[Chris]

Well I`ve finished putting words to pictures on my recent change of all discs, pads and fluid. I`ve powerpoint slides of approx 1.5 MB and will be happy to submit it to AlfaOwner.com if a moderator can arrange for it to be posted somewhere. If bandwidth is tight then maybe a hosting site will take it?

In a nutshell I replaced the fronts with Black Diamond combi (grooved and drilled) with Ferodo DS2500 pads. The rears are Black Diamond grovved with Ferodo DS Perfomance pads. The fluid was relpaced with dot 5.1. I already had braided hoses.

The whole job cost just over £400 in parts and took about 6 hours. I suppose it could have been done faster but i wasn`t in that much of a hurry.

My brakes weren't that bad before but now are interesting to say the least! Initial braking is standard for the first second or so (until the pad warms up?) but then it gets progressively better and better. It takes a little getting used to as the efficiency improves without you having to press harder on the pedal, but once you get the hang of it and know when to press harder or not this is a seriously good setup for fast road. The car stops amazingly quickly and I often end up stopping way to soon.

Taking people out on roundabaouts just went up to a whole new level

Now if I can just find that coppaslip as one of the pads is squeaking....

 

[Roswell]

Nice one Chris. I have a tub of Copper Slip you can borrow if you like.

 

[Chris]

Nice one Chris. I have a tub of Copper Slip you can borrow if you like.

Sounds like I`m on a promise

 

[Chris]

I`ve suceeded in exporting my brake change slides from powerpoint to seperate jpgs. If anyone would like a set of 18 jpg images on how to change front and rear 16 brakes, just PM me your email address.

Its about 1MB in total.

 

[Old Engineer]

Did my rear pads today (3 weeks after the fronts at 42,000 miles).
I didn't buy the caliper wind off tool but it went very easily...
1) I did slacken off the handbrake cable with the a 13mm spanner under the lever (but don't go to far as you waist time retrieving the nut).
2) This gave enough slack to slip the cable end out of caliper lever by just easing the pressure with a larger screw driver.
3) The sliding bolt fixings don't look obvious until you realise that the nuts are just squeezing the 'ears' of the caliper.
4) Once the unit is unclamped it can be levered out and will rest on the remaining collar.
5) I used a g-clamp and a pair of pipe pliers. Tighten the g-clamp and use the pliers to turn the piston clock wise. Movement is about an eighth of a turn followed by re-tensioning the g-clamp. I was suprised how little I had to turn (about 10 of the above actions)
6) Remembered to get a syringe from Boots (32p) and took out the excess fluid at this point.
7) Copper slipped the pads and slipped the caliper back over them.
8) You have to push against the pad springs to get the sliding bolts back in.
9) repeat on the other side and then retension the handbrake
All done in under 1 hour!

 

[kgb]

Some photos if what i did...how to "push back" rotate clockwise using

http://kgb.alfaromeo-bg.com/Others/RearCalip.jpg

or but be carful not to demage

http://kgb.alfaromeo-bg.com/Others/rearCalip2.jpg

 

[Pasi]

You can email me the file, and I can host it!

PM me for my email