[GhostyDog]

Hi,

Looking for a bit of help with my coilover setup.

I have purchased the Eibach Pro Street S kit and am looking to have it fitted in the next week or so.

In the technical data for the 147 GTA it says the following.

Approximate adjustment range A in mm is 25mm for the front shock and 35mm for the rear.

Approximate wheel hub centre to wheel arch measurements are

Front 335mm to 360mm
Rear 340mm to 375mm

I have measured the stock suspension and maybe coincidentally, maybe not, the stock hub centre to wheel arch is approximately the same as the maximum height adjustability of the Pro Street Coilovers.

I found a good explanation and schematic of coilover design (attached) on another car related site which explains that if I set the Spring Perch to maximum height adjustability I'll have minimal up travel as the spring will be compressed, setting to the lowest point would have the opposite affect (hope I have that the right way around) so I need to choose a setting that is somewhere midway or a split like 60/40 up/down travel.

I am planning on going for the following.

Front - Going for a initial hub centre to wheelarch measurement of 350 with settling getting me into the 345-340 range

Rear - Going for an intial hub centre to wheel arche measurement of 355 with settling getting me into the 350-345 range

A total lowering of

Front up to 20mm
Rear up to 30mm

Can anybody give me an reasons to change these settings? I've gone for what I think may still give travel in both directions whilst giving me a decent drop. There's been no precise science though and have no idea how this willa ffect handling.

The roads where I live have lots of unexpected changes of cambers and dips and crests (Pennines) and I mainly drive back roads with a small amount of A roads.

Any help much appreciated.

Sean

 

[davealfa11]

the only way to set up ride height is by feel,i would set them to standard ride heieght then go for drive and see difference
then lower them to max and then do same ,dont forget too low and youll have too much camber on the front
then set up mid point and drive
on adjusting measure how many turns on each
takes time i know but worth it
keep drop constant dont drop rear more.you need nose down stance

 

[GhostyDog]

the only way to set up ride height is by feel,i would set them to standard ride heieght then go for drive and see difference
then lower them to max and then do same ,dont forget too low and youll have too much camber on the front
then set up mid point and drive
on adjusting measure how many turns on each
takes time i know but worth it
keep drop constant dont drop rear more.you need nose down stance

Can I adjust them on the car then? Without taking the wheels off???

 

[JJBMotors]

No you need the wheels off

 

[GhostyDog]

No you need the wheels off

Aw

 

[rigsby]

hasnt bacon got coilovers???

 

[davealfa11]

quicker off....i would measure your spring free length of original shock,i know from my kw coil overs i fitted them so they had preload set equally fitted on car then wound them up to ride height 25mm below ride height of original ride height baring in mind my cars werent veloce
i would contact eibach and ask them what fitted length they suggest for initial install

 

[bacon]

Hi Sean,

You should still be able to adjust them without taking the wheel off but it is easier to actually adjust the spring seat without the wheel in place.

I would go out and get some wheel to arch measurements for you but me cars in for MOT.

When Pabloss and myself (mainly Pabloss:lol fitted mine, we just done a guess height that was exactly half way down the thread all round (I think), fitted them and lo-and-behold, that guess was just about perfect with minimal adjustments needed from myself over the next few weeks. So, my advice is probably pretty rubbish for you. :lol:

hasnt bacon got coilovers???

yep, theres loadsa peeps on here with them like.

 

[GhostyDog]

Hi Sean,

You should still be able to adjust them without taking the wheel off but it is easier to actually adjust the spring seat without the wheel in place.

I would go out and get some wheel to arch measurements for you but me cars in for MOT.

When Pabloss and myself (mainly Pabloss:lol fitted mine, we just done a guess height that was exactly half way down the thread all round (I think), fitted them and lo-and-behold, that guess was just about perfect with minimal adjustments needed from myself over the next few weeks. So, my advice is probably pretty rubbish for you. :lol:

I might just do that then, set em halfway in the adjustment range and suck it and see.

Cheers mate and everyone else who has posted

 

[RossoGT]

Nice buy! Lets us all no how you get on with them fitted. Im realy tempted to buy these for the summer .

 

[George K]

In general for a FWD car you want less bump than droop at the front (with a target of circa 45-50 mm bump minimum) - to help traction, but very little droop at the rear (improves roll stiffness once three wheeling), and is more progressive then running a stiff rarb. This may give the car a starnge rake if the travels and shaft lengths are not optimum - so it might be a bit of a compromise.

 

[jack75]

Hello

I bought KW coilovers v2 for 147 GTA.

Has someone advice to set-up for a road use ? Or is the factory set-up the best set-up ?

Thank you

jack

 

[davealfa11]

Hello

I bought KW coilovers v2 for 147 GTA.

Has someone advice to set-up for a road use ? Or is the factory set-up the best set-up ?

Thank you

jack

have you fitted them yet?


basic factory settings ok for road if you want to go for a quick blast ,increase rear rebound half turn off fully in :thumbs:

 

[jack75]

No they will be fitted by a garage next week and I don't know what instructions I should give to it for the set-up

 

[davealfa11]

ok

ask them to take ride heights of car on all 4 corners
get them to build shocks with coil overs ,fronts they have to use original top mounts if i remember
ask them to build shocks with spring so there is just a little bit of pre load and measure from eye hole to spring platform and make sure they are same front axle and for rear axle(remember front and rears will be different)
fit them to car ,,now the car will be very low , roll car forwards and back to settle suspension
wind collars( count every revolution) up to get ride height same on each axle but 10mm from original ride height,make sure you have front lower than back (remember too low a ride height at front ,and you will have excess camber and you'll scrub hell out of your tyres
there's rear adjustment on camber ,push top of wheel to set until proper alignment at a quality alignment centre set to 0mm parallel

 

[jack75]

Thanks for all !!!!

 

[George K]

At the risk of being controversial, I would not recommend setting a road car to 0.00 toe at the rear. It is more normal to have 10' to 20' toe-in, as this gives more stability and predictability, particularly on cold tyres or in the wet. Even for sprints and hill climbs 0.00 or toe-out is rare - for a track car running on tyres which have had time to get hot then up to 1.00 out is not unheard of, but even so can be very exciting!

 

[Resonance]

Do the job properly and get it corner weighted.

Damn I need to take my own advice.

 

[davealfa11]

At the risk of being controversial, I would not recommend setting a road car to 0.00 toe at the rear. It is more normal to have 10' to 20' toe-in, as this gives more stability and predictability, particularly on cold tyres or in the wet. Even for sprints and hill climbs 0.00 or toe-out is rare - for a track car running on tyres which have had time to get hot then up to 1.00 out is not unheard of, but even so can be very exciting!

Rear should be toe-in 0deg27'± 9'
sorry it should be i was thinking of fronts

Do the job properly and get it corner weighted.

Damn I need to take my own advice.

be ok till you get passengers in car ,think ride height be suffice unless he is just taking it on track:thumbs: