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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok so i made thread previously about doing this with one of the "off the shelf" engine conditioner treatments.

So here it is.

I'll do making some more How-to guides along the way with this car.

I'm an auto electrican by trade, so i'm here to help anyone that needs some assistance with maintenance. I'll be doing sparkplugs next, which requires the intake manifold to be removed, i'll do a port and polish on the intake runners while it's off.


So for the procedure i used a off the shelf product made here in New Zealand called CRC GDI Intake valve cleaner, it's also made in North America


it's for direct injection engines specifically. other manufacturers make a similar products.

If you cannot find this product, use a similar one. Others i know of are Threebonds engine conditioner and Subaru upper cyl cleaner. The Subaru one is made by Threebonds, a japanese company. The Subaru one is available from Subaru dealerships.

peugeot, ford and GM also use their own branded product.

This is guide for the 159/Brera 3.2 V6 engine, you can do the same treatment on all GDI engines, just use a different vacuum hose after the MAF sensor.

I know there are some more mechanically minded people out there, so don't feel insulted if it seems like i'm giving you lesson in Automotive : 101

Step 1 :

Turn on engine, heat up to running temperature.

Step 2 :

Open the bonnet, locate the PVC hose, this runs from the right side of the front cam cover to the intake assembly.
Its connects to it between the MAF sensor and the Throttle body. look at photo provided for assistance.




Step 3 :

Pull off the PVC hose from the intake assembly. There is a permanent hose clamp on the end of it, just wiggle it off. It should be seized on, but if it is, use a thin flat head lever it off, use some WD40 or similar if it's proving it be a *******.


Step 4 :

Rev the engine to 2000 rpm and hold it there, you need it to be around 2000 and not much more, to much rev's will cause to much of a vacuum and suck the cleaner/treatment through the cylinder head, and won't give it a chance to soak in the intake manifold and intake ports of the head.

I don't advise you use your wife and girlfriend to assist you with the throttle process, they'll probably over compensate on the throttle to overcome the dying revs and rev the crap out of it, and it will save you having an argument :biglaugh:

I used a few pieces of wood, wedged between the pedal and the front of the drivers seat, and just used the seat motor to push the throttle to 2000 rpm.





Step 5 :

Spray the cleaner/treatment into the open nipple on the Air intake assembly. The one you detached the PCV hose from.

Spray in 30sec intervals, the motor may spurt and carry on a bit, rev's die down etc.. this is normal. don't fret, you just need to keep the revs stable.

Keep spraying in 30 sec intervals until the can is empty.




step 6 :

Reattach the PCV (positive crankcase valve) hose back onto the Intake Assembly. take the wood or wife :biglaugh: off the throttle pedal and let it idle for 30 seconds.

Rev the engine 3 times to 3500 rpm and shut off the engine and let the cleaner/treatment heat soak in the internals for 1 hour.

Step 7 :

After an hour restart the engine, give it a few revs to 3500rpm to purge the carbon smoke/steam out of the engine and exhaust.

You may notice a big cloud of thick white/gray smoke and steam coming out of tail pipes, this is the loosened carbon and vapor. It's normal but your nosy neighbour might think your car is on fire.

Proceed to drive it for 10 minutes.

Give it a bit of a stomp on the pedal a few times, you really want to purge that gunk out of there.



Conclusion :

You should see immediate results, smoother idling, crisper throttle response and a decrease in flatspots in acceleration.

I did a 0-100km/h sprint when i was out for the drive after i did it. It's given the car a bit more poke and it was silky smooth. It idles alot smoother as well.


Happy motoring :byebye:
 

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Just one little point, after using ANY of these valve treatments you MUST change engine oil & oil filter as it utterly contaminates the engine oil. This includes both Petrol & Diesel engines.

Happy Motoring.
 

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My piston rings and valve stem seals are fine thanks. :thumbup:
And if you don't change the oil after doing it they won't be for long. You have been advised. :banghead:
 

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Just one little point, after using ANY of these valve treatments you MUST change engine oil & oil filter as it utterly contaminates the engine oil. This includes both Petrol & Diesel engines.

Happy Motoring.
How can it get into the engine oil ?....there should not be any engine oil North of the piston rings and the cleaner should get instantly burnt and go straight out of the exhaust along with the carbon. If it can get down past the rings and into the oil, carbon build up is the least of his problems!!

On the subject of the cleaner itself, has anyone go any proof that this stuff actually works like before and after pictures of the valve backs etc? I'm not saying it doesn't work (well I might be a bit!!) but I find it difficult to believe that 50,000 miles or whatever of slowly baked on carbon that takes me ages with a wire drill bit to scrape off can be removed in a couple of minutes with a tin of magic spray!!
 

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how can it get into the engine oil ?....there should not be any engine oil north of the piston rings and the cleaner should get instantly burnt and go straight out of the exhaust along with the carbon. If it can get down past the rings and into the oil, carbon build up is the least of his problems!!

On the subject of the cleaner itself, has anyone go any proof that this stuff actually works like before and after pictures of the valve backs etc? I'm not saying it doesn't work (well i might be a bit!!) but i find it difficult to believe that 50,000 miles or whatever of slowly baked on carbon that takes me ages with a wire drill bit to scrape off can be removed in a couple of minutes with a tin of magic spray!!
+1......
 

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A great write up to give people confidence on how to d.i.y clean carbon for dummies ( people like me ), also in the video link it does state use the product every 10k before an oil change.
I do think it's a good idea and not much trouble to do before an oil change.

Edit :- it also states the cleaner removes up to 23% of carbon build up, so that could be less than 23%.
I suppose gradually removing some carbon at a time is a lot better than letting carbon build up, which they heavily do on the intake valves of these engines
£39.50p a can I've found it for

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I found this after a bit of searching.......scroll to the bottom of the page

CRC Intake Valve Cleaner

It looks vaguely believable - but so did VW’s emmission stats.....
i'm changing the plugs next weekend and i have to take off the intake manifold for that. So i'll have a look at the head then and i was going to buff up the runners on the manifold anyway.

vehicle manufacturers use the products on cars at dealerships. when i worked for volvo, they used it quite regularly on their GTDi engines. It won't give you the same results as one of those carbon cleaning machines some workshops have, but it still softens and eats away at the carbon build up, the engine does the rest.

you seen oven cleaner work right? softens and eats away at the carbon in ovens and grill plates.

away, the car idles and drives a whole lot better though.
 

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How can it get into the engine oil ?....there should not be any engine oil North of the piston rings and the cleaner should get instantly burnt and go straight out of the exhaust along with the carbon. If it can get down past the rings and into the oil, carbon build up is the least of his problems!!

On the subject of the cleaner itself, has anyone go any proof that this stuff actually works like before and after pictures of the valve backs etc? I'm not saying it doesn't work (well I might be a bit!!) but I find it difficult to believe that 50,000 miles or whatever of slowly baked on carbon that takes me ages with a wire drill bit to scrape off can be removed in a couple of minutes with a tin of magic spray!!

It can get into the oil very easily. It's very thin liquid! You are also creating a rich burn scenario by spraying it into the intake meaning you get something called bore wash. Piston rings don't seal 100% and having a lovely thin fluid flushing into the bores is an easy way to get that fluid past them and into the oil. Specially if the engine wasn't amazingly warm when carrying out this task...
 

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i'm changing the plugs next weekend and i have to take off the intake manifold for that. So i'll have a look at the head then and i was going to buff up the runners on the manifold anyway.

vehicle manufacturers use the products on cars at dealerships. when i worked for volvo, they used it quite regularly on their GTDi engines. It won't give you the same results as one of those carbon cleaning machines some workshops have, but it still softens and eats away at the carbon build up, the engine does the rest.

you seen oven cleaner work right? softens and eats away at the carbon in ovens and grill plates.

away, the car idles and drives a whole lot better though.
I would be very interested to hear your findings! Getting a first-hand referral makes all the difference. Manufacturers will.......erm.......bend the truth to sell their products - so if you find a noticeable improvement then I will certainly have a go with the product.
 
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