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Discussion Starter #21
What can happen if you turn the pressure spring way up is that you get compressor surge (wah wah wah noise) that means that it is overly tight and is an incorrect setting.


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No, this mod is only about performance and zero about show off. It is completely silent as it recirculates the vented air, just like the stock valve.

I'm planning on doing quite a few mods on my QV but I have no intention of turning it into a ricer




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Thanks buddy. I'll try to find this upgrade... Check my signature for mods ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Good to see some Aussie engineering and manufacturing assisting in improving performance in our Alfas.



I was always concerned that the factory DV wasn't up to scratch especially when the QV engine is pushing close to 22psi stock.



Turbosmart also make one but I think the GFB unit is a better package.



Also consider replacing the factory Wastegate actuator if you are running higher boost. The factory spring is barely rated at 22psi as most people who have open filters will attest to when they hear the wastegate flutter at peak boost during acceleration.



with higher boost, a higher rated DV, wastegate and intercooler are always recommended. with the exhaust, intake and bespoke map, there is no reason the QV motor shouldn't be nearing the 300bhp mark.


Yeah, I can only say that I am very happy with both Aussie engineering and customer service. It is obvious these guys care and are enthusiasts themselves.

Thanks for the tip on the wastegate.

Yes, 300 HP is the magic limit I'm going for


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Hi Rundberg,

Thanks for the detail descriptions. Just a quick question. Does it make the blow off sound? Cufff Cufff? I hate that sound unless it is a Suburu STI... :)

BR,

Can
With an open air filter replacing the OEM airbox(that feeds hot air from the engine bay) you will hear the dump back through the intake. It's not a STI chuff as such. If you listen to a McLaren P1, Noble M600 or the Formula Ford that Chris Harris drove a couple of years ago, you will hear the organic dump that the DV creates. The HKS sequential or Forge BOV are all manufactured to sound that way. You will also hear when the turbo experiences compressor stall and surge which is useful in making sure your car is running optimally.
 

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Okay... So I might have been a bit too sure of myself, when I stated that I was going to try this as a DIY project.
I just went out to my car, removed the engine cover and unscrewed the turbo heat shield.
Where the hell is that diverter valve located at?? I simply couldn't find it at all! Are you supposed to change it from underneath the car?

I attached a few pictures of my engine bay with the heatshield off. Perhaps a friendly person could advise me as to where I might locate the diverter valve? :) The pictures that Rundberg posted made great sense, untill I actually made it out to the car... Then they made no sense at all! :ponder:
Luckily I haven't bought the new one yet!
 

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Its on the other side of the wastegate actuator and it is a vert tight fit.
speaking of your actuator, that thing is knackered.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
I took some pictures that might add a visual element to Pokinacha's explanation. The first is from the top of the engine bay. There you can see that I have marked the wastegate actuator in blue.



Secondly I took a picture from the side. I inserted the phone into the engine bay on the far left of the first picture aiming towards the engine. To the right of the diverter valve you can see the wastegate actuator also here marked in blue.



I hope this will help you get an idea of where the valve is located.



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That thing seems impossible to reach? :(
With the regards to my worn wastegate actuator, can it be changed for a new one?
 

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That thing seems impossible to reach? :(
With the regards to my worn wastegate actuator, can it be changed for a new one?
Its pretty tight. Not impossible. you may need to remove the actuator to get to it. then you have the AC compressor to deal with but it's certainly do-able with a lot of swearing.

Regarding your actuator, Should be an easy swap with a universal actuator. You may need to drill the OEM actuator off its mount and then drill new mounting holes for the new actuator which will be two bolts. Make sure you measure the lengh of the actuator to the wastegate arm so it doesn't remain open. I'm pretty sure the Hyundai Veloster Turbo uses the same mount and actuator. Forge Motorsports make an OEM replacement for the Veloster turbo(its either a K03 or K04) that has the ability to change the spring meaning you can keep the wastegate closed under higher boost pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Its pretty tight. Not impossible. you may need to remove the actuator to get to it. then you have the AC compressor to deal with but it's certainly do-able with a lot of swearing.



Regarding your actuator, Should be an easy swap with a universal actuator. You may need to drill the OEM actuator off its mount and then drill new mounting holes for the new actuator which will be two bolts. Make sure you measure the lengh of the actuator to the wastegate arm so it doesn't remain open. I'm pretty sure the Hyundai Veloster Turbo uses the same mount and actuator. Forge Motorsports make an OEM replacement for the Veloster turbo(its either a K03 or K04) that has the ability to change the spring meaning you can keep the wastegate closed under higher boost pressure.


That is great advise as I might have to upgrade my wastegate actuator. Haven't started to look into it yet, but that is a great head start


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Its pretty tight. Not impossible. you may need to remove the actuator to get to it. then you have the AC compressor to deal with but it's certainly do-able with a lot of swearing.

Regarding your actuator, Should be an easy swap with a universal actuator. You may need to drill the OEM actuator off its mount and then drill new mounting holes for the new actuator which will be two bolts. Make sure you measure the lengh of the actuator to the wastegate arm so it doesn't remain open. I'm pretty sure the Hyundai Veloster Turbo uses the same mount and actuator. Forge Motorsports make an OEM replacement for the Veloster turbo(its either a K03 or K04) that has the ability to change the spring meaning you can keep the wastegate closed under higher boost pressure.
I found this on their website: https://www.forgemotorsport.com/Forge_Motorsport_Turbo_Actuator_for_Hyundai_Veloster_and_Kia_Ceed_GT_16_Turbo--product--1431.html

I guess it's the one you were refering to? It looks very similar to the one on the GQV. The mounts look similar as well.
What spring should you choose to have in it? I'm not too sure how the spring in the wastegate affect boost levels... My car is mapped and have a larger intercooler fitted.
 

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I
I guess it's the one you were refering to? It looks very similar to the one on the GQV. The mounts look similar as well.
What spring should you choose to have in it? I'm not too sure how the spring in the wastegate affect boost levels... My car is mapped and have a larger intercooler fitted.

yeah thats the one. again though, you can get a turbosmart universal actuator or the forge one. there are cheap ones on ebay you can get but they're not much cheaper than the name brand ones. I'd trust a TS or Forge one.

Now spring pressures... difficult to determine but the easiest way is to remove the old one, stick a compressor on it with a gauge, then measure when it opens. then you know the psi and can use a spring as close as possible.
.
 

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yeah thats the one. again though, you can get a turbosmart universal actuator or the forge one. there are cheap ones on ebay you can get but they're not much cheaper than the name brand ones. I'd trust a TS or Forge one.

Now spring pressures... difficult to determine but the easiest way is to remove the old one, stick a compressor on it with a gauge, then measure when it opens. then you know the psi and can use a spring as close as possible.
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Oh dear... This is getting tricky. Can you do that with the actuator still on the car? or does it need to be removed completly first?
I guess it might be a good idea to just change both the actuator and the diverter valve at the same time.
 

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Oh dear... This is getting tricky. Can you do that with the actuator still on the car? or does it need to be removed completly first?
I guess it might be a good idea to just change both the actuator and the diverter valve at the same time.
I don't see why you cant test it on the car. just remove the vacuum line from the actuator and attach your compressor to the actuator while it's still on the turbo. Wouldn't be that hard to remove and replace though.

Yes absolutely. with the bigger intercooler you may find boost is slower to come on, so a stiffer actuator spring and DV will be better for keeping the pressure up.
 

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Where did you guys get the part from; and where did you get it installed?

Any idea which model is compatible with my 2016 1.4MA w/150HP?

I really want to join thios DV+ club:cloud9::thumbu p::driving::yum::angel:
You'll need the T9356 for the MA.

I've ordered it just straight from GFB as at that time it was the cheapest solution.
 

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thx Tim!
Did you install it yourself, or your friends at the tuning shop?
Did it myself, really easy to get to on the MA, you don't have to remove anything nor do you need tiny hands to get to it. You just take the factory valve off and go iniside to "rebuild it" and once done go out and bolt it on again.

The only small challenge lies into removing the factory piston shroud from the body. It can be rather stuck in there but with some patience and a small screwdriver you'll get it out. How to is clearly described in the manual that comes with it.
 

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Again thanks for the useful details.
I am an electronics engr, who once upon the time tested his mechanical talent: FAIL! I required 11 spark plugs for an 8 cylinder engine..........
 

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Again thanks for the useful details.
I am an electronics engr, who once upon the time tested his mechanical talent: FAIL! I required 11 spark plugs for an 8 cylinder engine..........
Life is one big trial and error, we fall and stand up. :biglaugh:

Can't go really wrong in this process though, if you're lucky you'll pop it out quite easily as according to GFB you in some case can just pull it out by hand.

I wasn't so lucky so had to pry it out with a small screwdriver trying to wiggle it out of the housing. Took me a small while but I managed. This is the only small challenge really, other than that it's as easy as it can be.
 

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How's it all going gents?

My Giulietta is currently off the road with a head gasket failure but hopefully it will be covered under insurance. Once it get sorted and approved, I'll be getting a DV+ and an upgraded actuator to add to it then and then a tune.
 
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