[Ralf S.]

My oil pressure gauge is eternally pessimistic and normally hovers around the 3 Bar mark. The manual says that 2.6 Bar means I have a shagged engine, so obviously I want to raise the OP a bit if I can (but not artificially, of course).

I cleaned up the oil pressure sender contact under the distributor but it made no difference to the reading at all.

How can I check that the gauge is actually right, and supposing it is (Tarquini has ventured past Orion and Jupiter in his lifetime) then how can I raise the OP a bit, short of sticking 30W60 oil in it?

He's a regular well-ard (skinny body) V6 with Selenia 10W40 in the sump and otherwise runs nice and smooth.

Ralf S.

 

[marlon]

The pressure should be above 2.5 bars when the oil is hot and the engine is at full revs.

Marlon

 

[Spacecadet]

My V6 shows pressure of 6 Bar when cold, drops to 2.5-3 ish when hot at idle, and will move to 4 Bar on the move (above about 1800-200rpm) and move slowly to 4.5-5.0 at redline.

The book says panic if the pressure won't go above 2.5 Bar and max rpm.

Therefore if it will do 2.5 at max rpm, its all fine and dandy!

 

[Ralf S.]

I guess so. The needle sits down there at just under 3 Bar most of the time and I guess if that was serious I'd have found out about it before now.

But on the gauge 4 Bar is at the 12 o'clock position, so I'm thinking that's where the needle ought to be pointing most of the time.

Oh well... Maybe the gauge is just not aesthetic enough for my tastes.

Ralf S.

 

[bw]

But on the gauge 4 Bar is at the 12 o'clock position, so I'm thinking that's where the needle ought to be pointing most of the time.

...should we also be driving at 80mph whenever possible to keep the speedo needle at 12 o' clock

 

[fletch]

my 1.8 16v sits at only just over 2 but goes to 4 when driving does anyone think this might meen sighns of wear creeping in by the way ive got the dreaded mobil 1 in it ive gotta drain it soon!

 

[Tim Hayes]

Synthetic Oils aren't always best for normal engines, they tend to be designed for high performance needs, same goes for differences in viscosity. If you change from a synthetic to a semi or non synthetic, give the engine a flush.

I run my road cars on Castrol Magnatec, it's more than good enough, a friend sells Castrol oils and talked directly to the Castrol technical department on this.

Older engine designs especially require a higher wighting (ie thicker) as the machining tolerances are poorer (they don't fit together as good as a modern engine).

I know a race engine builder who uses Castrol RS in full race motors, he thinks Mobil 1 is pants, but as with all matters like this, it can be down to personal experience.....

 

[Ralf S.]

80mph.... that's the one! It's just asking for it, M'Lud.

Ralf S.

 

[ledzep]

Mine sits at 4 when cold, drops to 3.8 when warm on idle then at any rev above that sits at 4 again

 

[Ralf S.]

That's what I want mine to do.

Ralf S.