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Discussion Starter #1
The pads were picked up on my service last week and one of the discs was also badly scored in one place. Car has done nearly 30k so pads aren't unexpected, I understand that discs were a known issue but I didn't get anywhere useful with the dealer on that.

I've bought the discs and pads (dealer wanted over £500 to change these!). Does anyone know of a guide to changing these?

Last time I did discs and pads it was on my GTV and was pretty much:
  1. Loosen wheel nuts
  2. Jack car and place axle stand
  3. Remove wheel
  4. Remove upper and lower caliper bolts
  5. Remove pads
  6. Remove disc retaining screws
  7. Replace discs
  8. Grease sliding pins
  9. Push/screw in pistons
  10. Insert new pads
  11. Bolt caliper back together
  12. Wheel goes on
  13. Have a cup of tea
  14. Do other side
Is there anything else I need to put on the list (apart from frequent swearing)? I understand that the electronic parking brake needs to be put in to service mode first. I've got some other questions :
  1. Does anyone have torque figures for the bolts?
  2. I've never had an auto before and would normally leave the car in gear and put chocks under the wheels I'm not doing to stop it rolling (it shouldn't anyway because the ground is flat), does the transmission being in park stop the car rolling in the same way as being in gear stops a manual?
 

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  1. I've never had an auto before and would normally leave the car in gear and put chocks under the wheels I'm not doing to stop it rolling (it shouldn't anyway because the ground is flat), does the transmission being in park stop the car rolling in the same way as being in gear stops a manual?
2. Let's say yes. Don't know how exactly is made on ZF8 but there is on some automatic transmissions park gear and park pawl and when it is engaged it will not move... Maybe it is same principle on ZF8.
 

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The rear brake will need to put into maintenance mode in the Infotainment settings to disengage the e-parking brake (which uses the main brake caliper for parking, the QF has a separate caliper). I think @paulryan1234 did his own REAR brake change. I did the fronts which is fairly straight forward. I did have to bleed the brakes afterwards as the pedal was a bit spongy despite being careful but I got the dealer to do the bleeding during service for £70.

I have attached the official procedure for pads (2 versions from different sources but the same).

Also see this thread:
 

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And the brake torque figures. Don't know what they mean by caliper adaptor to knuckle, thought it was all one piece as in the caliper is directly mounted to the knuckle. I may be mistaken. Here it is anyway.
 

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@hyko , I am the Giulia guru ;) so you juust have to trust me......!


I took a short term paid subscription to Mopar Tech authority and downloaded what I thought would be useful a while ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Right, I've done one side!

Great fun.

I spent 45 minutes searching for the right size hex bit to undo the slide pin, I've just got in the bath and realised I've got an entire set in a cupboard somewhere.

Anyway the actual work was pretty straightforward, the only difficulty was finding the right size bit for the slide pin and getting the electronic hand brake plug to come off.

One minor annoyance is the caliper paint. Where the spring clip goes in it has started to flake off, looks like a bit of corrosion around the holes. Any ideas about a quick touch up I could do to stop it getting worse?
 

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Metalgod do you have a guide for the front pads, I've changed many of sets of pads over the years but never a set with the design of the caliper having the bridge between sides I'll be interested to read the proper guide.
 

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Metalgod do you have a guide for the front pads, I've changed many of sets of pads over the years but never a set with the design of the caliper having the bridge between sides I'll be interested to read the proper guide.
I do I think. Will check and post tomorrow. I have done the front pads and discs. Its is not too difficult.
 

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@JON156VELOCE here it it is for the fronts:

I did not remove/disconnect the wheel speed sensor at step 1 or disconnect the battery. I only just lightly loosened the reservoir cap while I pushed the piston in by fingers easily. I did have to get the dealer to bleed the system as it felt a little spongy despite being careful but I did have the reservoir cap completely off at one point maybe that allowed a little air into the system.

It tells you to tighten the 2 caliper retaining screws to ~11 daNm (110 NM), I feel this is a bit too high as they came out without much force. I used a small amount of medium strength blue loctite thread lock at the starting threads when I put them back in and tightened to ~50Nm + 20 degrees as per Post #4 torque figures I posted for since the calipers are bolted directly to the knuckle and I don't know what they mean by caliper adaptor! These bolts are quite long and have a lot of thread on them. They have been solid over the last 3 months. You will need a big T55 Torx bit which I had to purchase from Halfords.

Brake Caliper Adapter to Knuckle Bolts - Front - 50Nm Plus 20°
(rather than)
Brake Caliper to Caliper Adaptor Bolts - Front - 105 Nm

Also used high temperature ceramic grease at the back of the pads, shims and slide pins to keep everything good. Copper slip is not ideal and outdated.
Wheel bolts 120 Nm.

I actually referred to this as a guide:

My full post here:

For info to anyone interested:
The 2.0 and standard Giulias have a bridge which means you will need to remove the caliper off the disc while you carefully hold it without twisting the metal brake line and remove the pads/
The QF however has a bridge bolt on the front calipers which makes pad change easier as they can be extracted outwards once you remove the bridge bolt.
The QF also interestingly has the 2.0 Veloce front caliper fitted to the Rear so the pads are the same as fronts for the QF rears for those interested.
 

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Thanks, so the caliper does need to be lifted off, I thought it might, what a daft design, if they had made the bridge a bolt on it would make the pad change as easy as it is in all the other Brembo calipers, 10 minutes a side on my Brera and no risk of damaging the metal brake pipe ..

So is bleeding the brakes definatly a dealler only job or can it be done the conventional way.?
There no reason they would need to be bled if the pistons are just pushed back to change the pads but just good to know
 

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I know people on the US forum have done pads without bleeding the system being careful. I guess mine had absorbed some air over time. Plus I had left the reservoir cap slightly loose overnight as I changed discs as well and only managed one side by previous evening. Am sure you can bleed it from the caliper which has a bleed nipple.
 

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I did mine without bleeding front and back.
Don't forget the piston wind back tool for the rears
 

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I'm not sure if the rears are different on a veloce but mine didn't need winding back, they just pushed in.
Ah, my apologies, my Giulia is a 2.2 diesel
 

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Ah, my apologies, my Giulia is a 2.2 diesel
The rears are exactly the same design on all standard Giulias AFAIK. The QF rears have the same bridged 4 piston Brembo caliper fitted to Veloce fronts.
 

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The rears are exactly the same design on all standard Giulias AFAIK. The QF rears have the same bridged 4 piston Brembo caliper fitted to Veloce fronts.
Strange as I wound mine back. Maybe you can do both wind or push them back.
 

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I have never been able to push in the rear calipers on any Alfa I've owned, they have all needed a rewind tool. I could be wrong but sounds odd ?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have never been able to push in the rear calipers on any Alfa I've owned, they have all needed a rewind tool. I could be wrong but sounds odd ?
The guide that metalgod posted further up the page shows the rears being pushed in with a pneumatic tool.

I understood the winding of the rear calipers was related to the parking brake adjustment. The giulia has an electronic parking brake that activates the caliper/piston in the same way as pushing the pedal does (it looks like it has its on mini piston thing on it) so the main piston doesn't need that winding mechanism.
 
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