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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, I have just bought a 2001 156 2.0 litre selespeed for a few hundred quid thinking a new cambelt and c/h head would see it back on the road :cry: :cry:

It has stripped the teeth off the cambelt rather than snapping if that points you experts to an underlying cause.

After perusing this wonderful site I have been educated and now realise that it won't be making me any money but the GF loves the look of it and I would love to find out if these cars are worth the aggro as years of driving various POS's have me yearning for a vehicle that drives around corners properly!

So I have found a second hand CF3 engine for £350 that's allegedly done 78,000 [mine has 90,000 by one owner from new]

Now for your bit:

Are all CF3's the same regardless of gearbox type ? [ie will a manual gearbox engine fit a selespeed ?]

As I guess I would need to put a new belt on the secondhand engine anyway, would any of you seriously consider just doing the belt and not the tensioners, water pump and other belts ect ?

Finally if I plump for rebuilding the existing engine will it save me a lot of grief if I just pull the lump out and stick on the bench ? and if so would you split it ?

I should point out that I'm a keen and reasonably competent grease monkey and lifting out a little lump like the twin spark is well within my powers.

Unlike my powers to read up about Alfas before buying a broken one!

Ps, My Gf also wants me to point out that as I'm a trifle portly leaning over an engine bay is not good for my posture.:lol:
 

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Are all CF3's the same regardless of gearbox type ? [ie will a manual gearbox engine fit a selespeed ?]
Yes. They are 32310 in 156/147.

As I guess I would need to put a new belt on the secondhand engine anyway, would any of you seriously consider just doing the belt and not the tensioners, water pump and other belts ect ?
All three belts and all tensioners.


FYI, re the stripped teeth on the old belt, that is just due to the age of the belt. Probably more common than actually snapping.
 

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Just use all the necessary bits from your old engine that may be different to the new one.

As DavidC said change all belts and waterpump before fitting (way easier) and dont forget to buy a clutch (unless you didnt know selespeeds have a normal manual clutch)

Not sure if the selespeed unit will need calibrating for new clutch as i don't know enough about them.
Someone else will know
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for your input, Does the variator show signs of wear that can be spotted in anyway or is it another " replace it now just in case" job ?
 

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Hi if putting s/hand engine you need to do both belts/pulleys etc, variator, water pump and i would do new clutch.
Or new big ends, both belts/pulleys, variator, water pump and gasket set.
I've got fiatecuscan and in west sussex
Good luck
 

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... and clutch slave cylinder unless it looks new.

If you do take it out and put it on a bench, have a good look at the piston rings. Mine had signs of tiny cracks and a very light scratch on one cylinder bore. new rings and the bores honed means oil consumption is negligible.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, thanks for your input so far, very helpful. I have made a decision and will be getting a s/h engine. I think I'm going to wait until I'm drunk to calculate the cost of the parts required to put it back on the road with a reasonable amount of confidence in it. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update, I have been lucky enough to get an engine from my mates scrapyard that has the cambelt change sticker on it. It says 18 months and about 22,00 miles are left in the belt. So I am going to replace the engine and use the best clutch out of the two. Much as I would love to do a complete job, we are moving house in 3 weeks and She needs to be back on the road before then.

I have been thinking of removing the balance belt and possibly leaving the ac pump off [because the pipe from the pump has been broken off] is it possible to just leave the pump off and use the shorter belt from a non ac car ?

What are your thoughts about removing the balance belt ?

Finally I'd just like to say thanks to everyone who has helped me already through these forums, cheers!
 

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Re the aux belt, yes you can leave off the compressor and use the shorter non-ac aux belt.
I'm not 100% sure if the tensioner arrangement needs altering for the shorter belt, it may just be that one of the idlers isn't used with the shorter belt, but check that first.
You need to make sure you get the right belt because there were different belts with different numbers of grooves and pulleys to match.

Re the balance belt, personally I'd keep it. The 2.0TS is a very smooth engine for a 4-cyl and you will loose that if you take the the balance belt off.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Blimey, those Italians don't want their engines to fall out do they. I have never seen so many brackets and mountings on an engine. Bloody thing is still stuck in the car as a nut on the rear gearbox mount is rounded off. In fact the whole engine is a bit of a ******* to work on in the car ain't it. soooo many wires and clips in odd places.
So many hard to reach nuts and bolts. It better be a bloody good drive after all this! :lol:
Thanks for the advice David.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No, it's an 18mm [for God's sake!] nut on a stud from the g/box. The bracket is removed from the sub frame but sticks out rearwards and the selespeed gear on the g/box prevents the whole lot rising out at the angle that we can achieve. If we had some strops instead of just the crane hook it would have come out at an extreme angle. It's not a problem, a new 18 mm walldrive spanner today will have it off in no time.

I shall probably change the cambelt anyway, is it really impossible without cam locks? I have never had to use cam locks before even on twin cam engines.
 

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I shall probably change the cambelt anyway, is it really impossible without cam locks? I have never had to use cam locks before even on twin cam engines.
On the 16v TS/JTS it is impossible to do properly without the camlocks.
There are no timing marks.
The cam pulleys need to be slackened to allow the belt to tension.

and never assume that the timing is correct before you start work
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks mate, will start from scratch.
Lump and box are out now and on the bench. Stripping down/building up over the next week. back in next weekend! [omg! i hope i remember where all those bloody wires go :) ]
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update, well things went well during the rebuild except the clutch thrust bearing is us and a new one from alfa is nearly 100 quid ffs! So it's not going back in yet but hopefully this week after work one night, the sound of a resurrected T spark will be heard on the sunny Sussex coast! All those bloody wires were a piece of the proverbial in the end, that at least they got right when they designed this lump. Shame they couldn't get the mountings for the ancillaries right, 5 bolts to hold the ac pump bracket on and 2 of them impossible to get to !!
Still smiling though :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hahahahahaha! Now I know why you all love em! She has been working for a while now but today was the first proper drive due to moving house and stuff. Went down to Goodwood to watch the Jag owners have a blast, which was awesome [and free] in it's self, but the drive there was sublime. I have never had so much fun with two extra wheels before, awesome! thanks to all who helped make it possible. BRILLIANT!
 

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Aye! A good '56 is a pretty good wheels... especially when you put your own blood (literally!), sweat and knuckles skin into it.. :)

Good job Pile. :thumbs:


Ralf S.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Update! Hi again, thought I would add that after nearly a year of driving the car I'm still grinning :) But I wanted to say for the benefit of other newbies who might read this that if I ever take the engine out again It's coming out through the bottom. It means splitting the exhaust but the aggro we had getting it out through the top and getting it back in again still gives me nightmares :)

Problems since rebuild include; exhaust manifold gasket blowing slightly when cold [cheapskate used old gasket!]
Knocking from front arb bushes, occasional engine warning light coming on and running a bit rough. Rear windows don't open, just click! Apart from those paltry problems it's been a wonderful first year of Alfa ownership! :inlove:
 
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