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gas blow lamp ..heat it..very hot.. fast quench with a lot of water.. keep doing it until its free.. .................(thermal shock)

tapping the joint splitter in a wee way can help get things moving..
 

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tapping the joint splitter in a wee way can help get things moving..
+1. That's how I managed to remove the lower pinch bolt. Is the bolt turning?




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Discussion Starter #7
I couldn't get anything turning, bolt or nut , even after hinging the brake caliper up for better access. Didn't help that nut is 17mm bolt is 15mm!. So badly rusted that heads are rounding off even with hex socket head rather than bihex.
Nut splitter will be hunted down in garage......
 

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A Metrinch socket or spanner should shift it if the hex has rounded off.

If you use a single hex socket then it may not even go over the hex if it is damaged.

They can be a right bugger to undo.
 

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I done both sides, the offside pinch bolt was remove by prising the joint slightly. The nearside was a complete ***t to remove, ended up rounding the head of the bolt, so got angry with an angle grinder and cut the head off, then knocked the bolt shank out.
 

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I couldn't get anything turning, bolt or nut , even after hinging the brake caliper up for better access. Didn't help that nut is 17mm bolt is 15mm!. So badly rusted that heads are rounding off even with hex socket head rather than bihex.
Nut splitter will be hunted down in garage......
I've purchased one recently just for this job!...........then found an old one in the garage!
 

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Are you talking about the wishbone balljoint to hub bolt? If so I went through the same pain. Even when grinded off, it wasn't shifting. In the end I lost it, grinded through the hub and cost myself £100 in the process!
 

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If its the wishbone outer ball joint to hub pinch bolt then I've also had this problem. A blowtorch was the solution as I remember. Remember not to get it too hot - its just the nut you need hot so it expands relative to the bolt. You want the bolt itself relatively cool. I then hammered a smaller socket onto the rounded off nut.
Then new original nuts and bolts from Alfa. Perfect now! You'll get there!

James
 

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Sorry to go on about them but I can vouch for cobalt steel drill bits like these. Once you've tried them you won't want to go back to HSS again and any recalcitrant bolt/nut/ball joint yields very easily. So easily in fact that you have to be careful not to drill into anything you shouldn't. Best to check the available depth and wrap a piece of tape round the bit as a gauge before you start.
If you are in the situation where the part you are replacing is going to be trashed anyway- try one first. It's a far more accurate effect than using heat and won't damage local rubber boots, brake pipes, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The heat/quench trick works. :) I used a small pen type gas solder flame, easier to direct exactly where you want heat withouf destroying rubber boots and bits of plastic/cable etc.
 

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The heat/quench trick works. :) I used a small pen type gas solder flame, easier to direct exactly where you want heat withouf destroying rubber boots and bits of plastic/cable etc.
Was the bolt seized or just the nut?

Assuming it was the bolt (like mine is) where did you direct the heat and what did you use/how did you quench it?

I'll be doing this when I get the rear subframe back in and start concentrating on the front.

I had a go once before and managed to get the nut loose but ended up with it stripping the thread.

Currently refurbishing the brakes, new disks and pads to fit
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Nuts were rusted and tight as sh!te. It required heat/quench and a narrow hex 17mm socket in electric impact wrench to get nuts going. The bolt shifted on a couple of VERY heavy taps with the hammer once I had managed to get the nut to the end of the bolt. The nut (both) was damn tight all the way to the end of the bolt and I manged to pull a shoulder muscle in the process.....:rolleyes:

I wanted to do my discs and pads but just didn't have time and couldn't get discs delivered quick enough. Alternative Autos have original Brembo discs at £45 each. My local motor factor, who is usually good wanted £120 +vat! for Mintex
 

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Nuts were rusted and tight as sh!te. It required heat/quench and a narrow hex 17mm socket in electric impact wrench to get nuts going. The bolt shifted on a couple of VERY heavy taps with the hammer once I had managed to get the nut to the end of the bolt. The nut (both) was damn tight all the way to the end of the bolt and I manged to pull a shoulder muscle in the process.....:rolleyes:

I wanted to do my discs and pads but just didn't have time and couldn't get discs delivered quick enough. Alternative Autos have original Brembo discs at £45 each. My local motor factor, who is usually good wanted £120 +vat! for Mintex
Sounds easier than mine!!! (but probably not) Got my nut to the end of the bolt and belted the hell out of it.....no way would it move, but i hadn't applied heat.

Just got hold of some standard disks front and back (QH) and EBC pads front and back £110 all in from Sutton Auto Factors, local to me.
 

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32mm
 
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