[alf22]

Hi guys,
Had my twinnies rear end in the air today to check to make sure bushes have settled in alright and noticed my offside rear caliper isnt working very well so cleaned it up and is ok now,i am going to replace my rear discs and was wondering are slotted and drilled discs worth putting on the back or not,
cheers craig

 

[Turtle4288]

General forum posts on this say yes... Do it! Not sure where to purchase these from tho.

 

[Ian Lusso]

You can purchase them HERE: Performance CTF Brake Disks and special brake pads ALFA ROMEO GTV - Italian Tuning - Store

 

[NineOneSix]

I just stick to OE personally, it's the pads that do the work anyway.

 

[Ian Lusso]

OE discs warp with my style of driving.

 

[NineOneSix]

You warp the rears?

 

[Gaz]

How the hell do you warp the rears? They only have about 30% efficiency compared to the fronts! If you warp the rears your fronts must be ****ed in no time!

 

[Ian Lusso]

sorry I meant the fronts.

Wait let me explain that: When you fit uprated rear brakes (usually after fitting uprated fronts) you will notice the difference. It was explained to me in this way: Brake disc mass is what determines its heat retention capacity. When better front pads are fitted, the front brakes become more efficient, but build more heat and larger discs can build up more heat before causing brake fade.

Same at the rear. When the rear solid discs are drilled, they have a mass reduction meaning they build up more heat during braking (even though they cool down a little bit faster after braking) and assist in brake pad degassing which improves sustained braking for example going down a long, steep mountain pass. The additional heat makes a better pad compound work more effectively. That's why you can feel the difference, and will only appreciate it once you've experienced it. Once you release the brake pedal, the discs will cool off a bit quicker as well because of it's reduced mass as well as the holes drilled through it.

Now: My front brakes warp if they are OEM, not my rears, sorry if I mislead in that post. I just meant I don't use OEM because they (front discs) warp. :thumbs:

 

[alf22]

Blimey,
so what if i put drilled discs on with feddy2500 pads will this make the front unefficient and cause braking probs,
Option 1,full brake upgrade front and back,
Option 2, standard rear discs with decent pads,

Option 1 sounds good but could result in a severe ear chewing £££££ (but worth it)
Option 2 is safe in all areas.

Im sat with me card out ready but pondering consequences

You lot decide

 

[NineOneSix]

I run OE rear discs and pads with OE front discs and tarox pads, I don't really like the pads TBH

I'm hard on the car, but not on the brakes

If money wasn't an option for me, OE rear discs (brembo OE) DSPF pads, Fronts would be Tarox G88 discs with DS2500 pads.

 

[Mitch916]

Pointless spending extra for drilled / grooved on the rear, unless you just want the look.

 

[alf22]

The look isnt an option as i have the original 16" things with holes round the outside,was going for other wheels but dont like wheel spacers,been down that road before and across it into a barrier,thanx guys will sleep on it and spend some money tommorrow.

 

[alfapash]

Mitch is right, the main stopping power is the Front discs and pads, rears don't do nearly as much as the front, So unless you want the look and are going to do your calipers and don't care about the money, stick to solids on the back.

 

[Turtle4288]

Go for it, buy the full set for your whole car. Sounds like you are interested in the upgrade so why not. Make sure you get a good brake fluid change too

 

[trapp1]

thinking about same thing ? upgrading to drilled discs all round but been told to just do fronts as back dont realy matter. do it though bro if you got the dollers, i would

 

[Dave Brand]

It was explained to me in this way: Brake disc mass is what determines its heat retention capacity. When better front pads are fitted, the front brakes become more efficient, but build more heat and larger discs can build up more heat before causing brake fade.

Same at the rear. When the rear solid discs are drilled, they have a mass reduction meaning they build up more heat during braking (even though they cool down a little bit faster after braking) and assist in brake pad degassing which improves sustained braking for example going down a long, steep mountain pass. The additional heat makes a better pad compound work more effectively. That's why you can feel the difference, and will only appreciate it once you've experienced it. Once you release the brake pedal, the discs will cool off a bit quicker as well because of it's reduced mass as well as the holes drilled through it.

Some muddled thinking there! The only way "better" pads can build up more heat is for the brakes to be used more aggressively. Basically brakes work by converting kinetic energy into heat energy - for a given rate of retardation the heat produced is constant irrespective of pad & disc material or configuration.

Mass reduction is something of a red herring - the total reduction in mass of a drilled disc is, in terms of overall mass, minuscule.

Pad formulation is a compromise. The ideal pad would have a constant friction level at any temperature; in reality, however, the coefficient of friction of organic pads coupled with cast iron discs varies with temperature. For road use the basic requirement is good braking at lower temperatures, which means performance at very high temperatures may be compromised, while for racing applications high temperature performance is paramount so poor performance from cold is an acceptable sacrifice.