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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there, I am in need of help, I am looking for info regarding the removal and replacement of my 156 (V6) gear box. I have a clutch replacement coming up pretty soon which I want to tackle myself.
 

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Probably need to remove the battery tray and the inlet air trunking etc. Disconnect earth strap to gearbox and wiring such as reverse light switch connector. You need to remove the slave cylinder, as the release arm has to swing back clear of the release bearing. You also need to disconnect the gear change cables at the gearbox end. Disconnect both drive shafts, including the cross-shaft across the back of the engine - probably easiest to split the hubs from the bottom wishbones to allow the hubs and driveshafts to swing out of the way. Disconnect the exhaust down-pipes from the manifolds (I think you need to do both, but perhaps only the front one.....) and from the cat so they are out of the way. Lower the crossmember, after disconnecting the rear engine-gearbox mount. Undo the starter (very difficult access I think, not sure if you have to remove rear manifold) Undo bellhousing bolts and gearbox mount to chassis leg, remove gearbox.......

Sure I've probably forgotten a few things.....
 

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The starter motor! Pretty much the worst bit of the whole painful exercise.

I did this last year, it is a tough job to do at home,not for the faint hearted. You will need to make a starter motor bolt removal tool. I will post a photo of mine if you need it - basically a Halfords gooseneck spanner modified after a session in a hot oxy flame
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi RXE, yes I would very much appreciate a pic of that spanner some time please, and thank you once again for the info.
 

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The modified spanner for the starter motor bolt is the key to this job. Seriously consider replacing the crankshaft oil seal while you're in there. I'm assuming you'll do the clutch release bearing and machine the flywheel. There are pictures of the spanner on the web somewhere. If you can't find anything PM me with your email address.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The oil seal is first on the list etc, if the f/wheel is still in order, must it go to the machine shop anyway? Certainly if there are any signs of ridges/grooves etc, no question it will be handed in for machining. I see King Tony tools happen to sell a set of very nice starter motor spanners of different sizes, kind of half moon shaped...
 

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Alfa do a special tool for their mechanics for the starter motor bolt I believe. Not sure if there is a way to buy Alfa tools or not, but if you are friendly with your local dealer you could always ask to see it.
Many years ago my local mechanic used the 'bend and old spanner to suit' trick, but you will need some decent heat to do that - its a bit of a pig.
 

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Starter spanner

Lower the crossmember, after disconnecting the rear engine-gearbox mount.
There's a how to on here somewhere which I followed when I did mine it was great and I had no real problems other than those that were pointed out to be likeky in the guide. If the quoted crossmember means the subframe, you don't have to lower or loosen that at all the box will come out with it firmly in place you'll need the airbox out though. You do need to get the box weight supported in a sling from your engine hoist or similar. When the box slides off the studs you need to tilt it anticlockwise ( viewed from nearside ) to clear the antirollbar mounts etc then move it towards the space where the airbox was and plonk it down. if you can't get the upper balljoint or lower balljoint off without damage you can unscrew the lower suspension arm bush bolts and get the clearance for the driveshaft that way but be careful with the brake fluid lines.
Attached is my attempt on the starter spanner, made from the end sawn off a 12 point socket welded to a sawnoff right angle screwdriver ( the first time I've found a use for it ) with a bit of aluminium tube banged on the end. It's helped me with two clutches and a gearbox change now. I'm sure others have done more elegant solutions but hey it gets the job done
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for that one, I have saved it as part of my manual. If I may ask, will not a power bar work with the relevant length extension bar+socket. The head on a p/bar can rotate 90 deg left/right. Come to think of it, judging by your pic, will not a rachet+extension work?
 

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On the old 12v engine you could get the starter motor bolt from the rh wheelarch with several long extensions joined together. Haven't had the pleasure on a 24v installation though.
 

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Thanks for that one, I have saved it as part of my manual. If I may ask, will not a power bar work with the relevant length extension bar+socket. The head on a p/bar can rotate 90 deg left/right. Come to think of it, judging by your pic, will not a rachet+extension work?
I don't know if you can come at it from the other side but it would need a bloody long extension if you could and I suspect that the large manifold would block access. you have to come at it from the near side, hook the ring over the nut and pull it on then you can unscrew it, even then it's tricky to see what your doing. if you have big hands like me only room for one at a time under there, dental mirror might help you.
 

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If you have a CF3 (cats in the manifolds), you have absolutely zero chance of getting the starter motor bolts with a long extension. Trust me, I tried, with the smallest snap-on 1/4" drive, with their fancy knuckle head sockets, all that happened was that the sockets got stuck behind the starter.

You might be able to do it on a CF1 or 2 with no cats in the manifolds. Never tried one of these.

Best thing to do is to make a tool and spend 15 minutes undoing the thing, 1/32 of a turn at a time.
 

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Interesting info here guys, for the less spanner worth among us what the usual garage price for a 156 v6 clutch replacement?

Mine appears to be slipping at high revs and there's vibrations on the pedal so I reckon some preventative action is required! Would just like to assess the credit card damage first!
 

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Interesting info here guys, for the less spanner worth among us what the usual garage price for a 156 v6 clutch replacement?

Mine appears to be slipping at high revs and there's vibrations on the pedal so I reckon some preventative action is required! Would just like to assess the credit card damage first!

Exactly what happened to mine which ended up terminal for my ownership of the car.

Nobody would commit the time to change or just quoted me £1000+.

After three weeks and two let downs by garages I threw in the towel and sold it. Really gutted to lose it but I was fed up with lectures about the cars age and value verses repair cost.

Thankfully it was purchased by an enthusiast who got it done and she lives on. Just wish that person could have been me.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My first replacement at 200 000km cost approx R13000.00 (RSA). Added bonus, I had two gear box mounting bolts missing.
 

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Oh bloody hell I was hoping it would be cheaper than that! It already needs the front suspension (cost?) doing and a probably a cambelt soon too.

Nuts.
 

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Clutch will always be a bit pricey on a FWD V6 due to the space it takes up.
Also its quite technical and awkward.

I bet some times its just as easy to take the entire engine out to do the job. Least access would be easy enough that way.

I'm surprised you couldn't just take the car to Autolusso or another specialist that would do it mind. Especially if you have the cash.
 
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