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Can someone please post the ecu reset walk through :)
 

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From another thread on here:


1) Disconnect the battery for 45 minutes.

2) After 45 minutes, reconnect the battery, start the engine, but DO NOT touch the throttle or attempt to drive the car.

3) Leave the car to idle for 15 minutes (yes, I'm told it will take this long!!!)

4) Turn the engine off and leave to stand for 10 minutes.

5) Start the car and go for a drive, driving as you normally would (i.e. not going slower or faster than usual).
 

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read on here a while back but carnt find it now that you shouldnt have the key in the ignition when disconnecting and reconnecting the battery i think if i remember it causes code probs.
 

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Here's what I've used over past 5 years of Alfa V6 ownership:
Disconnect battery - short red to black leads (not the battery) - discharges and residual charge/cmos - saves waiting 45 mins or more.
Reconnect.
Turn ignition to MAR ie on but not engine start - leave for at least 90 secs while Throttle body sorts itself out. Turn off, leave for another 90 secs or so.
Fire up engine and leave idle without touching throttle until engine reaches at least 90 deg ie until fan comes on.
Turn off. Restart and drive it like it was meant to be driven.
 

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As far as I know fault codes will not clear/erase with an ECU reset, but adaptive values that are set will (ECU goes back to factory default).

:)
 

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Here's what I've used over past 5 years of Alfa V6 ownership:
Disconnect battery - short red to black leads (not the battery) - discharges and residual charge/cmos - saves waiting 45 mins or more.
Reconnect.
Turn ignition to MAR ie on but not engine start - leave for at least 90 secs while Throttle body sorts itself out. Turn off, leave for another 90 secs or so.
Fire up engine and leave idle without touching throttle until engine reaches at least 90 deg ie until fan comes on.
Turn off. Restart and drive it like it was meant to be driven.
:thumbs:
That's the correct method.
 

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The fuel map has a core or basic 3d map, but the CMOS memory can store and modify certain values on that fuel map depending on what it receives from various sensors - ie you use cheap low octane fuel which results in regular knocking - it will adapt to it by adjusting timing etc. So over time the wrong combination of factors can result in a less than ideal fuel "trim". Resetting wipes that trim handicap back to factory setting.
 

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What is an example of an "adaptive values" ?
CrispDust gives you a nice example/brief description, also the change of a broken
sensor can sometimes lead to an unexpected result because of the "faulty trim",
a ECU reset either with diagnostic tool or the method CrispDust describes resets
the ECU to factory "fail safe" setting and hopefully so will your engine run better,
even if you do not do a reset then after a while engine management (if the ECU is
of adaptive type, not all are) will adapt it's settings to the new sensor.
 

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Just got a spider thats had a replacement engine fitted . its generally slow to start and sometimes does not start ill give this a go and see how it goes.
 

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Is the battery in tip top condition. I Had the same problem. Would seem to turn over OK but slow to start. New battery and now starts instantly.
 

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Is the battery in tip top condition. I Had the same problem. Would seem to turn over OK but slow to start. New battery and now starts instantly.
Were you having non starting issue as well? In any event this doesnt seem to have cured it . ill see if i can get a battery too see if it makes any difference
 

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Just got a spider thats had a replacement engine fitted . its generally slow to start and sometimes does not start ill give this a go and see how it goes.
Definitely sounds like a dodgy battery. Get a garage to fit a new one on the proviso that if it doesn't cure it, then you won't be buying it.

Nothing ventured...etc :thumbs:
 
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