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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
On way home today engine was up to temperature and everything was normal, i planted my foot to accelerate past someone and the car seemed to accelerate then hold back accelerate again hold back very strange. tried it again and it did the same but i noticed the boost gauge went to 1.4 dropped to 0.6 then up to 1.3 down to 0.6.

just after this i was slowing down no foot on throttle and suddenly the car accelerated then slowed down accelerated then slowed down boost gauge going from 0 to 0.5 to 0 to 0.5

any body got any ideas on this

got no smoke out the back so i dont think its a split hose

egr has been blanked and deleted from map
swirl flaps removed and blanked
inlet manifold was cleaned totally 5k miles ago
car still has its dpf but that preformed and completed a regen earlier today

just plugged in mes and got the following fault codes

engine u1601 - C-CAN line error
Gearbox U1601 - BUS error
Electric Steering B1016 No steering lock authorisation from body computer
Body TEG rreader TRW electronic key B1005 teg transponder
Dashboard U1602 - CAN line
Drivers door B1009 door lock button
B1028 puddle light (bulb missing)
 

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Vacuum leak or clutch slipping?
Check all the vacuum hoses to start - Sorry to hear that pal, more bloody work for you!
Very random faults, how many of them (if any) would you agree with? You may need to add some additional earth straps?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Vacuum leak or clutch slipping?
Check all the vacuum hoses to start - Sorry to hear that pal, more bloody work for you!
Very random faults, how many of them (if any) would you agree with? You may need to add some additional earth straps?
alan you forgot its an automatic didnt you :)

puddle light i know the bulb is missing
car was running perfectly and then this happened 3 or 4 times on the way home after a rather delicious pub lunch
 

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alan you forgot its an automatic didnt you :)

puddle light i know the bulb is missing
car was running perfectly and then this happened 3 or 4 times on the way home after a rather delicious pub lunch
Yup I did! (Bloody Autos)
In that case go for the vacuum leak but I would say you have a poor earth as well Mate?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
after a phoine call to Alan and his help we think it might be the boost solenoid, it is activating but i can blow through the tubes as if it is stuck open. the solenoid can be heard activating. ordered a new one anyway

i cleared the codes, cleaned the filter in the boost solenoid put it all back together and took the car for a spin, on my test drive the car seemed to behave perfectly. I learnt an important lesson though when you plant your foot and then pay attention only to the road and boost gauge it comes as a bit of a shock to look at the speedo to have it reading 130 (kmh honestly ;) )

the only codes i have now are the puddle light (bulb missing) and drivers lock (button stuck down) willhave to get in there with a toothbrush

going to check all the earths in the week just in case
 

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Nice one chap - earth leads are a port of call due to the obscure fault codes?
You need to run a couple of additional leads from the battery neg terminal to the engine block and back to the body - makes a difference believe me!
 

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after a phoine call to Alan and his help we think it might be the boost solenoid, it is activating but i can blow through the tubes as if it is stuck open. the solenoid can be heard activating. ordered a new one anyway

i cleared the codes, cleaned the filter in the boost solenoid put it all back together and took the car for a spin, on my test drive the car seemed to behave perfectly. I learnt an important lesson though when you plant your foot and then pay attention only to the road and boost gauge it comes as a bit of a shock to look at the speedo to have it reading 130 (kmh honestly <img src="http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" /> )

the only codes i have now are the puddle light (bulb missing) and drivers lock (button stuck down) willhave to get in there with a toothbrush

going to check all the earths in the week just in case
Had similar with my boost solenoid neither outlet would hold a vacuum unless I took vent filter off and plugged that outlet.
Didn’t have/didn’t notice the odd behaviour you have but power was down due to losing about 8-9 hg vac through the valve.
 

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Hi Simon, try sealing the vacuum hoses onto the 4 entry stalks with small fuel line clips (not jubilee clips). You can get blow by on the hose ends and then everyone automatically assumes it's a dicky solenoid... Cheapest option first as they are only pennies to buy and take 5 minutes to fit.

As Topic has already mentioned. It's imperative on these Qtronics to have an extra earthing point. On the manual's they have one coming from the gearbox.
On the auto's it's non existent! So fit a 12" M6 lug to M10 lug to spare battery negative thread to the engine block. A perfect place is under the right front engine lifting eye. You won't have any further issues mate. You have to remember that these Qtronics also have an extra Aisin gearbox ECU to handle so it can only help, not hinder .
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Simon, try sealing the vacuum hoses onto the 4 entry stalks with small fuel line clips (not jubilee clips). You can get blow by on the hose ends and then everyone automatically assumes it's a dicky solenoid... Cheapest option first as they are only pennies to buy and take 5 minutes to fit.

As Topic has already mentioned. It's imperative on these Qtronics to have an extra earthing point. On the manual's they have one coming from the gearbox.
On the auto's it's non existent! So fit a 12" M6 lug to M10 lug to spare battery negative thread to the engine block. A perfect place is under the right front engine lifting eye. You won't have any further issues mate. You have to remember that these Qtronics also have an extra Aisin gearbox ECU to handle so it can only help, not hinder .
earth cable ordered
tried to get the fault to reappear on the way home from work and no joy, had 6 or 7 attempts and it behaved like normal just took off like a scalded cat. going to have to be careful dont want the 'sorry officer i was just testing my boost solenoid was working' conversation. surprising how quick you get to non legal speeds when you floor it
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i will put an earth strap on, I have a feeling the error codes might have been historic. When I bought the car it only had a tiny battery on it which I replaced after a couple of weeks and I dont recall clearing the error codes.

the connection of all 4 pipes was very good, all were tight to remove

still havent managed to get the fault to reoccur
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
fault still not reappeared but new boost control solenoid arrived today so 5 minutes later its fitted

new one i can blow thru one tube but not the other
old one i can blow thru both so definately knackered
 

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Found that scary thread - Just so happens that was a stupid Auto as well!
https://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alf...spider/433137-my-turbo-has-just-exploded.html
What scarier is that he couldn’t stall it because it was an auto! Oh dear!!
All these engines should be able to be stalled by just turning the key off even in a runaway situation.

The throttle plate that is on the entrance to the intake manifold closes when the key is turned off and forms an almost perfect seal stopping any air getting through into the engine. In worst case scenario it will just take a few extra seconds to shut down or could continue chucking at a much lower RPM than if it didn't have the plate :)
 

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My 2.0 has that feature...not sure that the 1.9 or 2.4 do though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Grrrrr issue reappeared, so i popped into my local alfa indie for a chat, his immediate response was egr valve and once that was discounted as blanked and mapped out he suggested turbo waste gate. approx cost £350 if they can do it inhouse or £600 if it needs sending out.
 

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Grrrrr issue reappeared, so i popped into my local alfa indie for a chat, his immediate response was egr valve and once that was discounted as blanked and mapped out he suggested turbo waste gate. approx cost £350 if they can do it inhouse or £600 if it needs sending out.
What do they suspect is wrong the actuator failing or sticking Vanes?
Can’t imagine either would cost that much to sort out?
 

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he just said the turbo wastegate
Sorry to hear that pal, did you ever carry out the Mr.Muscle clean??
I would have thought you would have the problem more often with a wastegate issue - Bloody annoying!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
i know the garret turbo on the 210 bhp version cant be rebuilt as garrett dont supply the parts but can the borgwarner turbo as fitted to my 200 bhp version?

if so does anyone have any suggestions as to where best to get this done
 

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Wastegate?

It was meant VNT probably not functioning properly due too one of various reasons.
Mechanically you can check rather easy by looking if the lever can travel the full way as well as smoothly. If disconnected by hand and connected you could use a simple vaccuum pump. Inside the turbo is a more comprehensive, but still doable story. That will require removal of the exhaust (downpipe) on a 2.0 it is quite easy (close connected DPF). Once removed you can use a snake USB camera to inspect the condition of the exhaust side and watch the VNT vanes move freely or not.

When you do this yourself, you can save yourself what might be an expensive mis-diagnose. Just to rule out things.
 
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