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Discussion Starter #1
I suppose it was inevitable really, it's been off and on that often the two bolts that double as a pipe bracket supoport are 5hagged....not only that, the thread in the manifold is mullered too.

So, decisions, descisions. Considered larger bolts, which would mean making the holes the bolts pass through in the EGR larger too...nah! New inlet manifold, pfft! Done that once, don't fancy it again. New, longer bolts...no good, still wouldn't tighten.

I still have my old manifold kicking around (sentimentalist), noticed the possibility of drilling deeper and fitting stainless steel studs. Decision made.

So, armed with drill and 90 degree drill chuck adapter drilled into the manifold. Bought a length of M6 stainless steel rod, cut to length studs x4, thread locked and..... they worked a treat.

Ok, to fit/remove the EGR I have to unbolt the power steering reservoir from the bulkhead and push it down out of the way a bit, but that's only 2 bolts and a small price to pay.

Dead chuffed. :)

All the best

Pub
 

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Pub,

I had a similar problem with mine only only one bolt - I ended up visiting a local light engineering company, they found a very slightly larger bolt and used this to cut a new thread in the manifold and that has held nicely for the past two years.

I must admit that your fix is far more elegant than mine.
 

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helicoil is te way to do it if u can get to drill them.........kit as bigger drill a tap and the helicoils, you use same bolts, thats wot it was invented for
 

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well in the past i have used expanding bolts like used for fixing metal to concrete or bricks ect
I used it once to fix on a manifold after breaking a couple of studs and drilling them out :)
 

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helicoil is te way to do it if u can get to drill them.........kit as bigger drill a tap and the helicoils, you use same bolts, thats wot it was invented for
i used to fabricate and weld huge high vacuum aluminium chambers for silicon chip industry and every bolt hole was helicoiled as alloy always picked up ...there was never any issue with helicoil inserts and where a breeze to fit :thumbs:
 

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i used to fabricate and weld huge high vacuum aluminium chambers for silicon chip industry and every bolt hole was helicoiled as alloy always picked up ...there was never any issue with helicoil inserts and where a breeze to fit :thumbs:
i used to machine turbine housings for turbos (before i became an assembler) and we uesed to helicoil bolt holes on certain housings as soon as the part had been machined, far far superior grip
they are wonderfull things really
 
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Hi Guys, i am looking at getting the 1.9jtd GT, why haven't you blanked your egr valve off? i did this in my old vectra which has the same engine.
Does the GT suffer from the dreaded gunged up inlet manifold.
Are GT's also fitted with a DPF?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nope, no DPF. I've toyed with the idea of blanking the EGR, but if I were to do it it would be at the exhaust manifold, don't fancy the idea of the pipe backfilling with soot.

Blanking the EGR will bring up the engine magament light on the dash (the dreaded MCSF failure), it can be disabled/ignored by these same groups that can remap the ECU.

Yes, had to replace my inlet manifold owing to gunged up swirl valves, may have been able to get away with just cleaning it but I decided to replace it.

All the best

Pub
 

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I suppose it was inevitable really, it's been off and on that often the two bolts that double as a pipe bracket supoport are 5hagged....not only that, the thread in the manifold is mullered too.

So, decisions, descisions. Considered larger bolts, which would mean making the holes the bolts pass through in the EGR larger too...nah! New inlet manifold, pfft! Done that once, don't fancy it again. New, longer bolts...no good, still wouldn't tighten.

I still have my old manifold kicking around (sentimentalist), noticed the possibility of drilling deeper and fitting stainless steel studs. Decision made.

So, armed with drill and 90 degree drill chuck adapter drilled into the manifold. Bought a length of M6 stainless steel rod, cut to length studs x4, thread locked and..... they worked a treat.

Ok, to fit/remove the EGR I have to unbolt the power steering reservoir from the bulkhead and push it down out of the way a bit, but that's only 2 bolts and a small price to pay.

Dead chuffed. :)

All the best

Pub
Nice job :thumbs:
 
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Nope, no DPF. I've toyed with the idea of blanking the EGR, but if I were to do it it would be at the exhaust manifold, don't fancy the idea of the pipe backfilling with soot.

Blanking the EGR will bring up the engine magament light on the dash (the dreaded MCSF failure), it can be disabled/ignored by these same groups that can remap the ECU.

Yes, had to replace my inlet manifold owing to gunged up swirl valves, may have been able to get away with just cleaning it but I decided to replace it.

All the best

Pub
Hi Pub,

I had to replace my vectra inlet due to the swirl flaps falling off, how lucky was i:lol:
expensive and a pig off a job.
I blanked my EGR off where you mentioned, i had no problems for 20k miles and halfords removed the ECU light for £125.
I have heard that the temp inside the turbo can increase due to blanking off but again in 20k
miles mine was fine.
Is there anything specific for me to look for, only asking as i had a TS gtv and it nearly bankrupted me:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
There are buyer's guides at AWS, other than the stuff one should look for in any second hand car, pay attention to...

Suspension knocking/creaking, a particular Alfa weakness, mind you if it isn't creaking/knocking now chances are it soon will be.
Make sure it starts easily, moves off, accellerates, drives and stops in straight line
Electrics, make sure everything works, if it's got heated seats make sure they work, the switches have a habit of melting.
Look for proof of a cambelt change. The book states 72K miles, however there are reports of the waterpump letting go. Wisdom advises belts, tensioner and waterpump at 48K miles or 4 years.
The JTD engine is bulletproof, I've heard of no reports of cam, crank, gasket, piston, valve, bearing problems - but you'd know that.
The EGR.... you know all about that.
Cosmetic stuff, alloy kerbing, stone chips, cabin scratches
Annoying stuff, cabin rattles that sort of thing
Try the air-con
Look for a toolkit and condition of the spare.
Have a look at the skirts/sills near the wheels, these can be crushed by careless mechanics/tyre fitters
Look at the bonnet where the driver's winsdcreen wiper would be at its maximum travel, it has a habit of catching and damaging the arm and bonnet.
The exterior door handle hinge is weak, check both doors.
Check paperwork, 2 keys and service history.

That looks like quite a list but it's not too much more than one would look for on any second hand car, and a lot less than many. If the suspension wasn't so weak this would be a very quiet forum.

All the best

Pub
 
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Hi Pub, good advice thanks.
Does the rear suspension have a rear sub-frame like the gtv?
 
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