Exhaust manifold removal
Does anyone know if it is possible to remove the rear exhaust manifold on a V6 GTV with the engine in situ? I need to repair / replace the heatshield beneath it and cannot do it without removing the manifold first. It looks as though I may have to remove the alternator first, is this the case?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
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1,164 Posts
Yes it is relatively conveniently, to start disconnecting the battery.
Then disconnect cables, hoses and wires that are connected to the engine/gearbox, mark them with a "flag" of masking tape where you write where they belong, it helps you a lot when the engine is put back, remove the front part of the exhaust system.
The thick cable that goes to the starter and alternator is best to loosen where it connects in its junction box on the left wing and the two thin wires that goes to the starter and alternator are easiest to disconnect on the connector who is under the black cover on the middle of the firewall.
Brake calipers loosen from wheel upright and is tied up onto the shock absorbers.
The ABS sensors can be tight in the wheel uprights so it is usually easiest to disconnecting them in the engine compartment and allowing them to remain in the wheel uprights.
Then it's just a matter of loosening tie rod ends and the bolts that hold shock absorber brackets and wheel uprights, bolts that hold the oil cooler, subframe, upper engine mount, and the two front / lower engine mounts to get the whole package out.
To get better access first remove front bumper and wheel arcs.
Then disconnect cables, hoses and wires that are connected to the engine/gearbox, mark them with a "flag" of masking tape where you write where they belong, it helps you a lot when the engine is put back, remove the front part of the exhaust system.
The thick cable that goes to the starter and alternator is best to loosen where it connects in its junction box on the left wing and the two thin wires that goes to the starter and alternator are easiest to disconnect on the connector who is under the black cover on the middle of the firewall.
Brake calipers loosen from wheel upright and is tied up onto the shock absorbers.
The ABS sensors can be tight in the wheel uprights so it is usually easiest to disconnecting them in the engine compartment and allowing them to remain in the wheel uprights.
Then it's just a matter of loosening tie rod ends and the bolts that hold shock absorber brackets and wheel uprights, bolts that hold the oil cooler, subframe, upper engine mount, and the two front / lower engine mounts to get the whole package out.
To get better access first remove front bumper and wheel arcs.
Joined
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1,210 Posts
Surely someone has managed to replace the manifold without having to drop the engine?
I've got a blow from the rear manifold somewhere. I'm hoping it's a case of removing short downpipe, undoing the rear manifold, cleaning up the mating faces, new gaskets and then back together.....or is this just wishful thinking? I've had a good look over the manifold top & bottom but cannot isolate the blow.
I've got a blow from the rear manifold somewhere. I'm hoping it's a case of removing short downpipe, undoing the rear manifold, cleaning up the mating faces, new gaskets and then back together.....or is this just wishful thinking? I've had a good look over the manifold top & bottom but cannot isolate the blow.
Well, these are my plans to deal with my exhaust issue (which may mean getting to the rear manifold:
Plan A: I am going to clean up the flange then assess what it looks like. I am then going to attempt to cut through the weld...if I can, then I will clean and file the rest of the flange for the fit.
Plan B: If I can't do the above, I will cut the down-pipe near the flange, tilt the engine forward by a few inches (I have seen a couple of 147 GTA posts that do this) and have enough room to remove the manifold and assess...worst case, I buy a rear manifold.
Plan C: If I can's do the above, where I cut the pipe before the flange, I will cut the new pipe and fit onto the cut pipe.
Plan D: I lift the engine and do a few more tasks with the engine out.
I will post pictures on here as it seems some people may want to do this in the future?
Plan A: I am going to clean up the flange then assess what it looks like. I am then going to attempt to cut through the weld...if I can, then I will clean and file the rest of the flange for the fit.
Plan B: If I can't do the above, I will cut the down-pipe near the flange, tilt the engine forward by a few inches (I have seen a couple of 147 GTA posts that do this) and have enough room to remove the manifold and assess...worst case, I buy a rear manifold.
Plan C: If I can's do the above, where I cut the pipe before the flange, I will cut the new pipe and fit onto the cut pipe.
Plan D: I lift the engine and do a few more tasks with the engine out.
I will post pictures on here as it seems some people may want to do this in the future?
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24 Posts
Its worth a check on the mounting against the block , the downpipe itself might be ok.
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