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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone,

So I'm working through the list of problems on the new old Spider. The most vexing is this:

On the dash the little green car isn't lit (might just be a bulb right?), but the doors, boot and bonnet red open lights are permanently on.

954927


Now, is the next thing related?

Drivers door:

1. Window drop does not work and micro switch appears to be dead no matter how I adjust it!
2. Locks bounce (maybe a separate issue and that applies to both doors to be fair)
3. Main courtesy light does not light when drivers door is open
4. Drivers door puddle light is not lit
5. Drivers door window does work on switch, but when it hits the top it drops a cm

On top of this central locking does not work at all, probably due to the door lock bounce I'd imagine.

Passenger door, window drop works, light comes on both courtesy and door puddle when opening it.

Trying to work out if these issues are related, or separate, or a mixture. The dash light thing seems to be indicating something wider is amiss?
 

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Sounds like problems with your windows/cxentral lockng computer. the one vlocated behind the glovebox. They are as scarce as rocking horse doodoo here in Australia It controls boith central locking as well as the power window functions. They normally fail on the RHS functions because in RHD cars the right side gets the most use.
 

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bouncing locks can be mechanical , so I’d take the door cards off and check the mechanisms , normally the passenger side seizes and stops both from working , if you’re feeling lazy you could spray some silicone speay into the interior lock button holes and use the key to gently Free the mechanism ....

if this doesn’t work its door cards off ,

main courtesy lights come off easy , check bulbs then voltage to it , if borked replace bulbs or whole unit with used (£ 25)
drivers door puddle light is likely to be voltage , bulb or again place with new used unit ( cheap)

the fact that the window drops an inch when you use the manual switch implies the car thinks the door is open so you hav some related issues all caused by the the car thinking all the doors are open ..the window dropping when the door opens is part of the auto function ..so in your case it’s reversed .


I agree with the above sounds like the central locking module has gone and other issues are related ...but it’s worth checking the simple things first...

things like this normally flatten the battery before they blow bulbs as all the lights stay on when The car is locked ,so it sounds like a problem that been going on a while , the car not being lit in the binnacle could be because the Tiny led bulbs have gone ...binnacle is easy to remove and dismantle two screws and the connectors ..

worst case replace binnacle , they’re not coded , however the mileage will not show as before , so you’ll have to be honest when you sell If is significantly different from the mileage you have .

good luck..!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
bouncing locks can be mechanical , so I’d take the door cards off and check the mechanisms , normally the passenger side seizes and stops both from working , if you’re feeling lazy you could spray some silicone speay into the interior lock button holes and use the key to gently Free the mechanism ....

if this doesn’t work its door cards off ,

main courtesy lights come off easy , check bulbs then voltage to it , if borked replace bulbs or whole unit with used (£ 25)
drivers door puddle light is likely to be voltage , bulb or again place with new used unit ( cheap)

the fact that the window drops an inch when you use the manual switch implies the car thinks the door is open so you hav some related issues all caused by the the car thinking all the doors are open ..the window dropping when the door opens is part of the auto function ..so in your case it’s reversed .


I agree with the above sounds like the central locking module has gone and other issues are related ...but it’s worth checking the simple things first...

things like this normally flatten the battery before they blow bulbs as all the lights stay on when The car is locked ,so it sounds like a problem that been going on a while , the car not being lit in the binnacle could be because the Tiny led bulbs have gone ...binnacle is easy to remove and dismantle two screws and the connectors ..

worst case replace binnacle , they’re not coded , however the mileage will not show as before , so you’ll have to be honest when you sell If is significantly different from the mileage you have .

good luck..!
Thanks so much for the feedback and pointers.

Just to clarify. The dash door open lights are only on when the ignitions on, so battery safe for now.

Also, the passenger door when open triggers the main courtesy interior light, so the bulbs fine.

I agree in that the main issue ( well one if them anyway)seems to be the drivers door thinking its open but its not re the lights and window and the opposite re the interior and puddle lights. All very odd.

Drivers door card been off, lock mechanism seems ok, cable in correct place etc. Will check passenger door lock and the cable inside next.

Both doors open fine on the key and interior handles. Maybe the passenger door feels a little stiff.... maybe

Also I can hear the central locking fire before the locks bounce up, so maybe some hope there?
 

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maybe the microswitch in the doorlock, indicating lock/unlock door open/closed ?
 

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Sounds like problems with your windows/cxentral lockng computer. the one vlocated behind the glovebox. They are as scarce as rocking horse doodoo here in Australia It controls boith central locking as well as the power window functions. They normally fail on the RHS functions because in RHD cars the right side gets the most use.
All of your symptoms point to the N82 Integrated Services Control unit.
What is your car's date of manufacture? - There were several changes to the wiring around locks, windows and alarms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
All of your symptoms point to the N82 Integrated Services Control unit.
What is your car's date of manufacture? - There were several changes to the wiring around locks, windows and alarms.
It's a 2001 car, but I can see it was manufactured in 2000 according to a stamp on a piece of interior trim
 

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I think you have two issues that appear related but are not.

The dash lights:
Did these ever work since you acquired the car?
Each one of the doors, the boot and bonnet are separately connected LED. They receive positive voltage in the cluster and are grounded at the device they monitor. Any one of these triggers the 'little green car' to light. (It is hard to believe that all of these triggers have failed to ground). I don't know how the cluster is wired internally but it may be possible that the 'little green car' illumination has failed to ground and turning on the four LED.

The door lock bouncing:
The lock module compares the lock state across both doors and if it does not match, reverses the lock. Screen Shot 2021-06-08 at 09.49.31.png

Given that your passenger door lights and windows work, I think your issue is the microswitch inside P10, right hand door lock. You can check it to an extent by removing connector P10B and checking for continuity across pins 1 and 2 in the lock while functioning the lock with a key - it should change state from continuity to no-continuity.


I have no idea how the non-functioning alarm may affect all this but I bet it intercepts signals from the triggers at each door/boot/bonnet. It too could be failed to ground, turning on the LED. The (suspected) failed P10 microswitch will also be telling the alarm that a door is always open and not allowing it to set (the alarm might be fully functional and the previous owner assumed it was not working). Is it possible to unplug the alarm entirely?

These are my thoughts - other people with more knowledge, please chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I think you have two issues that appear related but are not.

The dash lights:
Did these ever work since you acquired the car?
Each one of the doors, the boot and bonnet are separately connected LED. They receive positive voltage in the cluster and are grounded at the device they monitor. Any one of these triggers the 'little green car' to light. (It is hard to believe that all of these triggers have failed to ground). I don't know how the cluster is wired internally but it may be possible that the 'little green car' illumination has failed to ground and turning on the four LED.

The door lock bouncing:
The lock module compares the lock state across both doors and if it does not match, reverses the lock. View attachment 955000

Given that your passenger door lights and windows work, I think your issue is the microswitch inside P10, right hand door lock. You can check it to an extent by removing connector P10B and checking for continuity across pins 1 and 2 in the lock while functioning the lock with a key - it should change state from continuity to no-continuity.


I have no idea how the non-functioning alarm may affect all this but I bet it intercepts signals from the triggers at each door/boot/bonnet. It too could be failed to ground, turning on the LED. The (suspected) failed P10 microswitch will also be telling the alarm that a door is always open and not allowing it to set (the alarm might be fully functional and the previous owner assumed it was not working). Is it possible to unplug the alarm entirely?

These are my thoughts - other people with more knowledge, please chime in.
That is really really helpful thank you. Completely makes sense. Agree the two issues may not be related. Will investigate the door lock again and see where we go. I'll dig out the mulitmeter and remind myself how to use it for this.

RE the dash green light and the red door lights. If that is the case and the green is out and the reds are on as a result, I know it's not technically possible to change the green light, but I thought I'd read someone had in fact re-soldered some things and chnage LED's in the dash on here without needing a whole new dash unit. I'm not minding changing the dash unit etc, but would rather fix what i have, preserve the original mileage displayed etc.

Further thoughts and experience appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I think you have two issues that appear related but are not.

The dash lights:
Did these ever work since you acquired the car?
Each one of the doors, the boot and bonnet are separately connected LED. They receive positive voltage in the cluster and are grounded at the device they monitor. Any one of these triggers the 'little green car' to light. (It is hard to believe that all of these triggers have failed to ground). I don't know how the cluster is wired internally but it may be possible that the 'little green car' illumination has failed to ground and turning on the four LED.

The door lock bouncing:
The lock module compares the lock state across both doors and if it does not match, reverses the lock. View attachment 955000

Given that your passenger door lights and windows work, I think your issue is the microswitch inside P10, right hand door lock. You can check it to an extent by removing connector P10B and checking for continuity across pins 1 and 2 in the lock while functioning the lock with a key - it should change state from continuity to no-continuity.


I have no idea how the non-functioning alarm may affect all this but I bet it intercepts signals from the triggers at each door/boot/bonnet. It too could be failed to ground, turning on the LED. The (suspected) failed P10 microswitch will also be telling the alarm that a door is always open and not allowing it to set (the alarm might be fully functional and the previous owner assumed it was not working). Is it possible to unplug the alarm entirely?

These are my thoughts - other people with more knowledge, please chime in.
I should add, car bought 2 weeks ago with eyes open re the faults (and price to reflect). Previous owner has had the car for a year or so, hasnt used it much and faults were already there when he bought it.
 
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