[rd07]

Hi, I've just noticed my coolant is on minimum and I'm due to go away for the week on Monday morning. I've read the handbook and it says to top up with Paraflu UP only but I can't find anywhere that sells it and the Alfa parts departments closed at lunchtime and are shut tomorrow.

Anyone have any ideas where I can get some from in the West Midlands before Monday? Thanks

 

[Mike Multiair]

I wouldn't worry too much...just top up with water as it's summer ( yes it really is ! ) and no risk of anything freezing up. I think the that book says you need to use de-ionised or distilled water ? Anyway when winter approaches you can get the concentration checked or drain out and replace with new Paraflu.

 

[Cuore_Sportivo_155]

I'm running a 25% concentration during summer, before winter I empty the header and fill with 100% pure BASF Glysantin G30 (that's what paraflu is), which brings the concentration up again.

This way I renew part of the coolant yearly, and remove contaminated (used) fluid twice per year.

 

[symon]

I have just had a look and the Giulietta is supposed to use coolant of CUNA NC 956-16, ASTM D 3306 spec.

I haven't done mine yet, but would use the correct stuff at the nominal concentration (50/50) all year around, and leave it for the 5 years or so it is supposed to last.

This is cheap enough and meets the specs...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LONGLIFE-...426333?hash=item3f581fea9d:g:WboAAOSwvgdW58oS

 

[Cuore_Sportivo_155]

I don't want 50/50 when it's not needed, because you're effectively reducing the cooling performance. The glycol can only hold about half as much heat as water can (for the same temperature rise). You're also increasing the nucleate boiling point, which increases the temperature of the cilinder walls and valve seats - resulting in more wear. The valve seats get significantly hotter, we're talking 50°c easy... Also, you'll end up with a bigger temperature difference between where the coolant enters the engine, and where it exits. Your oil will run warmer aswell. Warmer oil is thinner (both kinematic and absolute viscosity) and oxidises quicker.

None of this is desireable. It's the easiest option, no doubt. But far from the best. Still you could do worse, like running more than 50% coolant.

http://www.oysterquartz.net/BITOG/SAE082807.jpg

those specs are basic, btw.