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Discussion Starter #1
HI Folks,

I think I have a problem with the drive train in my 2001 CF2 GTV V6. Every so often the front left of the car clunks when the it is gear. When this is happening I can stop it by depressing the clutch. Releasing the clutch starts it up again.
It will be like this for a week or so, then just as quickly as it starts it will disappear.

When it happened the first time I found the inner near side CV joint had loose bolts (the 8 or so hex bolts). I tightened these up and within a day or so it had stopped. Last time the noise started I booked it in at a friendly garage, but true to form the clunking stopped the day before and they were unable to see or feel anything wrong.

This time around it feels like the noise is more pronounced when turning right.

So to me it feel like it could be the half shaft/CV joints.

Are there any other suggestions to look at? It is wheel/road speed related as in it is the same tempo even if I switch gears.

If it is the drive shaft, is this the correct procedure for replacing it?

1. Hub Nut off
2. Bottom wishbone ball joint split
3. Drop link off
4. Drain gearbox oil - (approx 2 litres, refilled through the dipstick hole?) is this part necessary?
5. With wheel on full lock, gently tap the drive shaft from the hub.
6. Remove drive shaft
7. As they say in the Haynes manuals. Rebuilding is the reversal of the above. With a new drive shaft and hub nut

If the consensus is to replace the drive shaft, are there any preferred suppliers? As the ball joints need to be split, should they be replaced as well?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Once again the clunk clunk clunk has gone.... I'm still looking to stop it from ever coming back, does any one have any opinions on the cause or things to check?
 

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The fact that it stops when you depress the clutch points to the differential unit so doubt the half shaft is the cause unless the driveshaft its not seated properly, otherwise i would point you towards the top mount bearing or even the disk stone guard scraping against the disk (its a rubbish design that sits loosely on the lower wishbone balljoint). You could try to see if the driveshaft is loose by removing the hubnut as you describe and seeing if you could push it in/out of the differential housing easily. If so you then you can fix it by replacing the circlip on the end (youll see what i mean when you pull the driveshaft out)

Your procedure is correct. I would also undo the steering joint and the hub to upright bolts. Place a jack under the hub and raise it to make removing the droplink easier. Yes you will need to drain the oil or it will pour out of the hole when you withdraw the driveshaft (a £20 lesson I learned last week) You'll have fun removing the hub nut unless you have access to an impact wrench, and youll need a thin walled socket to reach it
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The fact that it stops when you depress the clutch points to the differential unit so doubt the half shaft is the cause unless the driveshaft its not seated properly, otherwise i would point you towards the top mount bearing or even the disk stone guard scraping against the disk (its a rubbish design that sits loosely on the lower wishbone balljoint). You could try to see if the driveshaft is loose by removing the hubnut as you describe and seeing if you could push it in/out of the differential housing easily. If so you then you can fix it by replacing the circlip on the end (youll see what i mean when you pull the driveshaft out)

Your procedure is correct. I would also undo the steering joint and the hub to upright bolts. Place a jack under the hub and raise it to make removing the droplink easier. Yes you will need to drain the oil or it will pour out of the hole when you withdraw the driveshaft (a £20 lesson I learned last week) You'll have fun removing the hub nut unless you have access to an impact wrench, and youll need a thin walled socket to reach it
Thanks Sraouf,

I'll check out the top mount bearing and the stone guard, with the hope that they could be the cause over a differential!

The noise has stopped again, whilst I think short term its good, I'd like to get it fixed properly.

Is there a way to test/check the diff in situ?
 
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