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Thats a good price, a bit less than what I paid. Ive just fitted mine all round and its a very straight forward job.
 

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My car is a Lusso spec, the figures quoted by eibach for the drop are for the normal spec cars. I have the pro springs and the drop is approx 30mm all round. I would imagine the pros on a TI would offer very minimal drop. The car feels very similar to before, slightly controversial but they do drive better on the smaller wheels. Id say that roll and squatting has been reduced slightly, it sits a lot better. Both of my rear original springs had snapped and were not sitting correctly as a result hence was my main driver for replacing them.

I was very suprised how easy they were to fit, the front fork seperates from the strut quite easily, I didnt have to undo any ball joints, once the fork is released, drop link loosened from fork, and fork lowered and rested on the driveshaft, the shock with spring just lifts out wiggling it past the brake line.

The rear is also straightforward, you just need to get the scissor jack out the boot and put it between the suframe mount and rear of the arm to push it down a tad, the flexi brake lines and mounts allow for the arms to lower another inch or 2 so you can get the full strut out, the spring only needs compressing a little using this method.

Ive fitted eibachs to all my previous cars, including a Clio 172 which I had for 9 years and never had any problems with them. One thing I will say is download the part catalog from eibach and make sure you are sent the right part numbers, even the springs for engine size and whether its a sportwagon are different.
 

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So did you get the fronts out without compressing the spring. And then how much did you have to compress to separate the shock and spring?
 

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Yes the front struts come out without any compressing very easily, I didnt even have to remove the upper wishbone. The spring was under slight load so I only compressed a little to be on the safe side when I removed the struts top hat to swap the spring. The rears were under a bit more load and were compressed a little to remove from the car and remove spring from the strut. I think a lot of people compress the rear spring to dangerous amounts to remove, but its not necessary as the (curiously designed) rear arms do travel down a lot more with a little help from a spare jack. My rear strut bolt was also the wrong way round as per some of the earlier cars, but it cleared the arm with a short tap from something to drive it through.
 

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The rears are held because the trailing arm bush seems to be clamped tight in the neutral angle. So when you used the jack you were just forcing the rubber in the trailing arm bush. It's a good tip for others.

I have a spare set of front struts that have the springs I need. But when I tried to compress them (to remove the springs) I felt it was under enormous load. I might have to try again!
 

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I have the ti, I wouldn't mind it sitting a little lower but I do often carry 2/3 people in the back or have about full of stuff. So I don't really want the practicality to suffer too much.

Would the sport line be too much of a drop? the main reason for wanting to change the springs is to reduce the roll and dive!
 

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The Eibach pro-kit springs dramatically improved my Giulietta. The ride still feels smooth, but is definitely firmer and less roly-poly.

Not sure how low the undertray is on the 159, but on my car it now touches down occasionally.
 

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The Eibach pro-kit springs dramatically improved my Giulietta. The ride still feels smooth, but is definitely firmer and less roly-poly.

Not sure how low the undertray is on the 159, but on my car it now touches down occasionally.
under tray was missing on mine from when I bought it, so that wouldn't be a problem :smash:
 

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When my rears were taken off, and they're long springs, they weren't compressed at all. A metre long pry bar was used by one guy with his right hand while he pulled the strut with his left. It looked very easy, much easier than when I had the Eibach Spring compressed to dangerous levels and a spreader pushing the arm down..
I think it's worth ordering new bolts for the front and back, my front bolts had reacted and effectively welded to the aluminium fork, took me an age to get them out. Rear bolts were in the wrong way around, so I cut them off.
The front damper can get stuck in the aluminium fork too, so a few days before the work, maybe get some wd40 in there or I think it's a mix of nail polish remover with acetone and gear oil that's good for dismantling.
 
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