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Discussion Starter #1
Had a go with my Bilt Hamber Medium Autoclay today!

Dragged loads of crud out of the paintwork (not been done in at least 35k, parked all day in an industrial area etc..), and the bits I clayed feel smooth and lovely!

Seemes to take bloody ages though... In about 1-2 hours I managed the bonnet, front bumper, windscreen, and two front wings... Needed about 3-5 passes over each area of panel before the scratchy/dragging feeling passed and it felt totally smooth, and I used plenty of water from a spray bottle as lube.. Definitely got the hang of telling the difference between dragging when the clay was too dry and when it was dragging on bonded junk..

No downward pressure, jut the weight of my hand/clay and running it nice and light over the paint. I was using a flattened nugget of clay that was about 1/8th of the total bar, and folded/turned it regularly to expose a fresh surface...

Upshot is that the coat of Cherry Glaze that went o top of the freshly clayed surface was super super easy to apply... Just zipped along, and looks lovely now it's buffed off!

So does it take everyone this long to clay? Will have to finish the job next weekend now!
 

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Did you de-tar the car first before claying ? That usually take a good while but it's worthwhile doing as it makes claying easier (& faster) & reduces the chances of scratching the car when claying.
Claying the whole car takes me < 1 hour.
 

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Nope, just went straight in with the clay after washing/drying...

Only remotely de-tarring product I have is a bottle of Simoniz Insect and Tar remover... Might give the panels a wipe over with that before claying next time!
 

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You should always de-tar first. There's a high likelihood of grit inside the tar, which could be dragged across the paintwork as you clay the panel, scratching the paint in the process.
Alan
 

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De-tar first, rinse the car, dry it then use fallout remover over the whole car, rinse again and then clay. That should make the whole process MUCH quicker.
So two additional stages before claying is still quicker than jumping right in with the clay?

At the rate my "car cleaning box" is filling up, I can see myself getting a proper DAS6 Pro polisher by this time next year!!!
 

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So two additional stages before claying is still quicker than jumping right in with the clay?

At the rate my "car cleaning box" is filling up, I can see myself getting a proper DAS6 Pro polisher by this time next year!!!
This is the trap i fell into :lol: now its obsessive cleaning!
 

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So two additional stages before claying is still quicker than jumping right in with the clay?

At the rate my "car cleaning box" is filling up, I can see myself getting a proper DAS6 Pro polisher by this time next year!!!
Those two additional steps take about 15 mins and remove most of the organic, metallic and tar contamination. Claying afterwards will take about 20 mins tops as most of the contamination will have been removed already.

Trust me, I do this several times a week.
 

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Those two additional steps take about 15 mins and remove most of the organic, metallic and tar contamination. Claying afterwards will take about 20 mins tops as most of the contamination will have been removed already.

Trust me, I do this several times a week.
Awesomesauce!!!

On the list: Autobrite Just-The-Tonic, Bilt Hamber Korrosol, and another pile of microfiber cloths!
 

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Awesomesauce!!!

On the list: Autobrite Just-The-Tonic, Bilt Hamber Korrosol, and another pile of microfiber cloths!
Korrosol is fantastic stuff and perfect for the job (plus it doesn't smell like sh*t like all other fallout removers do)...

Here's a Saab 9-3 I did a while ago. Barely took any claying after that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Finished the rest of the bodywork today!

This time I came a little more prepared... Gave it all a good wipe down with Simoniz Bug/Tar remover, then followed up by a spritzing with Bilt Hamber Autowheel...

Now I know it says on the autowheel not to use on "non-wheel" surfaces.. But the guys at Bilt Hamber admit that it's 95% the same as Korrosol.. Just a few thickeners to make it viscous and clingy on the wheels, and a detergent to help shift the wheel muck... I figured as I was stripping most of the protection/sealant then that detergent wasn't going to harm things! Spritzed on, waited a minute or so, power-washed off... Lovely job!

The clay positively flew over the paintwork this time :D

Will get a bottle of Korrosol for the Spring claying though :thumbs:
 

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Finished the rest of the bodywork today!

This time I came a little more prepared... Gave it all a good wipe down with Simoniz Bug/Tar remover, then followed up by a spritzing with Bilt Hamber Autowheel...

Now I know it says on the autowheel not to use on "non-wheel" surfaces.. But the guys at Bilt Hamber admit that it's 95% the same as Korrosol.. Just a few thickeners to make it viscous and clingy on the wheels, and a detergent to help shift the wheel muck... I figured as I was stripping most of the protection/sealant then that detergent wasn't going to harm things! Spritzed on, waited a minute or so, power-washed off... Lovely job!

The clay positively flew over the paintwork this time :D

Will get a bottle of Korrosol for the Spring claying though :thumbs:
Yeah, Auto Wheel is very similar to Korrosol. It's slightly less aggressive and has de-greasers and detergents. It should still be safe on bodywork as it's PH neutral and let's face it, the paint on wheels really isn't any different to the paint anywhere else on a car anyway!

Glad it sped things up for you, these little things make the mundane task of detailing your car that little bit more enjoyable.
 
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