There's a how to on here somewhere which I followed when I did mine it was great and I had no real problems other than those that were pointed out to be likeky in the guide. If the quoted crossmember means the subframe, you don't have to lower or loosen that at all the box will come out with it firmly in place you'll need the airbox out though. You do need to get the box weight supported in a sling from your engine hoist or similar. When the box slides off the studs you need to tilt it anticlockwise ( viewed from nearside ) to clear the antirollbar mounts etc then move it towards the space where the airbox was and plonk it down. if you can't get the upper balljoint or lower balljoint off without damage you can unscrew the lower suspension arm bush bolts and get the clearance for the driveshaft that way but be careful with the brake fluid lines.Lower the crossmember, after disconnecting the rear engine-gearbox mount.
I don't know if you can come at it from the other side but it would need a bloody long extension if you could and I suspect that the large manifold would block access. you have to come at it from the near side, hook the ring over the nut and pull it on then you can unscrew it, even then it's tricky to see what your doing. if you have big hands like me only room for one at a time under there, dental mirror might help you.Thanks for that one, I have saved it as part of my manual. If I may ask, will not a power bar work with the relevant length extension bar+socket. The head on a p/bar can rotate 90 deg left/right. Come to think of it, judging by your pic, will not a rachet+extension work?
Interesting info here guys, for the less spanner worth among us what the usual garage price for a 156 v6 clutch replacement?
Mine appears to be slipping at high revs and there's vibrations on the pedal so I reckon some preventative action is required! Would just like to assess the credit card damage first!