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I think I’m experiencing what is known as ‘mission creep’... I’ve got a front wheel bearing that needs replacing which means taking the hub off and while that’s off it’s worth looking at the drive shaft and if you’re doing one side you have to do the other so I’ve got a couple of spare hubs and drive shafts and new wheel bearings plus the usual rust treatments, paint etc. so I’m not sure of the history of the CV joints that I’ve got. I think maybe I should get the CV joints fully stripped down and cleaned up then re-assess.
Yes that makes sense. The reason I needed to replace mine was because there was no way that the shaft would come out the hub.... Tried everything and it just was not having it..........
 

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Yes that makes sense. The reason I needed to replace mine was because there was no way that the shaft would come out the hub.... Tried everything and it just was not having it..........
It’s the old knackered wheel bearing that’s got me beat at the moment.
 

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I’ve got the bearings... genuine Alfa ones with 10% off at Partsworld. It was getting the old one out that I was having trouble with. But I managed to get it out today with a combination of a bearing puller, penetrating oil, blow torch and a FBH. Just need to clean up the hub, rust proof it and paint it. I’ve given the CV joints a bit of a clean up and they seem to be ok.
 

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I’ve got the bearings... genuine Alfa ones with 10% off at Partsworld. It was getting the old one out that I was having trouble with. But I managed to get it out today with a combination of a bearing puller, penetrating oil, blow torch and a FBH. Just need to clean up the hub, rust proof it and paint it. I’ve given the CV joints a bit of a clean up and they seem to be ok.
Do you mean the hub or the hub carrier? If you are going to paint the hub makes sure you don't paint the mating face with the wheel. That should be kept rust free and as clean as possible (as should the wheel mating face) with only a smear of copper grease on it, else this can cause vibration.
 

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Do you mean the hub or the hub carrier? If you are going to paint the hub makes sure you don't paint the mating face with the wheel. That should be kept rust free and as clean as possible (as should the wheel mating face) with only a smear of copper grease on it, else this can cause vibration.
I probably mean the hub carrier... the big lump of metal that the wheel bearing goes into that bolts onto the bottom of the strut. I’m guessing that the actual hub is the other bit that pushes into the carriers that the wheel bolts go into?

3BB13C6E-AF07-40B8-9FCD-61D6B32B267C.jpeg
 

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Yep, that's the hub carrier. :) They definitely should be given plenty of paint except for the mating faces of course. Yours look amazingly good. I thought mine were beyond repair but amazing what can be done. Some pics in this thread
 

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Yep, that's the hub carrier. :) They definitely should be given plenty of paint except for the mating faces of course. Yours look amazingly good. I thought mine were beyond repair but amazing what can be done. Some pics in this thread
I had spent a bit of time with a wire brush before the photo and it’s come up ok. Did you paint yours silver or black? I’ve got tins of POR15 top coat in both colours. The hubs have come out no problem but old wheel bearing in the other carrier is being a bit reluctant to come out. Having got one out without resorting to taking it to the local garage to be pressed out I’m determined (or possibly plain stubborn or just stupid) to get it out on my own. But all in all, I’m making progress.
 

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I painted mine black. I had to use a lot of brute force to get mine out. In the end I used a really big inch drive impact socket turned upside down, which fitted perfectly into the ball bearings in the race. With the hub carrier supported on blocks of wood or bricks whacked the open end of the socket with a lump hammer with another block of wood to protect it.
 

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Black sounds like a good call for the colour. I bought one of these to get the bearings out. Once I got the first old bearing moving I was able to use a hammer to get it out. The second bearing is more reluctant to move. I’ve left it at work soaking in penetrating oil so hopefully it will come out .

 

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Many thanks to Rod for the original post. I am slowly getting there with my refurb. I’ll be soaking everything in Deox C then painting with POR15 this coming week and hopefully fitting next weekend.
932394
 

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Anyone else having issues inserting more than one photo?

932395
 

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932396
 

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I do like that that inner joint is held together with the exact same bolts and plates that my Lancia Beta ones are!
NB If you have a welder or know someone that does then run a bead of weld around the inside of the wheel bearing outer section (the bit that's usually stuck in the hub) and let it cool. As the weld contracts it will pull the bearing in slightly so it can be tapped out.
 

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So... I’m making progress. Everything is stripped and cleaned up and looks ok. Exposed external surfaces have been wire brushed and treated with Hydrate 80 and POR15. I have only dry assembled the CV joints to make sure they go back together properly (and so I know how to get them back together before everything gets covered in grease). The gearbox end ones went together nicely and have a nice easy smooth movement in all directions. The wheel end ones are a different story. They weren’t as easy to fit together and feel much stiffer to move. Is this normal? Or will it improve once I put the grease in?
 

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So... I’m making progress. Everything is stripped and cleaned up and looks ok. Exposed external surfaces have been wire brushed and treated with Hydrate 80 and POR15. I have only dry assembled the CV joints to make sure they go back together properly (and so I know how to get them back together before everything gets covered in grease). The gearbox end ones went together nicely and have a nice easy smooth movement in all directions. The wheel end ones are a different story. They weren’t as easy to fit together and feel much stiffer to move. Is this normal? Or will it improve once I put the grease in?
You must have lot of patience 😁
 

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You must have lot of patience 😁
I’m doing it at work in tea breaks and lunch break so a little at a time. It’s taking a while but hopefully I’ll get it back together by the end of the week and on the car at the weekend.
 

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I’m doing it at work in tea breaks and lunch break so a little at a time. It’s taking a while but hopefully I’ll get it back together by the end of the week and on the car at the weekend.
Yes that's what I do with the p3 gtvs... Chip away using the ramp at the taxi depot. 2 years refurbing and upgrading Rovero bit at a time. Nearly finished now just track tod and tie rod to do then in for 4wheel alignment. Should sort the handling out especially with all that suspension refurb and upgrade......
 

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I find doing things little by little makes it quite relaxing and therapeutic. I’ve done the front and rear suspension so quite happy with the handling. Once I’ve done the driveshafts, wheel bearings etc it will be time to look at the brakes. They work fine but the callipers would benefit from a bit of paint and for peace of mind, I’d like to replace all the original pipes.
 

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I find doing things little by little makes it quite relaxing and therapeutic. I’ve done the front and rear suspension so quite happy with the handling. Once I’ve done the driveshafts, wheel bearings etc it will be time to look at the brakes. They work fine but the callipers would benefit from a bit of paint and for peace of mind, I’d like to replace all the original pipes.
Yes i put braided brake pipes on my gtv's... Does help maintain pressure when hot, just be sure that they are right length as I did buy a set and 6 months later when changing pads I noticed that the braid has fractured and was chaffing thr hose rubber😳 I purchased new from alfisti and when I compared with the damaged ones they were different lengths. I assume the fracture was because of stress due to the pipes being too long......
 
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