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Discussion Starter #1
Must be from a 916, no other model suggestions please.

They're for a friend's black Spider with a tan interior.

I'm pretty sure these were only fitted to GTVs, no Spider option on Eper.

Clive
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Is there a set you could recolour
No, not something my trimmer recommends, or guarantees, & I'm not 'donating' my very rare white set which would be the only colour worth trying to change to tan.

So we need either tan or black.

Clive
 

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Discussion Starter #6
.....or GTV with e/seats?

I'd consider buying a complete car with electric seats, runner or breaker, if the price is right?

Clive
 

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I am also looking for a set of electric seat for my Spider.
I have a set of black Edizione Sportivo seats with red seams and Alfa logo on hand but I feel the price tag for the seats is quite high.
Therefore I would like to hear what you are prepared to pay for such a set of electric seats

The seats are from a GTV so do anyone know if the seats are prepared for the seat belt bracket?
 

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I have a set of black Edizione Sportivo seats with red seams and Alfa logo on hand but I feel the price tag for the seats is quite high.
Sportiva seats - love them! I was considering buying a GTV in Germany to get a pair of these Sportiva seats, eventually found a UK GTV with red electric...super rare, beautiful seats. Had to buy the whole car to get the seats...ha. The advantage to buying the whole car is that you get the wiring loom as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sportiva seats - love them! I was considering buying a GTV in Germany to get a pair of these Sportiva seats, eventually found a UK GTV with red electric...super rare, beautiful seats. Had to buy the whole car to get the seats...ha. The advantage to buying the whole car is that you get the wiring loom as well.
The wiring is simple as all the switches etc are integral, just take a feed from the cigarette lighter.

Clive
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The seats is sold with the relays and wiring loom.
But the seller is requesting £800 for the seats :depressed:
Cheaper than Alfa!......& Sportiva seats are very rare.

It depends how badly you want them.

Clive
 

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... just take a feed from the cigarette lighter.

Clive
Personally, I wouldn't.

1. On a P1, the seats are then permanently live. If the heater element(s) get left on, you've a dead battery a few hours later.

2. Between the heaters and motors, the seats are protected by two fuses ( 20A & 30A respectively ). The cigarette lighter circuit fuse is shared with other systems and is only rated at 20A.

3. Blowing that fuse on a P1 will cause the brake lights to fail.

A much better method -

P1 GTV. If the car doesn't have a sunroof, stick a 30A relay in the relevant socket on the aux relay bracket and pick up a 30A ignition controlled supply at the socket under the radio. If the car does have a sunroof, the same supply can be used - just don't operate the seats at the same time as the sunroof! Dead easy and a good solution on a P1 ( although still not ideal as it still won't allow the seats to be adjusted with the ignition off and when the courtesy lights are still on ). A similar solution could be utilised for a Spider with a manual hood ( but I've not looked at that fully ).

P1 Spider & P2/3 ( Spider/GTV ).
I'd stick a new fuse and relay under the rear parcel shelf. Energise this relay using the same energising supply as the ignition cut off relay ( also under the parcel shelf ). This means the relay will only be on when the ignition key is at 'MAR'. Run the supply wire from this relay down the centre of the back seats, past the airbag ECU and then split it to the two seats. Same limitation as the P1 GTV above ( cannot operate the seat motors with the ignition off ).

Personally, I'd replicate the factory wiring system in it's entirety.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Personally, I wouldn't.

1. On a P1, the seats are then permanently live. If the heater element(s) get left on, you've a dead battery a few hours later.

2. Between the heaters and motors, the seats are protected by two fuses ( 20A & 30A respectively ). The cigarette lighter circuit fuse is shared with other systems and is only rated at 20A.

3. Blowing that fuse on a P1 will cause the brake lights to fail.

A much better method -

P1 GTV. If the car doesn't have a sunroof, stick a 30A relay in the relevant socket on the aux relay bracket and pick up a 30A ignition controlled supply at the socket under the radio. If the car does have a sunroof, the same supply can be used - just don't operate the seats at the same time as the sunroof! Dead easy and a good solution on a P1 ( although still not ideal as it still won't allow the seats to be adjusted with the ignition off and when the courtesy lights are still on ). A similar solution could be utilised for a Spider with a manual hood ( but I've not looked at that fully ).

P1 Spider & P2/3 ( Spider/GTV ).
I'd stick a new fuse and relay under the rear parcel shelf. Energise this relay using the same energising supply as the ignition cut off relay ( also under the parcel shelf ). This means the relay will only be on when the ignition key is at 'MAR'. Run the supply wire from this relay down the centre of the back seats, past the airbag ECU and then split it to the two seats. Same limitation as the P1 GTV above ( cannot operate the seat motors with the ignition off ).

Personally, I'd replicate the factory wiring system in it's entirety.
Personally I'd run a new fused feed from the cigarette lighter, doubt I'd be fitting 'them' to a Ph1 at anytime. Not like it's going to be a frequent conversion anyway.

The heated part hardly ever works.

Clive
 

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Personally I'd run a new fused feed from the cigarette lighter, doubt I'd be fitting 'them' to a Ph1 at anytime. Not like it's going to be a frequent conversion anyway.

The heated part hardly ever works.

Clive
So you'd run a 15A fuse downstream of the 20A fuse with the 15A fuse protecting the 20A circuit even though the factory setup utilised a 30A+20A? Remember, the ignition is ON to make the adjustment and on a P2/P3 the 20A cigarette lighter fuse is shared with the climate control ECU and motors ( which cannot be switched off ). Still not a good solution Clive.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So you'd run a 15A fuse downstream of the 20A fuse with the 15A fuse protecting the 20A circuit even though the factory setup utilised a 30A+20A? Remember, the ignition is ON to make the adjustment and on a P2/P3 the 20A cigarette lighter fuse is shared with the climate control ECU and motors ( which cannot be switched off ). Still not a good solution Clive.
No I'd fit 20A fuse.

Clive
 

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No I'd fit 20A fuse.

Clive
That just means both are likely to blow at the same time. The second ( new ) fuse would serve no purpose. You can only be sure of protecting the upstream fuse by specifying a lower rated fuse downstream.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That just means both are likely to blow at the same time. The second ( new ) fuse would serve no purpose. You can only be sure of protecting the upstream fuse by specifying a lower rated fuse downstream.
I didn't really want to get involved, think about, the wiring of these seats....again. This thread was just to try & source a pair for a friend.

In a previous thread I/we looked into the wiring in more detail but it was some years ago, in post #25 I actually 'recommended' fitting two 7.5A fuses:

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa...-leather-electric-seats-into-their-black.html

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa...ctric-seats-into-their-black.html#post3792448

http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa...ric-seats-into-their-black-2.html#post3796659

....mind you I also stated that they give more head room, they don't but you do sit deeper in them.

Clive
 
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