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Discussion Starter #1
Just want to confirm the crank bolt is a LH thread (ie turn it clockwise to undo)
I have been trying to get mine out for a week now, i have used the largest rattle gun i could find ( maybe 800-900nm) and i have tried putting a bar on and hitting start (it doesn't move).

Is there something else i am missing?

I have changed the thrust washers and need to replace the front main seal now.
 

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Which engine??

As far as i am aware, the V6 is a conventional RH thread. (so, anti clockwise to undo or Lefty Loosey)
 

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The OP is asking about a 2.0 t-spark based on previous posts...

Yes, the bolt that holds the cam belt drive pulley on is a left hand thread.

(The 4 that hold the aux belt drive pulley on are conventional r/h thread)
 

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If you're replacing the front seal, make sure it's seated properly. They can "pop" if they're not and will generally do so within the first few miles of driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
sorry forgot to put in its a 2.0 ts.
I have tried just about everything i have so i think its time to send it to a work shop and ask them nicely to fix my mess before i break something...
thanks for the help!
 

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I decided to do the cambelt on my V6 whilst swopping the clutch so that I could lock the flywheel when loosing the dreaded nut on the crank. I used a 1"-bar with socket and a 7 feet steel pipe. Had to stand on it and rock up and down putting pressure with my hands on the ceiling in the garage. They can be a real pita.
 

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I decided to do the cambelt on my V6 whilst swopping the clutch so that I could lock the flywheel when loosing the dreaded nut on the crank. I used a 1"-bar with socket and a 7 feet steel pipe. Had to stand on it and rock up and down putting pressure with my hands on the ceiling in the garage. They can be a real pita.
That's how I did it the first time too, after I broke a 1/2" drive breaker bar on it. But if you don't have a windy gun that will do it, the accepted methodology is to drill and split the nut.
 

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My mechanic and I both checked on here first, and were assured it would be clockwise. 4 twisted high strength sockets, and another mechanics more powerful compressor/airline/socket gun later the damn thing was still stuck solid. Then I suggested trying anti-clockwise. Off it came. Try the other way, its highly unlikely you will tighten it any further if wrong.
 

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My mechanic and I both checked on here first, and were assured it would be clockwise. 4 twisted high strength sockets, and another mechanics more powerful compressor/airline/socket gun later the damn thing was still stuck solid. Then I suggested trying anti-clockwise. Off it came. Try the other way, its highly unlikely you will tighten it any further if wrong.
And that's the problem with forums. There's far too many people who read tech advice, then spout it as their own with complete confidence but lack the 1st hand knowledge to know whether what they're saying is correct.

I see it on a regular basis here and find it intensely frustrating.
 

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eLearn states it as a Left Hand thread, torqued to 23 dNm or 170 ftlbs. Not massively tight but probably rusted in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Im going to send it in to a workshop, I have the feeling it may sheer off and I would rather that be on a hoist where people can get at it easily.
I tried 3 different guns 2 pneumatic(ryobi then ampro) then 1 electric snap on
all tried in both directions
tried the 1 meter breaker bar and blip the starter, locked solid...
some one else can do it!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just to drag this up one more time, I was talking to the workshop and their plan is to lock the flywheel through the inspection plate then go hard on it from there.
Why did i not think of that, not having the car to look at now I'm not sure if it was an option while on my back in the driveway.
 
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