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Discussion Starter #1
Hi

What are people thoughts on using a flush when carrying out the oil change on the 2.0 TS?

I'm suffering a 'stuck Tappet Noise' sometimes on a cold start up wondered if this may help?

(Used these in the past to good effect on A series Mini Engine but not on an engin with hydraulic tappets such as TS.)

Any thoughts or advice appreciated.

Thanks

Jimny
 

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Don't.

Your "cold tappet noise" is probably the variator anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks

Variator was replaced last summer, less than 2k ago.
Had variator noise, diesel noise, at every start up before this

Fairly sure it's a tappet. Happenfs after a lot of short journeys.

Jimny
 

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Flushes can cause a lot more harm than the little bit of good they'll do.
It is up to you if you use one, but I wouldn't.
 

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I always flush out the old oil in mine and leave it to drain well before re-filling and fitting a new filter.
 
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It's like an old smoking pipe. They never taste or perform as well until they have built up an inner black lining. (ie well burnt in). I'd not flush mine out.
 

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If an engine has never had a flushing agent, I would be wary of starting at 90K miles or whatever. There is a reasonable chance that lumps of clag that will inevitably be in there will spin off and block something up.

On the flip side, our V6 has been flushed (Forte) at every single service since new. At the recent cambelt service (70K miles), the mechanics commented that it was spotless inside - for a car that did 30K miles in London, that is not a bad comment. We had a rattly tappet, a flushing agent and oil change cured it.

The 3.2 V6 that I have in pieces at the moment is 33K miles, and has great lumps of oil related grot in it.
 

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The only form of '' engine flush '' I'd ever do is to drain then fill with cheap oil/correct grade --- run out for 100 miles then drain and re-fill with the good stuff . My 2.4 will get that treatment on it's next drain , basically because diesels have dirty looking oil even after a drain and re-fill , so it just helps to clean it out this way.
 

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Compared to 30 years ago all engines these days are clean inside even when they get neglected. Back then it was not unusual to have as much as 5mm of crud stuck to the inside of a sump or a couple of mm on con rods.
The colour of the oil is pretty meaningless, it goes black very quickly but is still doing it's job perfectly well. If having it look clean is your thing just keep changing it.
 

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Engine flush is totally unnecessary and you can never change all the oil during an oil change anyway. A sump with 95% new oil and 5% old oil will work no differently to 100% new oil. If the oil is still black it does not matter. If it bothers you that much run it for only half the usual interval and change it again. Changing it after 100 miles may make it look clean but it is only really wasting money and oil.
 

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Flushes can cause a lot more harm than the little bit of good they'll do.
It is up to you if you use one, but I wouldn't.
+1 on this. I had an Escort RS turbo years ago that ran pretty well. Against advice from my father who was in the motor industry I went ahead and flushed the engine while changing the oil. Afterwards the engine rattled and never really ran as well again. If you have been doing it from the start fair enough but I wouldn't risk it.

I fired some Wynns hydraulic tappet treatment in my oil about a year and a half ago when it was getting a bit rattley and it has ran great ever since. If the TS are hydraulic it's got to be worth a try
 

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Get the oil nice and hot, then drain it and refill with a good quality 5w-40 fully synthetic. Along with a genuine oil filter.

That is probably the best thing to do with it IMO.

I did have a ticking noise on my last 145QV and it turned out to be a loose spark plug due to a damaged thread. Also make sure the cam lobes are not worn.
 

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I've tried a flush now and again and I don't notice any increase the amount of goo that comes out... so I doubt it'll make much difference if your engine is essentially clean inside already.

Newer engines are much cleaner and give the oil less of a hard time than in the old days when flushing agent was invented. Also, new oils are better at absorbing the crud rather than dropping it in the engine's arteries. My old '55 ran 200k with 12k change intervals (semi synthetic oil) and that had some minor layer (1mm?) of crud in the oilways, so way okay.

If your car has had regular oil changes with good quality oil, then it probably won't need a flushing agent... but then it also won't do any harm, since you won't have any crud holding the engine/leaks together.. :D

Ralf S.
 
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