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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys.

Recently i've decided to do an engine swap on my '99 Alfa 156. I love the car and i've invested a lot of effort in making it factory new but i've always felt the lack of power in the engine area. Original engine is 1.6 TS which i've tried to tune up a bit by installing 2.0 camshafts and 1.8 ECU but gain was not much. All in all, it was a healthy engine with low oil consumption so it wasn't giving me any reason to take it out even though i wanted to.



But recently it did. Some sensor or something got messed up and it looked like engine was running way too rich. There were constant backfires, petrol fumed smoke on the exhaust etc. Tried couple of different lambdas, mafs, injectors, coils etc.. nothing helped. At one point during the engine start, it backfired and blew up the intake manifold so i guess i've decided it's time to go.




Instead of the old TS, new 3.0 v6 24v Busso has been placed. Busso was taken out of '00 166 with automatic transmission so it's safe to say that it is in great condition. Belts, tensioners and water pump has been done before mounting, everything else untouched. Decision has been made to use CF2 ECU and wiring due to better exhaust system and fewer lamdbas. I've also used standard 2.5 v6 flywheel with 6 speed manual transmission.






Porting went smoothly, except for few minor issues that were resolved on the way. As for the wiring, i've used CF2 SW wiring with it's ECU. Pretty much everything was "bolt on" except for few issues i have which hopefully you can help me with. Surprisingly, engine started on the first crank and worked great. Pretty good for the first time porting an engine.

Now the issues...

There is an incompatibility with one jack next to front right door. It's connecting to the power windows control box and when joined, goes to the left side somewhere around the fuse box and the other end going below the carpet. On the new wiring, jack is light gray with purple locks and small pins, on the old wiring it was black jack with yellow locks and big rounded pins. Without it connected, power windows do not work. I've checked the wire colors, and managed to connect ignition driven power supply which is the same color and power windows started working. As for the rest of the ~15 wires i dont know yet how to connect them since the wires are not the same color. Also, i haven't noticed anything else not working, except maybe they cause the next issue.

The weird issue: ECU won't read the key code on ignition UNTIL i plug in an OBD cable and connect an USB end to the lap top. Diagnostics program does not need to be on for it to read the code. All i have to do is have lap top on and USB plugged in. Never seen that before.

Third issue that occurs is throttle potentiometer not working correctly. On ECU it shows accelerator pedal fault and revving is delayed. Couple of times it worked properly, mostly it doesnt. I've tried with 3 different potentiometers to eliminate the possibility of it being faulty.

For the last two issues described, i suspect i've missed to connect some earth cable so i'm gonna check that first. First issue... Well, if i can't find anything 'not working' with having rest of the wires disconnected i guess i'll leave it as is. Suggestions are very appreciated at this point.

If you're interested in swapping, i'll post all the steps and modification needed. Cheers !
 

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Hiya

Wow you have taken on a massive pain in the back side job going 4 pot to v6 with all the wiring , But hats off to you as i looked into it and was to much hassle so just swapped 3.0 into a 2.5 .

I will have a good think to try and help but im not near my project car so im having to think from memory.

But to start the key code light. i think there must be a problem with the decoder power source as it sounds like the decoder is getting a power feed from your laptops usb port. you could try jumping power to the decoder box positive and see if it sorts it without having to have the obd plugged in, at least its a start.


question i have is , are you using the complete wiring loom from the v6 or how much of it are you using

speak soon

merry xmas
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hello. Thanks for input.

I'm using v6 wiring loom starting from the fusebox to the battery power supply. It basically covers everything under the dashboard (immo, ignition cables, radio, ac etc.) and everything under the hood. I didn't have to change rest of the wiring since it's pretty much plug and play between them.

By the way, 3.0 and 2.5 are pretty much the same. I've had to modify oil cooler, one engine mount and some other minor stuff to make 3.0 work in 156. But it pays off.
 

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hi again

have you solved any of your problems yet, and also what did you do to the oil cooler.
I just used the 2.5 set up and added a remote oil filter and a oil cooler rad.
and yes you are right the 2.5 and 3.0 and 3.2 are all identical so its a straight plug and play swap for v6's. so for me besides my engine mods and the mice eating the loom ive been fairly trouble free.

although i dont know of any others on here who have done a ts to v6 im sure your get some help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Haven't tried solving the issues yet. Getting the air out of the clutch cylinder was PITA so it took a while. Tomorrow i'm mounting the heater box, dashboard holder and the wiring loom back to their places so i'll try to see what's up with the wiring. I'm using restyling heater box and dashboard so there will be some cutting and soldering work anyway.

As for the oil cooler, i've used 2.5 setup. It was pretty much bolt on except for one bolt screwed in the block which 2.5 setup did not have a place for. I've tried unscrewing it but it wouldn't budge so i ended up cutting it off and polished to match the block. Coolant was taken from it's original place on thermostat using 2.5's hose which is held by 2 bolts on the back head cam cover. I've been researching the issue a bit and the oil cooler from GTV 3.0 would match for 156. It has the same setup as 166 but with drive shaft bearing having the correct position. I might look into that later.
 

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