I have the Alfa branded charger and it is just a re-branded CTEK charger. My Giulia isn't my daily driver so I use it quite often, the downside is that Stop/Start works all the time and I forget to switch it off when I get in. I only ever use the crocodile clips direct onto the battery terminals. I'm going to fit the comfort connector, there are a couple to choose from one of them has a traffic light type system in it to show you the level of charge!
Posts by Isotope
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Sorry have to disagree with all of you, the bolt at 45 degrees that clamps the post is perfect for the comfort connector. You guys that connect to the bodywork are actually still connecting to the same place in a roundabout way because the thick black cable from the body connects directly to the body/chassis/engine. Unless there is some sort of diode elsewhere in the negative circuit system I can't see where the advice is coming from? Does anyone have wiring diagrams that show some sort of semiconductor connected to the main negative cable between the battery and the the body, chassis and or engine? I'm not looking for an argument but if I draw an electrical diagram I can't see the logic behind all this advice?
So to be clear there is a device between the negative terminal and the body that can cope with the starter motor cranking current? The IBS does not look big enough but I will take your word for it. As you know I've not had my Giulia for very long and you have been very helpfull regarding map and software upgrades. Best wishes to you.
I would have thought it would look more like this Shunt Resistor for DC 500A 75mV Current Ammeter Analog Panel Meter | eBay
I am also familiar with SAE J1939 canbus systems, particularly Volvo engines and have designed complete agricultural vehicle electrical systems. I still can't understand the difference between the chassis ground and the battery ground post that you are talking about? Please prove me wrong, every day is a school day!
So you had that Hella manual up your sleeve the whole time!
Now I can see a picture of one off of a battery I can see the construction of the terminal post, in the dinge of the boot I couldn't see the seperation of the quick release post from the battery clamp. As I said every day is a school day!!Hi,
Your photo showing the multimeter set on milliamps shows the leads connected to the 10amp and 200milliamp connectors. So I'm not sure what the reading you are getting is, some sort of voltage drop differences across the two meter ammeter inputs. To measure current as Paultrim says the meter needs to be connected in series between one of the line conductors. To measure current you would need to use the common connector on the meter and either of the positive connections depending on current draw. Both inputs are fused and if you were to change the connector to the com connection and a positive connection you will blow the fuse on either of them as you are showing the meter connected to the comfort connector in parallel. Your meter has no impedence to restrict the flow of current in that configuration. To measure current draw you need to remove a connection on either pole and put the meter in the middle. You won't be able to start the car in that configuration as the fuses will blow. I hope that makes sense, just trying to explain how to use the multimeter.
6mm thread 10 mm ac the flats
I had a big ill informed argument with a few people on here about charging the battery stop/start etc and I'm not happy with using a hole in the bodywork to expose paintwork to get a good earth. So I have started to use the terminals under the bonnet(hood in USA) with my charger and it works fine.I know it means having the car with the bonnet open to charge but it is the easiest solution with no modifications or paint removal.
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