a rust converter




87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Then the whole areas were treated with underseal on both arches. I will do behind the shocks when I change them and probably need to do some remedial work behind the brake hoses when i change them. You will notice I removed the ABS cables totally.

You can also see the numerous studs/spikes that hold the liners in place




I also did the same treatment to the boot underside rear end whilst the bumper was off


And just added a bit of paint where the crash bar mounts for added protection and the rear end was totally cleaned down


After all this the nice job of fitting up.

The crash bar was totally cleaned, undersealed on the back and bottom sides and remounted on the 4 x studs with the nuts. I did notice that the studs were M10 metric fine. In this photo you can see the M6 mounting points for the rear clip arrangement (again using the flat head M6 torx bolts.


As I said before the crash bar set up is a thing of beauty and not an arrangement I have seen before. I suspect it will take a bit of knock and safeguard the rear bumper and the rear crumple zone (no I don't want to test it:D)


and the rear end complete ready to receive the rear bumper


The rear bumper was then cleaned properly inside and out. I did check the rear sensor loom for mounting and defects whilst I was here. Additionally new speed washers fitted (you can see them at the ends of the bumper) as mine were knackered. This is where the self tappers for the arch liners screw into the bumper


87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
As I said the bumper needed a good mop to get rid of a whole load of scratches. There was some glue also on the bumper but with patience and hot water if eventually came off without removing the lacquer.

These photos dont quite show the difference pre and post mop.






The Bumper was then fitted up.

Firstly offered up at the back and the bolts in the light housing put in hand tight and loose so they held the bumper in place (and it didn't fall off). I then worked from both side front end of the bumper and clipped into place on both side and at the rear.

After that i fitted the bolts in the light housing, the bolts underneath the boot floor, The self tapper into the rear quarters and re connected the wiring loom and remounted it.

you will notice I haven't mentioned the arch liners yet.




Bumper fitted back in place. It would seem mad that I have mopped the bumper but left the JTDM badge in place but there is a reason for that. It will give me the correct alignment when I fit the TI badges.

Next up the arch liners go back in

87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Firstly the rear arch liners needed a couple of repairs. I did umm and ah about replacing but I couldn't find a decent OE spec pair.

So the the liners were cleaned, This took an age and they were leaping


And then the couple of repairs were made by plastic welding the cracked areas


And then fitted back on

Looking in the arch and you can see the plastic nuts over the welded spires


Looking to the rear with new fastenings


Looking forward and you can see the grommet into the rear of the sill and some of the nuts over the spires.


Now onto rear lights and boot

87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
The lights were fitted back in. I did use new gaskets and I see these areas as possible water ingress areas. Then the electrical connector was fitted (4 x lights in total)


Next up the trim panels

I tested the rear light to make sure they were working then fitted the boot lid trim panel


The side panels in the boot were then fitted. The mad floor fir trip clips which go into plastic sockets in the floor.


Load restraint hooks fitted.

And the fir tree clip into the roof of the boot and a plastic nut onto the stud

The rear plastic trim is well held in place.

2 x plastic clips clip into holes in the boot rear. When removing this trim you need to pry very close to the clips so you dont do any damage. Its quite tight


The trim is then held in place with 3 self tappers (centre and both edges)

2 x Load restraining rings

and 2 x flat head Torx M6 bolts in the top


The base was then fitted and boot complete

87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I also had to change the boot struts. Both mine were cracked on the heads which reading on here I believe is a 159 issue


Very easy to change. If you remove one at at a time the boot just holds itself with the need to support. Just remove the spring clips around the ball and the struts come off.
The new ones just clip in place. Correct alignment is key for ease of fit.

I used a company I have used a few times for the struts rather than OEM ones.


And so the rear end is finished. I am replacing the exhaust but that for;) later


Next up into the interior

87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Blimey its been a while. The interior is now finished and Im in the engine bay but my post is miles behind:rolleyes:

I have gone from this




To This






Very happy with the finished result and well worth the effort. You will notice the head unit is not fitted. I will get and aftermarket unit with android play and satnav to fit.

So the story of getting there:-


87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
First effort was to take out the seat so I could get around the interior. The rear bench was loose when I bought the car some someone hadn't replaced the front clips when lifting it in past. to remove lift up from the front to break the front clips then push the bench backwards and up to free the hooks underneath.

If you look in this photo you can see where the front clips should be in the square holes in the carpet edge and the hooks you have to free are either side of the black fuel tank cover .


to remove the rear seat back is dead easy on the folding rear seats. Tilt the seat forward and align the cams on the seat ends with the gaps in the locating brackets and they slide out. I did have to loosen one of the nuts to align one cam. I didnt take any photos sorry

Front seats are fairly easy to remove.
Slide the seat all way forward so you can access the plastic trim over the seat belt anchor. Pull small plastic trim off The seatbelt anchor and undo the t50 torx bolt.


The Wiring connector under seat is a slide out lock type undo that and pull plug off.
Remove 2 rear bolts T50 Torx bolts. These have been thread locked in when new so be careful to use a good quality Torx socket when undoing because they are fairly tight. I reckon you could round these off.

Tilt seat forward and slightly pull back to release the front hook anchor points and man handle seat out.

The interior now is easily accessed for all that has to be removed


I then started at the back of the car and worked my around removing all the trim.
Firstly I wanted to do to the parcel shelf.

The C pillar trims had to be removed to gain access These are held in place but clips and 2 x allen key type screws. You can see the positions of the screws from this photo. The upper under a plastic cover marked air bag and the lower is fairly deep at the bottom where you cans see the semi circle cut out.


These covers also clip under the parcel shelf edge so I undid the M6 nuts (x 3) in the boot so the parcel shelf was free to lift slightly.

When pulling the trim off just make sure you get as close as you can to the plastic clips which you can see in this photo.


Once both removed you can see the curtain airbags for the rear. You will alos notice a red extension for one of clips.


Once the trims are removed I then removed the parcel shelf. 1 electrical clip to remove and a bit of lifting and cajoling and the parcel shelf lifted out.

This picture also shows good idea of what is required to retro fit folding seats.


Next up Parcel shelf refurb......

Alfa 159 1.9 JTDm Sportwagon
5,868 Posts
Where did you get the armrest cover from?

87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Next up was the Parcel shelf refurb. I had picked up a TI shelf but the material was very bleached so I decided to recover it


Firstly all the plastic trim had to be removed. All the trim parts are held on with speed locking washers over plastic lugs,


To make sure I didnt break any of the plastic lugs I cut all the washers and removed them.


And unclipped the wiring and removed the high level light


Once stripped down I did try and remove the material but boy its on the moulding and going nowhere


So I decided to cover over the top. The material I bought is actually a headlining material but its the right colour and pattern but it has a foam padding which causes a couple of fitting issues for the plastics. I also use high temp spray impact adhesive as this component come under intense temps through the rear screen.

cloth laid up


Glued and pressed into position



And all fitted back up. The foam padding did make fitting the plastic tight at times but with careful teasing it all went back together using new speedfit locking washers


87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Next up back in the car leaving the parcel shelf to one side to dry and cure.

So the next job was to remove the headlining and centre consol. The centre consol is held on with 4 x bolts under plastic caps on the sides


2 x self tappers under the gear surround

Disconnect the white electrical connector on the drivers side (I used part of this loom later). unclip the leather gaiter around the handbrake and slide off. There is a plastic clip under the gaiter rear end that needs unclipping. I actually broke mine in one place being over zealous but had a spare. I then lifted the handbrake to the highest position it would go and slipped of the centre console


Next up is the work to remove the head lining

87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I Started at the front and worked my way around the car.

Firstly the front interior light unit

Held in with 4 x strong clips. Using a flat spatula I could push up and get the clips to push in.


I thought the clever thing here was the position of the clips is indicated by 4 x dots on the plastic moulding. Hopefully you can see them indicating next the spring clips in this photo


This unit had 3 wiring loom connectors to disconnect and it could be removed.
Once removed you can see 2 set screws that need removing in the cubby hole left in the headlining


Next up the sun visors were removed. This are help in place with set screws under caps.



And disconnect the electrical connectors for the lights in the sun visors

Next up the grab handles. 2 screws per handle under hinged covers


The rear interior light is removed as per the front interior (but easier) and there are a couple of screws under caps on the rear of the headlining near the rear window.

Next up this trim all needs removing


87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Starting at the bottom the sill trims need removing.

The rear is held with a screw and clips on the sill. Its not the best picture but you can see the manual boot pull on the passenger side which sits under the rear bench.

Once unscrewed I used a trim removal tool to carefully prize off


Then the front sill cover was removed. This is held in place with a screw under a cover in the footwell and clips on the sill


The front sill covers has lugs that clip into the spring sockets and the normal plastic clips which insert into the whole. Carefully prize up with the trim removal tool (seen in the picture) to remove.


Next the B pillar lower plastic trim. This is held really solidly 4 x serrated clips which go into spring sockets. I imagine if this panels puled too hard in the wrong place it would crack. The only reason I say this is because my drivers side was cracked so needed replacing. probably from a previous repair.

a picture of the 4 x clips


And the sockets in the pillar


I found the best way to removed was by getting my fingers as close to the each clip as possible and pulling sharply. These clips could break as well so it might be worth have a couple of spares.

The reason the sill covers were removed was because they located into the lower trim panel and there is a screw to the rear.

Once removed this allows access to the lower bolts on the upper panel


87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Nearly there for the interior trim

The B pillar upper trim has the 2 x screws shown above and one under the cap.

The seat belt then needs sliding out through the clip, Im not sure how these react with age but U had the feeling the trip was quite brittle so I was very careful sloting the seat belt through


With everything removed the only think holding the headlining in place is the door rubbers. Each one overlaps the headlining.


Once the rubber are removed then the headlining will drop. As i wasnt keeping this lining I wasn't bothered about damaging but I wanted to use it as a template to get it out of the car so was very carefull with it.

After a bit of trial and error I took it out through the drivers side rear door diagonally through the aperture. It did need bending slightly but being very careful I didnt damage or crease the lining. This meant I knew how to get the new lining in.


Old and new side by side

The new one was then slid into place and rested on the door rubbers.


Rebuild was the reverse of taking out.

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