Probably the battery. Try turning off and on again 5 times. This usually clears "faults", failing that a ODB dongle should be able to clear it, I've got a cheap Bluetooth one and an Android app called Car Scanner.

 

Is the DNA switch still working - usually when the EML (Check Engine Light) comes on DNA does not work, its probably due to a low battery volts.

 

No DNA doesn't work I'll have to get a battery charger or wait until I get my new quad when Beechdale open

 

The battery is to blame for a lot of errors and foibles in the car but not usually to blame for CEL. If the CEL is lit, Check Engine message active and DNA reverts to N, it is usually an error in the PCM (a.k.a ECU). You will need an OBD reader to check codes. Even if the car is post Jan 2018 which will have SGW, you should still be able to read the codes, just not clear them.

If the battery is faulty or low in charge you can get a lot of warnings on the dash but usually not CEL.

 

OH dear I don't have OBD reader . Is it OK to leave it and still drive it as Im swapping it when Beechdale opens

 

So I charged the battery , didn't take much , CEL still on so I ask the dealer if OK to drive and they say phone the Alfa breakdown number .
I phone them and they say if its running OK take it to the dealer to have the warning light reset .

Anyway its a great reason that I can use on the missus as to why the car was changed to a Quad , if she even notices

 

my CEL and start stop warning lights have just gone off at last

 

I've had the same issue in my Super. The car has been in the garage for 2 weeks so could it be a low battery? Pretty rubbish if it is as our Mercedes has been sat around for the same time but has no issues. This car is beginning to annoy me now.

 

I have said this previously. CEL (Check Engine Light) is not due to low battery. You may get other warnings to do with AST, ESC etc. with low battery. But CEL is only set when one of the sensors feeding to the ECU detects a persistent or standing error when the engine is running, hence check engine. There are other battery threads which discuss trickle charging but that is to keep it charged and ability to start after prolonged periods of being parked up. Have either of you plugged in an OBD code reader to check what the fault is/was?

Here is a simple one that connects to your phone via Bluetooth which I have been using for 3 years (REMEMBER TO REMOVE IT FROM OBD PORT AFTER USE ELSE IT WILL DRAIN BATTERY):

obdator OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner, Black OBD2 Reader Car Scanner OBDII Diagnostic Scanner Auto Check Car Engine Fault Bluetooth Scanner Tool for Android PC : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Buy obdator OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner, Black OBD2 Reader Car Scanner OBDII Diagnostic Scanner Auto Check Car Engine Fault Bluetooth Scanner Tool for Android PC at Amazon UK. Free delivery on eligible orders.

www.amazon.co.uk

To use with this App - TORQUE PRO (£3.99 from Play store):

Torque Android app lets you tap into the brains of your car

We take a look a the Torque app for Android and a OBD2 bluetooth adapter that is required for the full functionality of the app.

www.androidauthority.com

An alternative OBD reader also to use with Torque pro:

Torque Pro Android OBD Bluetooth Fault Scanner/Diagnostic Code Reader: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

Buy Torque Pro Android OBD Bluetooth Fault Scanner/Diagnostic Code Reader at Amazon UK. Free delivery on eligible orders.

www.amazon.co.uk

DO NOT bother with the supplied software that comes with the adaptors. Use Torque, it can do a lot more than just check and clear errors, it can log live data, plot sensor values and infinitely customisable if you are so inclined.

 

I have said this previously. CEL (Check Engine Light) is not due to low battery. You may get other warnings to do with AST, ESC etc. with low battery. But CEL is only set when one of the sensors feeding to the ECU detects a persistent or standing error when the engine is running, hence check engine.

This may well be true - I bow to your superior knowledge - however, a low battery can create fault conditions that will then throw up a CEL . I had a CEL a couple of times and had Alfa Assist out to look at it; he was able to reset the CEL. but the fault code related to failure of the turbo coolant pump and it was subsequently replaced under warranty, at which time they also recharged the battery. Some months later I had a repeat - same problem, same code, Alfa Assist reset the CEL again but this time it came back again almost immediately. Back to the dealer, battery recharged and all well again.

I suspect that there was nothing wrong with the coolant pump in the first place, but it is electrically driven and a low battery maybe causes it to show a fault condition (I'll admit I don't know the detail of how or why - maybe it doesn't run fast enough?).

As you say, low battery doesn't trigger the CEL directly, but other battery-related faults do, so it's a knock-on effect, but all you see (in the absence of a code reader) is the CEL.

 

@peralfaadastra , your reply seems to have got buried in quote.

Got the gist of it though.

I understand what you are saying. Most workshops solution seems to be if they do not find an active fault is to charge the battery in the first instance. Every time I leave my car for anything they seem to charge the battery. It is unlikely they changed your coolant pump without checking it. Fairly easy to do. It is worth thinking about the battery if it happened a second time with the same fault I suppose. My only challenge is, a CEL will only set when the engine is running and if the battery is low the Intelligent alternator would charge the battery at full voltage and also provide supply to the electric pump while engine is running. But hey who knows, the whole charging system is too complicated for it's own good. It could be that there is power interruption or lower than threshold voltage triggering an intermittent fault eventually resulting in a CEL. But checking the OBD code will clear the doubts yes.

 

@peralfaadastra , your reply seems to have got buried in quote.

Hi MG. Yeah, my mistake. Think I've figured it out now.

IBS too complicated for its own good? Too true!!

 

You're starting to win me over with your unbridled enthusiasm for OBD readers MG, especially now you've shown how cheap they can be with your links. I thought they were around £100 to buy.
However, you won't be surprised to know that I'm one of those old curmudgeons who doesn't live their lives through a piece of plastic melded to the end of their arm but, if need be, I'll dig my phone out of the glove-box and charge it up. I did though come across what looks to me like a self contained unit listed on Amazon, which I have linked below

OBDKCAN OBD 2 Reader, OBD2 Scanner OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Tool for Car Engine OBD2/EOBD Fault Code Reader CAN Scan Tool: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

OBDKCAN OBD 2 Reader, OBD2 Scanner OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Tool for Car Engine OBD2/EOBD Fault Code Reader CAN Scan Tool: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

www.amazon.co.uk

I would only be interested in reading fault codes so do you think this one would be any good?

 

@GVblue the one you linked sounds fine. There are a few ones at the same price range. Just pick any with lots of good reviews. You can both check and clear codes. I have one of these self contained units as well from 7 years ago which still works.

 

Thanks MG, looks like I'll be taking the plunge.

 

Ran the car for about 20 miles and the 'Check Engine' & 'Start-Stop Unavailable' warnings have gone off so I can only presume it was the battery that needed charging..

 

I've had my first EML on and start stop inactive. Called Alfa Roadside and they sent local mechanic to look. He wasn't hugely familiar with Giulia but did question battery. However, after reading error codes, seems like mine has a Lambda fault U1008-00 (LIN 1 Bus) and another undocumented (2BC100H/2867456).
Will book in as soon as dealer reopens (no doubt to experience the joy of their mint green Fiat 500 courtesy car!!!)

 

At least they managed to read the codes. Those two are unusual. Having said that if you read the various modules with MES there are a few comms error codes which are always there on and off. Hopefully dealer should be able to figure it out. Did he try clearing the codes?

 

He did MG, but they wouldn't budge. Thanks for input, really want to get it sorted when I can!
PS is your exhaust sold as well as the wheels?!

 

PS is your exhaust sold as well as the wheels?!

Nope. Couple of interests but with the lockdown and not knowing what is going to happen with my next purchase it's all on hold. I will update that thread once the uncertainty lifts.

 

Im getting something similar.
It all started when I changed my front pads. This triggers every single warning light in the world (me changing my pads might be why your lights came on as well hehe).
As the car has SGW I had to go to authourised dealership to get the BBW errors cleared, however he couldnt clear one for "communication to intelligent alternator module interupted"
This error keeps the EML/CEL light on and disables the DNA features. The battery wasnt disconnected at all (probably shouldve been) but Im amazed that changing your brake pads can affect just about every system in the car.
Before changing the pads there where no errors and everything worked fine.
However I can promise you battery charging errors can indeed bring on your EML/CEL.
Now I'm left scratching my head a little wondering what to do next.

 

That is a strange one. Maybe the Brake system needs re calibrating after new pads fitted. I'll be honest though I can't get my head round why you should have errors after swapping pads out.

 

Update:
I managed to get the error to clear simply by charging the battery for 25-30mins (charger dropped down to float very quickly as battery was pretty much charged). Started the car up, errors gone and I can have the engine back on full power now! Happy days

Right the problem when changing pads in the quadrifoglio is it has BBW (brake by wire) system. When you push the pistons back in to accommodate the fresh pads is pushes too much fluid past sensors which the system interprets as a fluid leak and shuts the whole system down putting into a failsafe mode which is mechanical and only brakes 2 calipers (1 front, 1 rear in opposite corners).
People say you can get round this by having the battery disconnected the whole time you are doing the work however some people say that didnt work for them, so it seems a bit hit and miss. Anyway if you plan to do you own pads then have a good read up about the procedure first!
Disconnecting the battery creates its own problems too but they are apparently much much easier to solve.

Still not a clue why this alternator module thing got triggered but just happy to find a fix.

 

Disconnecting the battery does work. Important thing is after you change the pads and before you reconnect the battery, pump the brakes a few times until it goes hard. Connect the battery afterwards, start the engine, reset the steering angle sensor by turning full lock left and to right importantly on a level surface. The other errors will clear after a few engine start stop cycles and driving over 60mph. Remember to open the master reservoir cap loosely before commencing pushing the pistons back and close it before pumping the pedal. Worked for everyone I know who used this technique.

 

It's coming to something when you need a laptop to change brake pads lol! Makes sense though that the Brake by Wire system see a change in fluid and need resetting.

 

Mine had thrown up a P1DE0 code does anyone know what that means? Can’t find the answer anywhere? Cheers

 

I had the same issue with 2018 Quad. No DNA and engine light. A 30 minute charge on the Ctek and it solved the issue.