Evaporator Control Valve?
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There is a cannister of charcoal particles somewhere in the car (not familiar with a 166!). It's job is absorb fuel vapour that evaporates from the fuel tank breather. They are usually cylindrical and made of plastic - maybe 150-200mm tall and 75-100mm in diameter. Manufacturers often put them in the front wings with the screen washer bottles. A rubber tube connects it to the tank breather. There will be another rubber tube that goes from it to the engine (inlet manifold or plenum usually) and an electrically operated solenoid valve to close that pipe off. Usually, for several seconds after starting, the solenoid valve opens to let the engine suck clean air through the charcoal cannister to purge all the stored fumes out of it ready for the next shut-down. The fumes that were in the cannister are burned by the engine.
It sounds like something is either wrong with that valve or one of the hoses betwen it and the engine has split. That's my best guess, but I don't know where they are located on a 166.
It sounds like something is either wrong with that valve or one of the hoses betwen it and the engine has split. That's my best guess, but I don't know where they are located on a 166.
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1,417 Posts
what is the error? no signal, probably..
Indeed, follow the blue pipe, on a 1.6-2.0 this leads to a metal silver pipe behind the engine, which leads to the actual, small canister purge valve (renamed evaporation control valve in new FES version.. even more obscure) that is under the throttle control unit under the motor ECU. There is a 2-pin plug that controls the valve.
This is very hard to access and you might squeeze your hand to unplug it but its a big job to change it, to me at least! BTW I got a "no signal" error that cannot be cleared if the engine is running.
I checked the power to the valve, 12V and ~7V, trigger the valve via FES; the power changed to 12V and ~0V; Seems OK AFAIK if I remember correctly, another normal car had the same voltages . I also tried changing the valve, plugging another valve with my connector. I still got the same error! I then tried to ground the metal parts of the valve, like where the screws are, to the (-) of the battery and it fixed it. Even removing the cable, the error didn't come back (until later while driving I guess....)
So strange issue. Need expert advice ; I'll keep working on the electric aspect...
Indeed, follow the blue pipe, on a 1.6-2.0 this leads to a metal silver pipe behind the engine, which leads to the actual, small canister purge valve (renamed evaporation control valve in new FES version.. even more obscure) that is under the throttle control unit under the motor ECU. There is a 2-pin plug that controls the valve.
This is very hard to access and you might squeeze your hand to unplug it but its a big job to change it, to me at least! BTW I got a "no signal" error that cannot be cleared if the engine is running.
I checked the power to the valve, 12V and ~7V, trigger the valve via FES; the power changed to 12V and ~0V; Seems OK AFAIK if I remember correctly, another normal car had the same voltages . I also tried changing the valve, plugging another valve with my connector. I still got the same error! I then tried to ground the metal parts of the valve, like where the screws are, to the (-) of the battery and it fixed it. Even removing the cable, the error didn't come back (until later while driving I guess....)
So strange issue. Need expert advice ; I'll keep working on the electric aspect...
Joined
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1,417 Posts
On a car without errors:
Pin 1 (wire to lead current from the first relay also used by other components)
= 12 V constantly during ON/MAR
Pin 2 (wire from ECU)
= 12 V when valve off
= 6-7 V when valve triggered by ecu (on MAR or by FES)
Unplugging the connector to the valve generates the "Cannister purge valve: no signal". Replugging it and clearing the error fixes the problem.
If you read this, you probably think: Duh! But the thing is, over the past 3 weeks I tried to make it work; my electrical behavior is exactly the same. I replaced the valve. Tested the replacement valve on another car and it worked, etc... No, my car shows "evaporation control valve: no signal". Please help before I go insane...
Pin 1 (wire to lead current from the first relay also used by other components)
= 12 V constantly during ON/MAR
Pin 2 (wire from ECU)
= 12 V when valve off
= 6-7 V when valve triggered by ecu (on MAR or by FES)
Unplugging the connector to the valve generates the "Cannister purge valve: no signal". Replugging it and clearing the error fixes the problem.
If you read this, you probably think: Duh! But the thing is, over the past 3 weeks I tried to make it work; my electrical behavior is exactly the same. I replaced the valve. Tested the replacement valve on another car and it worked, etc... No, my car shows "evaporation control valve: no signal". Please help before I go insane...
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