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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

my 1.9jtd 16v won't start anymore after i did a visual inspection on the timing belt earlier today. As such I removed and unplugged the ecu connectors next to the engine to make the job of removing the plastic timing covers easier, which it did.

I also did not unplug any other connection beside the 2 ecu connectors itself.
But now the engine won't start which I find strange to say the least :eek:

Is there some trick to this, I'm doing something wrong?

Help me out brothers :inlove:

p.s. it is a Bosch unit, all the pins seems ok, not bent or something like that
 

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Did you disconnect the battery? If not it's possible you spiked the ecu and killed it.
 

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As Joss said but make sure the contacts are clean.
Give them a spray with electrical contact cleaner leave to dry .
Then with the battery disconnected touc the battery leads together for 10 secs or so not on the bsttery just the + and - leads.
Reconnect the ECU connector make sure its pushed in and tight.
Then reconnect the battery. Try and see what happens. You maybe lucky .:thumbs:
 

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Just out of interest as it maybe part of the problem. Why did you unplug it? :confused:
 

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He said to get more room to get the cambelt cover off.
 

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doh......:cheese:
 

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Just wondered if you had accidentally unplug something :(
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Just wondered if you had accidentally unplug something :(
That was the 1st thing that came to my mind also, but for the life of me i can't think of anything that i unplugged besides the ecu.

Perhaps of interest here;
* During starting the rev counter does about 300rpm's (is this ecu output ?)
* check engine light does dim after some seconds on contact
* ecu is remapped and egr blocked
* fuel pump is priming
* "0 km to maintenance" in dashdisplay or somethign similar
 

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Bad battery ?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Is there a quick'n dirty ecu test that i could do?

From what i read basically the only required input for injector activation is the crank sensor input? I have an oscilloscope so it would be cool if i could do a check but i can't find the color diagram for the appropraite sensor wires.

I did find a connector diagram but it is pain to work out the appropraite colors since that would mean I would have to take apart the connector itself which is no picknick in the park.

Meanwhile I did buy a bottle of wine
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I replaced the crank sensor today.

Still won't start but i do get a diesel smell though.

Is there anything else that would prevent it from starting ?

Thanks brothers
 

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Discussion Starter #14
**NEWSFLASH

I changed the crank sensor.
Now it runs for a second or so before it stalls, which it did not even do before. I'm left confused...

I disconnected the fuel line to make sure it's delevering, which it does. So at least the pump is engaged.
I also disconnected the MAF, also no help.
 

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If its got fuel (ie diesel smell) then it seems the ECU is at least trying to trigger the injectors? The thought occurs that the cam sensor is by the camshaft pulley. Could you have knocked that when removing cover?

Keith
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If its got fuel (ie diesel smell) then it seems the ECU is at least trying to trigger the injectors? The thought occurs that the cam sensor is by the camshaft pulley. Could you have knocked that when removing cover?

Keith
Hoi Keith,

no, i'm sure i didn't damage it. I also diconnected the connector and then it won't start at all, so not even half the second it does when i re-connect the connector. So I guess it's working.

What I have noticed is that the check engine light comes on just after it start en just before it then again cuts out. So I'm suspecting there is indeed some sensor or signal out of wack.
But it's hard to tell without a scanner.

Also it ran a couple of seconds (one time) but it ran really rough, not like it did before in any matter.

***HALF TIME
Alfa : Me (1:0)
 

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And did you make sure that the sealing ring came out with the old crank sensor? If it stayed in and you had one on your new sensor as well, you'll get a very weak or non-existent signal......
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
And did you make sure that the sealing ring came out with the old crank sensor? If it stayed in and you had one on your new sensor as well, you'll get a very weak or non-existent signal......
yes, me is sure :)

it was a pain in the <- to get the new one to seat properly, but i'm pretty sure it went it all the way in while tightening the bolt.

But thanks for the suggestion
 
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