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1975 GTJunior Lusso
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
Just wanted to check something with you as I'm relatively new to Alfa ownership. I have a 1300 GT Junior and wanted to know what the correct oil pressure should be? It seems to hover around 20, which disturbed me at first as the dial goes up to 80, so it looks like it's really low! :cool: and then drops slightly on idle. I'm used to a classic mini which is closer to 50-60 psi.

I don't have any warning lights and the car runs well, but that guage just freaks me out!
 

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Alfa oil pressure gauges (and more particularly the electrical sender), are notorious. First (and cheapest) thing to do is to check the sender. If you search on here, or on Alfa BB, you'll find out how to do it.
I'm on my fourth 105 series, and my first two cars (both 2 litre), showed around 70psi cold at 2000 rpm or over, and still 45 psi at idle. Hot figures were still 65psi and 35-ish.
My third car (still have it), is a 2 litre Ti Super Replica, and, being a mild competition motor, I wanted accurate oil pressure figures, so I fitted a hydraulic gauge, with a pipe from the block to the gauge, can't go wrong then.
With a newly rebuilt engine, it has always shown 65 psi cold, 60psi hot at 2000rpm +, and nothing less than 40psi at hot idle.
My newest car is a 47000 mile from new 2 litre Spider Veloce. It still has the original electrical sender and original gauge, and shows figures exactly the same as the above.
A 1300, 1600, and 1750 engine should be the same, as they all utilise the same oil pump.
Don't panic. If the gauge never drops to zero, and the oil light doesn't come on at hot idle, then the most likely culprit is the sender, which can be found on the drivers side of the engine block, (in a RHD car), towards the rear, under the carbs. It is a barrel shaped object, (with a wire attached), and under the "barrel" is a usually 14mm hex so that it can be unscrewed from the block. A bit of a pig to get to, but can be done without removing the carbs. Take the air filter box off to give you more room.
Lets not get to what could be causing low oil pressure, until you've discounted the sender unit first, especially if it drives well, and there are no nasty knocking noises emanating from the bottom of the motor, especially on cold start-up.
Come back to us when you've checked the sender unit / replaced it.
 

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One other thing, if you suspect the sender unit, make sure you get a sender that is compatible with the make of your gauges, ie Jaeger to Jaeger, Veglia to Veglia, as they're different.
 

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1975 GTJunior Lusso
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, mine are Jeager so I'll make sure I get the right one. Strangely it started working correctly for a short time. I cleaned up the contacts, so lets see what happens! At least I know nthing serious is going on. Cheers.
 

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1975 GTJunior Lusso
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Discussion Starter #7
It was more like 40psi at idle/30mph. Most of the roads around me are 30mph so it sits around that mark most of the time - need to give it a good stretch really. In other news, the rev counter stopped working for a few minutes - could be unrealted, but I need to go through it all. I've got some bigger jobs coming up including replacing the thrust washers and possibly getting a steering ider exchange unit as I've noticed there's some play in there. I've been advised to fill the steering box with fluid first to see if that improves things.
 

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Rev counter issue shouldn't be related, it's cable driven from the water pump. What year is your Junior ?
Making sure your steering box is topped up (a good thing), won't fix the idler problem, the idler is at the opposite side of the car to the steering box.So if the play is in the idler, then it will need an idler repair kit :-
By "thrust washers" I'm assuming you don't mean crankshaft thrust washers, but those for the rear T bar :- SU071 SUPERFLEX T-BAR END THRUST WASHER - PAIR ?
Very easy to fit and make a big difference. Fitted a pair to my Spider only a few weeks ago, the originals had disintegrated and fallen out
 

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1975 GTJunior Lusso
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Discussion Starter #9
Yes exactly, rear T bar. There's a bit of a wiggle from the back-end :) - I know what you're sayng about the steering - the feeling was it could improve it in the short term as there is obvious play that is being transfered through the system. I looked into the repair kit, would I need a press as I don't have one? Thanks for all your help, it's much appreciated and good to have your opinion.
 

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Just depends. You shouldn't, but you may need a reamer to fit the new one to your old housing. Again, depends how badly worn it is. I think you get new "glacier" type Bush / bearings with the new kit, and you have to try the new shaft in the idler AFTER the new bearings are fitted inside the housing. See if it turns freely, if it doesn't, then you have to ream.
I've done two now and not had to ream, just one was a bit tight, but after spinning it in a drill for a while, it wore itself in.
 
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