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Just a thanks for this post!

Had a non-working n/s window. With the info from the OP and the suggestion to put tubing on the lock button when refitting the door card it all went very smoothly.

The only point of note was that I had two Torx screws in the leading edge of the door to remove plus one in the door mirror cover.

Problem solved by the application of a larger hammer to the window wind ratchet followed by lashings of WD40 and a full grease up :biglaugh:
 

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Ive always unscrewed the lock-pin and put a drinking straw with a 90 degree bend in it over the lock pin thread and used that to guide the pin into the spot while aiming for the mushroom clips.
 

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Is it possible to remove the door card without opening the door?
A couple kids playing around in the front seats managed to **** my lock... I cant turn the in the keyhole and its impossible to pull the pin inside up.
It keeps locking whenever i try anything.
 

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Is it possible to remove the door card without opening the door?

A couple kids playing around in the front seats managed to **** my lock... I cant turn the in the keyhole and its impossible to pull the pin inside up.

It keeps locking whenever i try anything.

Not without damaging it. There are some screws on side of door card by A pillar that you won't be able to access as a start.

Door cards are relatively cheap and readily available on eBay. So not the end of the world if you did damage it.
 

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If your cable gets stretched (ie: wind catches your door card when dismantling) you'll find the inside handle will be loose and may not even be tight enough to open the door.

To fix you need to take up the remaining slack in the cable using a spacer in the collar. I found the yellow shroud off one of these connectors to be perfect (cut a slit longways allowing you clip it on the cable and slide it into the collar
Very handy thread. I found the above tip did the trick very nicely sorting my slack cable. Door now opens from inside as it should. Thankyou Dan653 for that little gem, saved me getting a new cable.
 

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I've seen a few posts on here about central locking not working, locks bouncing, doors locking and unlocking straight away and the common cause seems to be the Bowden cable that runs from the door handle to the lock mechanism. While I was sorting a squeak in my passenger's door today I thought I'd take a couple of photos to illustrate the right and wrong way to put the door back together, if yours has started playing up after fiddling with the doors.

It's very easy to get wrong. All you need is one jiggle too many when trying to get the door card to sit right on the sassenfrassenrassen mushroom locator thingies :mad: and the little collar can pop out of place. So be patient and check the operation of the lock at all stages :thumbs:

God bless Alfa, three different size allen bolts to get the card off :rolleyes: They're almost all different lengths too, so keep track of which comes from where! You don't actually need to remove the lower door pocket, just the 4mm bolts along the bottom. Two more are hidden behind the speaker and the 5mm one is behind the window switch which just pops out when prised with a flat screwdriver.

When all the bolts are out the card lifts up off the mushroom mountings and is free. Careful with the tweeter and puddle light which can be left plugged in if you only need to get to the cable. Refitting, as they say, is the reverse of removal. Just mind that collar!
Resurrecting this thread as my lock started to bounce and also the spring is fubar since the internal handle has gone all limp!

Looking at the pics on the 1st post, I guess I need to 'simply' unscrew the door handle mechanism to swap over the spring? Does the gold coloured bar the spring is attached simply slide out so I can swap the spring over?
 

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My locks were also bouncing.
When I removed the door panel on the drivers side, I noticed that the cable connected to the inner door handle did not move but only bended when the door handle was operated.
I sprayed some WD40 in the area where the cable is connected to the door lock mechanism and the problem was solved.

same issue..

thanks to this very helpful thread my central locking and bouncing locks are now fixed!!


good effort chaps, can't beat collective knowledge....
 

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same issue..

thanks to this very helpful thread my central locking and bouncing locks are now fixed!!


good effort chaps, can't beat collective knowledge....
+1 replaced both my door cards last weekend and adjusted the passenger window. End result; no more bouncing locks, nice newer cards and no more wind noise/water ingress when washing the car. Thanks to all who posted advice on this thread and to PKR for his advice on another thread about adjusting windows. Old door cards on eBay now... not pristine but not the worst you'll find.
 

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Thanks to all on this thread - got my passenger door card off to fix a window that was stuck down (held the autodrop microswitch in for a few seconds and then it was magically working seconds later) and this thread was very useful in being prepared for getting the card off and on without mucking anything up.
 

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Grrrrrr... spoke too soon. My locks have started bouncing again but only first thing in the morning when it is cool. I'm guessing something needs greasing so any suggestions as to what needs greasing and what sort of grease to use?

With thanks in advance.
 

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Just to add my two cents worth. I have found that it really helps to hold the interior door latch in the open position when re hanging the door cards. This ensures that the bowden cable ferrule stays put in the plastic socket. Works every time.
 

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Grrrrrr... spoke too soon. My locks have started bouncing again but only first thing in the morning when it is cool. I'm guessing something needs greasing so any suggestions as to what needs greasing and what sort of grease to use?

With thanks in advance.
Nellytheroc, My advise is to take the locking mechanism out an clean it well. If the problem persists you need to get a new Electric Motor (60603822). My passenger dor was bouncing, first I cleaned the mechanism and all worked for a few months. But when it started bouncing back I realised that the motor did not have the strength to actuate correctly. By chance I had a spare one. After fitting the motor the bouncing stopped.

I hope it helps
 

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Nellytheroc, My advise is to take the locking mechanism out an clean it well. If the problem persists you need to get a new Electric Motor (60603822). My passenger dor was bouncing, first I cleaned the mechanism and all worked for a few months. But when it started bouncing back I realised that the motor did not have the strength to actuate correctly. By chance I had a spare one. After fitting the motor the bouncing stopped.

I hope it helps
Many thanks... spraying everything and anything with WD40 seems to have done the trick but if the problem returns I'll investigate swapping the motor.
 

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Many thanks... spraying everything and anything with WD40 seems to have done the trick but if the problem returns I'll investigate swapping the motor.
You are welcome. I cleaned my mechanisms with Liqui Moly Rapid Cleaner inside out. They look like new now. Have a look for the small plastic clips if they are not broken ...

Regards
 

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some useful stuff here gents, thanks all.

My problem is slightly different, my PH1 car came with the drivers door cushion trim missing. I have sourced a replacement cushion but I believe that the door card needs to come off to re-fit this cushion?

Other than that above, any tips?
 

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It's an oldie but a goody -

So, I can lock the car with the key IF I use the passenger side door.
I cannot depress the passenger side locking peg to lock the door from within.
The central locking causes the bouncing lock - obviously because the passenger side has a problem.

But what is the problem. The barrel lock works perfectly.
The door release handle works perfectly and has good tension.

Thoughts?
 

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It's the cable from the inner door handle to the lock mech catching (it almost always is :) )
You can lock it with the key because you are applying the force to move the cable,rather than the electrics
 

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My car has had bouncing locks on and off for three years. I looked at the door catch mechanism on the workbench. There are very few parts that the solenoid has to move inside the catch mechanism but i noticed the solenoid does have to rotate part of the lock barrel mechanism. I imagine the lock barrel rotation is simply getting stiff with corrosion so I just sprayed a lubricant into the lock barrel and into the door open plunger from outside while pushing it down. It worked perfectly, when i tried the central locking I thought both door pins where going to shoot through the roof!
 

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What are you folks using in winter to keep the locks from freezing? Silicone spray or something else...
 

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What are you folks using in winter to keep the locks from freezing? Silicone spray or something else...
A good squirt of WD40 seems to work well. It lubricates and more importantly disperses water which stops them from freezing.
 
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